Spring Tension (I know I will be getting blasted here)

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skrypnyk

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OK,

So I got this Para-Ordnance 1911 Nite-Tac as a TF1-08 Tour Memory, nice tan, stamped blah blah. ect. So here I am, a Huge Pussy, I hate cocking this thing. Its heavy, like stupid heavy to ####. I cant do one handed cocks, If its the least bit wet I have to reverse overhand ####.

I had an old used Colt that was so beautiful, it was so light, I could breath and it would ####, and never a stoppage to be had!

So here I am staring at this pistol, spring in one hand, wire cutters in the other. I am about to cut this thing down,

oh, edit. . . .
Its 1:11 am....

so either talk me off the edge, or tell me I am doing the right thing, or hate, whatever, F u... lol
 
Umm dont go cutting it just yet. If it new, its not unusual for it to be stiff as hell. Put a couple hundred rounds through it before go cutting anything. You may end up making it non functional if you do
 
I wish you would step back from that ledge, my friend...

Why doncha just sit in front of the TV and #### it a million times? Toughen up your thumb, break in spring, win-win?
 
hahaha, ya ya I have put 500 plus through it. its 2 years old now. All I do is sit and ####. . . and ####. . . and ####. . . Seriously its like a ### #### up in here!

I have owned a previous 1911 and an XD45 they were not like this.
 
Maybe a different gun is in order for you or strengthen up those arms/thumbs.

Cutting the spring will result in cycling problems or light strikes.
 
First off, never cut a spring in a firearm. That's just all kinds of no no. If there is a real need to lighten a spring, replace it with an appropriate lighter spring.

If the pistol is stiff, I would at least shoot it a while and see how it goes. I assume you are talking about the main spring and not the recoil spring?
 
Sure - go ahead and cut the spring - if you are talking about the hammer spring - one coil or less at a time until you like it - not a bad idea to have a spare handy.

While you are at it, cut your magazine spring down a bit too - it makes it much easier to load. The limit is usually the slide-lock - which needs the spring pressure of the magazine to lift it to lock after last shot. Take the baseplate off and let the spring down a bit and pull the slide open and see if it will lock - don't cut too much at once - you'll need to bend the end a bit to seat well. This is the nicest thing you can do to help loading stiff mags.

Don't worry - if you mess up - no big deal - new springs are available and cheap.
 
Have you isolated your problem?

1. Racking the slide? Try racking the slide with the hammer already cocked.
If still too stiff, then:
Remove the recoil spring, re-assemble the slide/barrel etc, and try racking again. If there is no binding, replace the recoil spring with a new 16 pounder. My 100 lb. wife can rack that, so any wimp can rack a 1911 with a 16 lb spring:D

Sure a 12 lb recoil spring will work but will batter your frame/slide with full hardball ammo.

2. Cocking the hammer with your thumb? Check if the mainspring is binding by pushing down on the mainspring cap. If not binding, remove the mainspring and reassemble everything else. #### the hammer. If the hammer is not binding, replace the mainspring with a lighter one.

3. If the mainspring is too stiff, it will be hard to rack the slide as well.

4. If the hammer is rough where it contacts the slide as the slide moves rearward, there might be binding here too. Never seen this happen, but strange things happen.

5. With the slide off, see if the disconnector moves up and down freely.
 
Do NOT cut or replace the recoil spring. It has to be matched to the power of the load being shot. You want the recoil spring to be strong so the slide doesn't smash against the frame at the end of the recoil cycle. Yet you want it soft enough that it allows the full travel of the slide so that you get a good strip of the new round from the mag and that the travel is far enough back to ensure a proper slide lock. The other sign of a too stiff recoil spring is a weak case ejection arc. You want a positive ejection but not too strong. If the cases are flying out 15 feet before hitting the dirt you're likely running with too SOFT a recoil spring.

If you're finding that it's hard to rack check the face of the hammer and heel of the firing pin retainer. Polish if needed and oil or LIGHTLY grease the face of the hammer, heel of the FP retainer and the length of the hammer rub track on the slide. You'll find this smoothens up the racking of the slide nicely.

For the mainspring I'd suggest a Wolff order for some reduced power options. It's actually quite amazing how light the hammer mainspring can be and still get reliable results. And a proper lighter spring gives a nicer feel than cutting down a heavy spring.
 
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