Spine splitting saws

John Y Cannuck

John Y Cannuck

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The Conservative part of Ontario
We used a sawsall last year, that was OK, but slow.
Tried a chainsaw, fast, but major mess
This year, we used a small Stanley saw like this:
S_15334_72dpi_webmax.jpg


It was much faster than the sawsall, and nearly as fast as the chainsaw. Clean neat controllable cut as well.
 
John Y Cannuck, The only moose I saw a saw used on... They used a "take down" saw, the one that folds back into it's tube handle... Worked okay...

Cheers
Jay
 
18v recip saw (sawsall?) works great. very quick. little mess. use a 12" pruning blade.

a sharp hatchet and a rock works well too :D

did 3 moose this fall with a hand saw. I'll take the recip if I have the choice :D
 
I carry a Estwing stainless axe, works great, not as fast as a saw but a lot less small bone chips to clean up and it won't gum up with meat or fat.
 
this year we had to quarter the moose on the spot....doing this ive found that using the inside of the cavitity as a guide for the saw (electric chain saw)...you can follow the spine with ease to make a great cut
i only used enough of the blade to cut through the bone...the rest was done with a knife...
it was slick as could be.... :D
 
Gatehouse said:
The key to using a sawzall is the blade selection. You want a coarse tooth blade, not a fine blade.
Click to expand...
Those saws work great for splitting moose, deer or beef. :!:

I fillet mine, so the spine does not get split. Much nicer end result :D

SC...............
 
SuperCub said:
Gatehouse said:
The key to using a sawzall is the blade selection. You want a coarse tooth blade, not a fine blade.
Click to expand...
Those saws work great for splitting moose, deer or beef. :!:

I fillet mine, so the spine does not get split. Much nicer end result :D

SC...............
Click to expand...

Actually, I do the same. Irarely cut bone wiht a saw exceptt o remove hoofs/paws. I have spit animals with chansaws and sawzalls, though.

But usually, I use a knife.

I can take apart a most animals with a knife pretty quick, as I am a chef with a good background in it. Supercub, as an ex-meatcutter, could do the same, I'm sure he knows what I mean.

BOning out a deer on a mountina takies me about 40 minutes after the pics are taken.... :wink:
 
Gatehouse said:
SuperCub said:
Gatehouse said:
The key to using a sawzall is the blade selection. You want a coarse tooth blade, not a fine blade.
Click to expand...
Those saws work great for splitting moose, deer or beef. :!:

I fillet mine, so the spine does not get split. Much nicer end result :D

SC...............
Click to expand...

Actually, I do the same. Irarely cut bone wiht a saw exceptt o remove hoofs/paws. I have spit animals with chansaws and sawzalls, though.

But usually, I use a knife.

I can take apart a most animals with a knife pretty quick, as I am a chef with a good background in it. Supercub, as an ex-meatcutter, could do the same, I'm sure he knows what I mean.

BOning out a deer on a mountina takies me about 40 minutes after the pics are taken.... :wink:
Click to expand...
So, when you guys talk about filleting, can you describe that process in a bit more detail?
 
Well the backbine holds the striploin together with the haunch and shoulder..

I generally remove the haunch in as big pieces as I want (you can take out small to medium roasts from the hind, wether it is deer or mooose)

Then you run the knife up the backbonbe and along where the ribs join, and you have the striploin or "backstrap"

Cut off the shoulders, and you have a butchered animal- and you can break it down from there....

If I shoot a deer in the hills, I gut it (although not neccesarily neccesary) and then skin it, rilling oit ov er onto the skin as applicable.

Tehn I carve off a rear end, bone it out, remove the striploin and the tenderloins remove the shouder, bone it out, and then do the other side.

I will remove the neck meat, too.
 
In this province there is the matter of tags. They must be affixed at the kill site, and transported with the animal. That eliminated much of the possibility for boning out.
I suppose you could bone out all but one quarter. That being the quarter with the ### organs and tag attached. :roll:

Two axes work quite well for spine plitting too. We've used that several times. Use one for the wedge, and the other for the hammer.
 
this year we had to quarter the moose on the spot....doing this ive found that using the inside of the cavitity as a guide for the saw (electric chain saw)...
Click to expand...

Thats one heck of a long extension cord if you had to quarter it on the spot with an electric chainsaw :?: . Do they make them battery powered now?

I have been told the battery powered sawsall won't do a whole moose. I agree with the others the recip. saw 12-14 inch pruning blade is best but they do break easier than the fine tooth wrecking blades. Still better that the axe though, no sharp bones to get cut on, our butcher really likes it.
 
Kenny_G2 said:
this year we had to quarter the moose on the spot....doing this ive found that using the inside of the cavitity as a guide for the saw (electric chain saw)...
Click to expand...

Thats one heck of a long extension cord if you had to quarter it on the spot with an electric chainsaw :?: . Do they make them battery powered now?

I have been told the battery powered sawsall won't do a whole moose. I agree with the others the recip. saw 12-14 inch pruning blade is best but they do break easier than the fine tooth wrecking blades. Still better that the axe though, no sharp bones to get cut on, our butcher really likes it.
Click to expand...

no long extension cord...brought in the portable generator :wink:
 
A meatcutter friend of mine here in SJ cuts meat in the fall as a side line business.

This year he cut 14,000lbs of moose, all split with w/a reciprocating saw, plus deer and beef as well. Buy good blades and it works great :!:

SC.....................
 
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