Spencer Rebuild

[mooncoon]

I have finally finished rebuilding a Spencer rifle that I received in relic condition. I will take it to the range on Friday to try out although the bore is pretty rough and mostly I just want to say that I was able to shoot it. It did throw a few surprises at me --- the magazine runs diagonally through the butt (lengthwise) and my first attempt at drilling the hole was a bit sloppy. I used a jig to guide the drill which worked well but I made a piloted high speed drill to drill the full size hole and that was a mistake. I had to withdraw the drill at regular intervals to remove sawdust with the result that the beginning of the hole became quite a bit oversize. Also I made the mistake of thinking the stock was symetrical which it is not. The magazine takes up enough room that the lock and stock are offset to the right by a moderate amount. Result was I ended up making a second butt stock. I used an undersize high speed drill first to drill close to the final diameter then made up an extended twist drill for the finish dimension (worked well) and again used a drilling jig.

cheers mooncoon

 

[smellie]

Oh, my!

VERY nice toy!

Sure wish somebody would throw something like that out in MY garbage!

What are you doing as far as ammo is concerned? IIRC, these were rimfires as made, or is this one of the US military .50-70 conversions? I have seen a couple, but only on Carbines. Manitoba Prison Service used them at one time.

BTW, really like your new logo!
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[buffdog]

Spencer rebuild

As SMELLIE said, "Very Nice!" You can be proud of that one.

Drilling a fairly straight deep hole in wood can be difficult, especially if you use an ordinary drill bit designed for harder surfaces. There are wood bits available, either the "Speedbore" type, or a higher grade that is shaped like a regular twist drill, but ground different.

One of the best ways is to use a floor model drill press, where you have some length to play with. You put a long bit into the drill chuck, and bring the table up to it. Make up a bolt with a point on it, and some large washers. You put the bolt through the hole in the drill press table, and align the points. Then you use a center punch to put an indentation on the stock where you want to start, and at the other end where you want to end up.

By putting the finish end on the point of the bolt at the bottom, and running the drill downwards from the top, the holes will come out right as the bottom of the stock is supported and lined up. It is best to put a piece of masking tape on the drill for a stop marker, about one inch short of the bottom end of the stock, as you do not want to drill into the pointed bolt and ruin a drill bit. When you get it almost drilled through, then take the bolt out of the table, and drill the remaining one inch.

Again, a great job. You might try finding ammo on the Internet. I believe that some 56 Spencer cartridges were made up a while ago.

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[mooncoon]

What are you doing as far as ammo is concerned? IIRC, these were rimfires as made, or is this one of the US military .50-70 conversions?
.

I used to own a carbine and made a mold to suit it. Also made a single cartridge and primitive reloading dies so that I could load at the range and use a 22 blank as a primer. I will use that set up for this gun. This gun actually belongs to the Nanaimo Military Museum and will probably go on display after Friday. The curator and I will try it out at the local range then clean it and return it to its permanent home. I have a former rifle of my own that some meat head shortened to about 1/2" less than carbine length. I was able to use that one for the shape of the butt stock and shape of the springs holding the barrel bands and a couple of other parts.
If you look at the photo of the gun's original condition, you will notice that the actual breach face is a separate insert and it should not be difficult to make a replacement that can be dropped in and with a centerfire firing pin. I am thinking similar to the Peabody method with the pin making a dog's leg near the front of the piece. If you hunt through my other posts for the one on the Peabody you will see a photo of what I am talking about.

cheers mooncoon

 

[mooncoon]

Drilling a fairly straight deep hole in wood can be difficult, especially if you use an ordinary drill bit designed for harder surfaces.
.

Below are photos of the drilling jig. I started with an extended 3/8" drill as a pilot then a piloted home made high speed drill (fly swatter type) to 3/4" and finally an extended 7/8" twist bit. The wood was lined up by using a temporary center at the destination and a shallow 3/8" hole at the beginning then fastening the butt to the jig with screws and clamping the wood to the base of the jig. The hole came out within less than 1/8" of its intended destination.
Very slow drilling with the high speed drill because it was all end grain and did not cut well. I have little doubt that the same drill would go quickly and easily when drilling cross grain.

After looking at the jig photos, I feel compelled to add that a clean work bench is a sign of a disturbed mind :>) :>)

 

[smellie]

Your workbench is no worse than Harry Pope`s shop. He knew a few things, too.

Still think it`s beautiful work.

You really have done something to be proud of.
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[Steppenwolf]

Great work MC, Is that the fore stock from the Rolling Block?

 

[gabrielguitars]

Ummm . . . that bench IS clean, in my mind, anyways! BTW, I hate talented people, especially those with motivation!!! Seriously Mooncoon, you rock! I really, really appreciate people that are not willing to give up on old guns, they deserve to live and kill again. Thank you for keeping the faith!

 

[y2k]

VERY Impressive. Keep us informed.

 

[mooncoon]

Great work MC, Is that the fore stock from the Rolling Block?

No --- a thousand curses :>) The rolling block forend was slightly thinner so the barrel bands would not fit and also the retaining springs were on the side while on the Spencer, the bands are on the bottom. I am just as happy in the long run though because the Spencer forestock also has a sort of hump down where it joins the frame.
The mainspring was also fussy to make because the upper leg runs just about even with the top of the lock plate. It has to be made fairly thick towards the back or point of the V or the spring will bulge up above the lockplate when you #### the gun. That also led to taking two tries :>(

cheers mooncoon