Spray on coatings coverage.
- Thread starter dead meat
- Start date
Well this thread created a lot of discussion. I take it that nobody has tried to spray coat a complete action and by that i mean in the inside not just an outside coating. I think it would be difficult to get decent coverage in the lug locking area without removing the barrel, action i`m contemplating doing is bare ie no blueing. If i have to blue first not much reason to use another on top unless you just want to colour it.
In answer to your question, I have tried a couple of guns but I have not done the interior .
As the makers state " preparation is the key to a proper job ". How true that is.
Unless one has access to sandblasting equipment ( or something similar ) that can can do the areas to be coated and then after, REALLY clean the metal , it will peel off in a short time.
As the makers state " preparation is the key to a proper job ". How true that is.
Unless one has access to sandblasting equipment ( or something similar ) that can can do the areas to be coated and then after, REALLY clean the metal , it will peel off in a short time.
Pretty sure you don't want to coat the locking lug areas of your rifle. Tolerances in these areas are quite close, and you must be careful not to get too tight. - dan
Well Dan that was just an example of what i meant of internal, lots of area to cover that spraying would be difficult to get at. Blueing doesn`t add to any dimensional change but i wouldn`t want the interior left bare metal either. May have to just go at it, can always strip it down again if i`m not happy.
I've used kg gunkote and nic cerakote on several front lug bolt rifles.
With a good airbrush and some practice, you can 'fog' into the breech area and get surprisingly good coverage. I've popped a barrel off and looked. I do it last, thin a bit with mek or acetone, turn the air down, and take my time.
Gunkote is thinner than cerakote (0.35 mil vs 1 mil), and is also slipperier and I've had no issues when coating absolutely everything, though these are not super close tolerance actions like nesikas or bats.
I have some duracote and armacote I bought for non-bake parts but can't really comment on them yet
With a good airbrush and some practice, you can 'fog' into the breech area and get surprisingly good coverage. I've popped a barrel off and looked. I do it last, thin a bit with mek or acetone, turn the air down, and take my time.
Gunkote is thinner than cerakote (0.35 mil vs 1 mil), and is also slipperier and I've had no issues when coating absolutely everything, though these are not super close tolerance actions like nesikas or bats.
I have some duracote and armacote I bought for non-bake parts but can't really comment on them yet
I've done plenty of duracoat work and I wouldn't recommend trying to airbrush the tight parts of the internals.
It will end up scraping off anyway.
Are you looking to do this from an aesthetic or protective reason.
If you are planning to do it for protective purposes then I strongly recommend either bluing or parkerizing the action first, then painting the visual parts of the action.
PLUS, the bonus of that is that duracoat and other coatings adhere way better to parkerized surfaces than without. It would be an excellent combination that would last you for a looooong time.
It will end up scraping off anyway.
Are you looking to do this from an aesthetic or protective reason.
If you are planning to do it for protective purposes then I strongly recommend either bluing or parkerizing the action first, then painting the visual parts of the action.
PLUS, the bonus of that is that duracoat and other coatings adhere way better to parkerized surfaces than without. It would be an excellent combination that would last you for a looooong time.
I've gun koted a few bolts from bolt action rifles and it didn't affect the tolerance but also rubbed off quickly anywhere it contacted the receiver..
when I do a shotgun receiver I will do the inside of the receiver.
Rifles..I don't do...I fill the receiver and chamber area with putty before I blast it.
I've done some extremely rusty guns and I've yet to see any with a receiver that was rusted inside.
IMHO..I wouldn't bother.
when I do a shotgun receiver I will do the inside of the receiver.
Rifles..I don't do...I fill the receiver and chamber area with putty before I blast it.
I've done some extremely rusty guns and I've yet to see any with a receiver that was rusted inside.
IMHO..I wouldn't bother.
