SPR Build: Barrel Choice

chrisward3

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Ottawa, ON
Looking for some insight.

Building an SPR and need to decide between a few things with regards to the barrel.

18" or 20" and why

What twist? (ill mostly be shooting 55gr PMC or AE)

Stainless Steel or Steel?

Is it worth my time (and money) to buy a barrel blank and have it finished or fluted?

May have other questions popping up throughout the course of this so check back to this thread often!

Cheers
 
The first thing that pops up in my mind - if you are only shooting 55gr PMC and AE , you really do not need to spend the extra dough on a real match grade SPR barrel. You may as well just buy a regular 20" barrel. Just shave the FSB and put on the FF handguard.
 
If it were me, I would start with a nice 18" SS 1/7 twist barrel (Noveske, White Oak etc) and assemble from there. The FF rail system, upper, lower, stock etc. is all personal preference.

If you are on a budget, take GT's advise and try to find a nice 20" upper...I'd still stay with the 1/7 twist...in case you ever want to load heavier rounds in the future.
 
IF you just want to shoot 55s, I am assuming that you are shooting close range. I would stay with a shorter barrel if I were you.

If you want to go all SPR, get a krieger DCM, or a white oak(SDM, or SPR) in a 7.7 twist, and shoot 69, or 77gr tips.

Honestly though, you may be splitting hares over the 16 inch you have for sale.
 
I'd go with a 18" SS. For what you want to shoot 1:9 would do. But if you want more impact at longer ranges (heavier bullets) you'll need 1:8 or 1:7. For the chamber, you can get .223, 5.56 or wylde. In a nut shell .223 is thighter than 5.56 (at the shoulder) and the wylde is kind of an in between. Your pick.
 
Depends what your intentions are for this . If you are looking for a SPR clone such as a MK12Mo0 or Mod1 then your budget is pretty high anyways.

It boils down to what you can get your hands on. I have used Noveske SPR ( it has the correct profile and shoulder for the OPS Inc brake , and uses a unique Intermediate length gas system ) . These are built on Pac Nor polygon blanks. This is my first choice. 2nd would be a WOA . Used a SS Saber before. Good results but pricy for what you are getting.

WOA is a good choice for less money than Noveske, but harder to find in Canada. You can get Kreiger / Shilen / Saber Defense through Brownells.

BTW - not worth getting a blank and having someone turn down and install barrel extention / gas port etc. There are so many good choices ready to go

If you just want a heavy barrel profile then to punch holes in paper, then you can save yourself lots of money buy just buying a RRA Varmint . The one had was freakishly accurate with all bullet weights.

Lastly, further to Greentips comment, if you want a SPR type upper for bench shooting they you shouldn't be feeding it 55Gr PMC etc. Buy yourself a loading press and stock up on 69 and 77gr Sierra Match Kings
 
Poor hares!! PITA is going to come after you!

PETA. People for the Everywhere Tasting of Animals.

at what range does it make sense to go with a barrel longer than 16 inches?
At whatever distance you stop shooting from unsupported positions, and shoot benchrest.

Shooting off a mag, I shoot my 20 inch better then I shoot my 16inch HBAR. Shooting both off a bipod, they are pretty close to each other. Once the mag comes off the ground, the 16 inch seems to work better. That could simply be because the 20 inch has a better trigger though.
 
I can offer match barrels from Shilen and now McGowen. Both will have 223 Wylde chambers and with good quality bores, should shoot very well. Other chambers may be possible.

McGowen can come complete with the barrel extension installed. Min is 16". Max is whatever you want.

Likely the cost of a prefit is less then a blank, contouring and install. Plus you have the advantage of a prefit to have the barrel stress relieved after contouring.

CM can be blued. SS cannot. Either shoot well, CM is always less money and some say more durable. I have shot them both in bolt rifles and equal quality barrels shoot with the same level of performance.

Barrel length has more to do with velocity then accuracy. Pushing a match bullet as fast as possible will help with LR ballistics.

In a 223, 20" is a min for getting as much out of the case as possible. 26" is ideal. Of course, that is not normal fare in an AR so 18 and 20" are nice compromises.

If your goal is sustained accuracy over a clip or two, best to go with a heavier contour barrel. There are a number made popular by Camp Perry style shooting. They will still accept conventional accessories but the extra ' meat' keep the barrels from warping thus shooting their best.

Properly stress relieved barrels will help alot in this regard. I am unfamiliar with some of the AR specific brands but the quality barrels from the target shooting world are all stress relieved.

Fluting is more cosmetic then accuracy enhancing. About the only thing it does do is reduce the mass of the barrel. However, proper contouring will do the same job and not run the risk of inducing stress in the barrel.

If only shooting 55's, 12 twist is all you need BUT I would still suggest a 9 so that you can run common ammo later. The 55's will not care about going through a 9 twist.

The big issue to getting the most from any rifle is the chamber and how it is shaped to the ammo shot. If your goal is to get the most out of light weight bullets, chambering in a standard 223 SAAMI chamber will be the best.

However, the shorter throat will raise pressure issues if you decide to run NATO ammo with heavier bullets.

Chambers like the Wylde have longer throats but not as long as the NATO 5.56 so many shooters are getting excellent accuracy AND proper functioning. It definitely suits the heavier slugs but is likely on the long side for the light bullets.

If you can handload, you will be miles ahead as you can tune the ammo/bullet to the barrel harmonics for best performance AND you can use a shorter throat to maximize accuracy.

Jerry
 
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