"Broken shell" removers were invented not long after cartridges came out and people started to reload. Then they were not used much after reloaders discovered the cause of a separated case... now they seem to be making a comeback with many new reloaders getting into it... and I suspect they will sort of die off again when more people discover what causes case separations and incorporate changes in their reloading.
Split Case Removal
- Thread starter wyleekyotee
- Start date
wyleekyotee
Member
- Location
- Nova Scotia
I am truely facinated to see how my invention of a broken sheel extractor has been copied by both Brownell and Numrich Arms.
My original invention, the broken shell extractor, as posted in these page few years ago, was much simpler. Just a metal rod, with a hook filed at the end, and it was very easy to "feel" when the hook come over the libs of the broken shell, and then with a gentle pull, the hook would pull the broken sheel out.
I recommend to use brass of bronze metal rod for making you own broken shell extraxtor, which will, unlike the cocpies made by Brownell and Numrich Arms, can and will only fit certain calibers. The Numrich Arms copy of my broken shell extractor, appears to be more useful for more than one caliber ?
For these two companies to copy my broken shell extractor, and then produce different broken shell extractors, one for each different caliber, is no more than good marketing $$. A simple and cheap metal rod in which you file a hook at the end, as well as file and taper towards the hook, will be as effective in removing broken shells from the chamber, as well as being able to be used on most caliber with ease
How about a picture. I think I understand, but if I could see it, I'd have an easier time of making my own.
Thanks, sounds like a great idea.
the bore brush, lead bullet tapped from the muzzle end, and the case extractors are the best idea's. none should damage your bore or chamber, these ones using bolts and screws if your not absolutly sure of what your going, you could really damage your chamber or the bore of your gun.
wyleekeotee, I still do not know how to add pictures to these fine pages, but I understand how to create your own broken shell extractor.
A thin bronze or brass rod from Canadian Tire makes a fine broken shell extractor as described earlier.
You can easily "feel" when the hook at the end of this home made broken shell extractor go over the lib of the broken shell, and then a gentle pull will remove the broken shell. Try with some trial and error, and you will find that it is very easy to make your own roken shell extractor, that will fit most, if not all the calibers you own
Also, I was delighted to share with the other gunnutz, several of them real authorities in the and very experienced in the use and the history of the Lee-Enfield rifles, about my "rediscovery" of the "controlled feed" of the Lee-Enfield rifles, which I consider to be superior to the Mauser "controlled feed" system, as well as the two system of ejection system of the Lee-Enfield rifles, in which the ejector screw is only engaged, when a live round is extracted from the chamber. The spend round is ejected solely by the ejector hook spring, when rim of the cartridge reaches the cutout along the raceway.
I also suspect that the Lee-Enfield rifles "controlled feed" systems, predates that of Mausers, and thus inspired Mauser to create the famous "Mauser controlled feed" system ?
One day, I will learn to post pictures in these fine pages
A thin bronze or brass rod from Canadian Tire makes a fine broken shell extractor as described earlier.
You can easily "feel" when the hook at the end of this home made broken shell extractor go over the lib of the broken shell, and then a gentle pull will remove the broken shell. Try with some trial and error, and you will find that it is very easy to make your own roken shell extractor, that will fit most, if not all the calibers you own
Also, I was delighted to share with the other gunnutz, several of them real authorities in the and very experienced in the use and the history of the Lee-Enfield rifles, about my "rediscovery" of the "controlled feed" of the Lee-Enfield rifles, which I consider to be superior to the Mauser "controlled feed" system, as well as the two system of ejection system of the Lee-Enfield rifles, in which the ejector screw is only engaged, when a live round is extracted from the chamber. The spend round is ejected solely by the ejector hook spring, when rim of the cartridge reaches the cutout along the raceway.
I also suspect that the Lee-Enfield rifles "controlled feed" systems, predates that of Mausers, and thus inspired Mauser to create the famous "Mauser controlled feed" system ?
One day, I will learn to post pictures in these fine pages
There have been times I have seen separated cases that were jammed in the chamber very solid.
If your hook type extractor, reversed brush and a lead bullet down the bore all fail to extract the separated case try this method. It has never failed me.
Stuff a very tight cleaning patch into the neck of the case. Run a heavily oiled patch down the bore up tight to this patch in the neck and leave it there. Clean the inside of the case with a split dowel and abrasive wrapped on it.. carefully place epoxy inside the separated case spreading it around on the inside wall. Let this epoxy cure while the bore is pointing straight down. Then simply drive the case out with a rod. I have also done this with soft solder. That is a bit trickier to do. You don't want the flux to foam up onto the metal and solder the case into the chamber...
If your hook type extractor, reversed brush and a lead bullet down the bore all fail to extract the separated case try this method. It has never failed me.
