spray case lubes

KDX said:
I just tried the Redding/Imperial sizing wax and really like it. A little on your fingers goes a long way and you have to handle the cases to put them in the press anyway. I think it was around $8 at WSS.
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Me too. I'm good for about a tin a year, but that would be a lifetime's worth for a "normal" person.
 
Rottboy_8 said:
This is what I use:
BRASS SPRAY LUBE FORMULA _ 1 part liquid lanolin and 4 to 5 parts parts 99% isopropyl alcohol. Do not get alcohol less than 99%.
Pure Liquid Lanolin mixes better if you warm both the alcohol and lanolin in a bath of warm water to about 105 - 110 degrees F before mixing. DO NOT WARM EITHER OF THEM OVER AN OPEN FLAME! When warm, pour together, mix thoroughly, allow the mix to cool (mix occasionally as it cools) and store in an air tight container to prevent water from being absorbed by the isopropyl.

Am using this formula with perfect results for my .223 & .308 brass. Its extremely economical and effective. Happy re-loading!!!
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+2 - Identical to what Dillon sells.
Mix 100 ml of liquid lanolin with 500 ml of 99% rubbing alcohol and voila.
I buy my lanolin from a local health store for about $10 per 100 mls.
 
Lloyds Loobit...get it at Prrincess Auto. A can is 10 bucks and I've got over 5000 cases on my first can and it's still going strong. Dump the cases in a plastic container and give two or three shrt sprays. Tumble them arond. Stuff works awesome...oh and it's non-toxic too.
 
Petrock said:
Now do you guys tumble before or after all these home brews are applied?
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fogducker said:
im looking for after a after tumble lube..just before you resize lube
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Here's the brass process I use:
- sort brass into your own groups then tumble
- After tumbling, as I have previously set them aside per the specific rifle(s) they are fired from, these "form-fired" brass skip spray lube plus the sizing die and go through a Lee Collet die (which just does the neck, minimizes brass stress and trimming). Usually do this around 5-8'xs before letting them go back through a sizing die.
- Spray lube all remaining brass and proceed to SIZE
- Measure, trim, deburr all brass above as needed.
- Clean primer pockets
- Brass is now ready for loading. Wiping off any spray lube is not necessary as lanolin/alcohol will not contaminate powder nor primer. If you want the finished bullets to look better than factory and have no lube residue, make them go through a tumber for about an hour.
Happy shooting fellows!!!! :canadaFlag::ar15:
 
Rottboy_8 said:
If you want the finished bullets to look better than factory and have no lube residue, make them go through a tumber for about an hour.
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that's bad advice Rottboy. Some powders are coated in graphite in order to lower the burning speed. When the case is less than full, tumbling, especially the vibrating kind, cleans the graphite coating from the powder kernels turning the powder into a faster one.
 
legi0n said:
that's bad advice Rottboy.................cleans the graphite coating from the powder kernels turning the powder into a faster one.
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Point well taken. Never knew about the implications to graphite coating deterioration.
Have been tumbling some of my finished bullets over the last 2 decades with no ill effects on performance (so far). Time to reassess this practise???

Great info! Happy shooting!!!!:canadaFlag::ar15:
 
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