Splitting stock - Glue gurus?

nelly

nelly

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G'day,

I have an EAL that I am trying to stick new wood on, to protect the original stock pieces from harm.

I have a sportered beech no4 fore-end, that has a slight split in the forward end... The wood is otherwise in really nice shape (albeit already hacked down), so I was thinking of trying to inlet to put a butt swivel in the fore-end, like the issued EAL fore-end.

The split is about 3/4" on the outside of the wood, and about 1 1/4" on the barrel channel, with the outside spreading just very slightly. I wonder as to the recommended glue that will penetrate deep into this crack, yet be sturdy enough when dry to survive future stain / BLO, whatever. I can't see there being much recoil effect where the split is located (right at the forward end of the shortened fore-end), but with the sling swivel just behind it, I do want to make sure the wood is as stable as possible.

Gurus: Please guide me!

Cheers,

Neal
 
Of the fews stocks i have fixed, regular carpenter glue worked fine. I have used syringue to inject glue into deep crack and so far, glue seems to resist stain and oil finish. Hope that help:)
Jocelyn
 
If you use carpenters glue, which should be OK on this non- stressed area, make sure the crack is well de-oiled. Flush the crack with any of acetone, laquer thinner or methyl hydrate and let dry before glueing.

Tough to say w/o looking at the piece, but another alternative is to degrease/de-oil the inside of the stock and apply gorrila glue or an epoxy which will penetrate the crack better than carpenters glue. A heat gun will also help these glues penetrate the crack better.
 
I am going to be the odd man out here

go with a thin epoxy and clamp the snot out of it. The 5 minute kind is convenient but can be a pain when it starts to kick too fast in warm conditions go with the 20 minute. All you need to know for adhesives is the holy trinity of bonding CLEAN, DRY, and CLAMPED. good luck.
 
If the gap won't close under moderate clamping pressure, then regular carpenter's glue or those foaming polyurethane glues won't work that great since they aren't designed to span gaps. Epoxy will span gaps and will hold very well as long as the area is clean.

For carpenter's glue you'll want an exterior version like Titebond III. Regular carpenter's glue will dissolve in water.
 
IF the wood is clean and not oil contaminated, use Titebond III. Apply a bead over the crack, and suck it through with a shop vac nozzle on the other side of the crack. Clamp, release, repeat (disperses the glue). Re clamp, do NOT remove squeeze out (wiat until it gells, then remove with a razor blade). Aloow to set for 120 min, remove clamps,you are good to go.

If the wood is oil contaminated, flush out the crack with non-chlorinated brake cleaner, use standard 20 min. epoxy mixed and then warmed with a heat gun (makes it 3-4X more viscous) and glue following the instructions above. (only you will have to remove squeeze out with sanding)

WW
 
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