Stuff a very tight cleaning patch into the neck of the case. Run a heavily oiled patch down the bore up tight to this patch in the neck and leave it there. Clean the inside of the case with a split dowel and abrasive wrapped on it.. carefully place epoxy inside the separated case spreading it around on the inside wall. Let this epoxy cure while the bore is pointing straight down. Then simply drive the case out with a rod. I have also done this with soft solder. That is a bit trickier to do. You don't want the flux to foam up onto the metal and solder the case into the chamber...
My father has a .30-30 that went through the Depression, and clearly had someone, who borrowed the rifle, dig out a case with something hard. The neck has a clear gouge to this day, which often interferes with case extraction after firing. For that reason, I would not use a file or anything similar to dig out the case.
I have removed several separated cases from my rifles. Firstly, I make sure that I spray some type of penetrating oil to get between the case and the barrel steel (WD 40, Break Free). Then I try a full size or slightly oversize brass brush. You can try from the muzzle, or push in from the breech end and pull back (I know, not recommended but it will grip things). If that doesn't work, then I take a lead ball or lead bullet and push it down from the muzzle, as described above. That always works.
The potential for damage from a file!!! or other metal object (screwdriver!!) is high. Brass could be OK, but the above works for me.
I have removed several separated cases from my rifles. Firstly, I make sure that I spray some type of penetrating oil to get between the case and the barrel steel (WD 40, Break Free). Then I try a full size or slightly oversize brass brush. You can try from the muzzle, or push in from the breech end and pull back (I know, not recommended but it will grip things). If that doesn't work, then I take a lead ball or lead bullet and push it down from the muzzle, as described above. That always works.
The potential for damage from a file!!! or other metal object (screwdriver!!) is high. Brass could be OK, but the above works for me.
I am truely facinated to see how my invention of a broken sheel extractor has been copied by both Brownell and Numrich Arms.
My original invention, the broken shell extractor, as posted in these page few years ago, was much simpler. Just a metal rod, with a hook filed at the end, and it was very easy to "feel" when the hook come over the libs of the broken shell, and then with a gentle pull, the hook would pull the broken sheel out.
I recommend to use brass of bronze metal rod for making you own broken shell extraxtor, which will, unlike the cocpies made by Brownell and Numrich Arms, can and will only fit certain calibers. The Numrich Arms copy of my broken shell extractor, appears to be more useful for more than one caliber ?
For these two companies to copy my broken shell extractor, and then produce different broken shell extractors, one for each different caliber, is no more than good marketing $$. A simple and cheap metal rod in which you file a hook at the end, as well as file and taper towards the hook, will be as effective in removing broken shells from the chamber, as well as being able to be used on most caliber with ease
Love to see some picts or you extractor. The extractors from Brownell and Numrich Arms are copies of the US and Brit WWII extractors.
If you read and look at the Brownell and Numrich arms broken shell extractor, you will find that they both are using hooks that goes over the libs of libs of the broken case, and then a gentle pull, will then extract the broken shell.
The british 303 caliber broken shell extractor is very different, since it uses pressure on the inside of the wall of the broken shell to extract it from the chamber.
Until I came up my invention of the broken shell extractor, that uses a hook which goes over the libs of the broken shell, and posted it few years ago in these and Gundboards Forums, that form of broken shell did not exist.
Also, I am no mood to discuss with you, about the legimacy of my creations and intellectual properties, that because of it simplicity and functions is near impossible to patent or protect, and consider this case closed.
Just take it for what is is, or buy one of the old british broken shell extractor or Brownell's or Numrich Arms copies of my invention, or feel free to make one yourself as decribed earlier
Cheers,
Snowhunter
The british 303 caliber broken shell extractor is very different, since it uses pressure on the inside of the wall of the broken shell to extract it from the chamber.
Until I came up my invention of the broken shell extractor, that uses a hook which goes over the libs of the broken shell, and posted it few years ago in these and Gundboards Forums, that form of broken shell did not exist.
Also, I am no mood to discuss with you, about the legimacy of my creations and intellectual properties, that because of it simplicity and functions is near impossible to patent or protect, and consider this case closed.
Just take it for what is is, or buy one of the old british broken shell extractor or Brownell's or Numrich Arms copies of my invention, or feel free to make one yourself as decribed earlier
Cheers,
Snowhunter
wyleekyotee
Member
- Location
- Nova Scotia
I just thought I'd follow up. I had a pretty good picture in my head of what snow hunter ws getting at - so I bought a brass rod and went at it with the mini-grinder. Here is a picture of what i created:
Certainly not a work of art - but effective That's the broken case I removed with it. It takes a little tinkering - I had to push the remover against the side of the chamber and 'feel' for it - but still it only took me a few seconds to get it out. Great device! Thanks for the idea man!
Brass rod - $9
Labour - About 1 minute with a mini-grinder
Certainly not a work of art - but effective That's the broken case I removed with it. It takes a little tinkering - I had to push the remover against the side of the chamber and 'feel' for it - but still it only took me a few seconds to get it out. Great device! Thanks for the idea man!
Brass rod - $9
Labour - About 1 minute with a mini-grinder
