"Springback" when re-sizing Brass

purple

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I recently FL re-sized 171 pieces of DA64/65/66 twice fired brass with their last firing in an M14 with a 1.635 chamber. Brass was re-sized to fit a 7.62mm Garand with a 1.635 chamber. To set my re-sizing die I used the rifle and stripped bolt as a gauge with the die being adjusted to a point where resized brass would allow the stripped bolt to fully close w/o resistance. The die was then turned down another 1/8 turn and locked.

All brass was then FL resized, wiped dry and trial fitted in the rifle with the following results;
- 125 pcs allowed the bolt to close fully with no felt resistance and full metal to metal contact between the bottom of the right locking lug and the receiver
- 46 pcs would not allow the bolt to fully close. Of these, 5 cases allowed the right lug to close about half-way down and 1 case would not allow the bolt lug to engage the vertical lug seat in the receiver at all. In some cases it was evident that an overly large radial dimension was the problem, rather than just insufficient shoulder set-back.
- I then ran all 46 pcs thru the FL re-sizing die and found that 5 would still not allow the bolt to close fully. After a third resizing these 5 cases allowed the bolt to close fully.

This exercise illustrates that "springback" does occur in FL resizing brass to one extent or another as some brass wants to "remember" where it was before being FL resized. This is a caution for folks reloading for Garand and M14 types as insufficiently sized brass can lead to an out of battery detonation, especially in combination with other factors incl high primers, overly sensitive primers, and a firing pin which might be at or exceed protrusion limits.

It is generally believed that brass will have the shoulder set back .001 as a result of the "drive-in" factor when being chambered in a FA or SA firearm. The hammer fall when the trigger is released would also assist the bolt to fully close on some insufficiently resized rounds. No doubt this would have assisted a high percentage of the initial lot of 46 pcs of "no go" resized brass to fully chamber and fire w/o any difficulty.

If the bolt won't fully rotate closed on a chambered round in a Garand/M14, the safety feature of the action, which has the receiver bridge engage the tang at the rear of the firing pin and prevent the firing pin from going foreword until the bolt has rotated to a 90/95% closed position, would have theoretically prevented a number of these insufficiently sized rounds from being fired. But the degree of wear on the receiver safety bridge and the firing pin tang are always unknown.

My assessment is that I may have had an issue ranging from a possible failure to fire with 5 pcs of FL resized brass, or a possible out of battery detonation with 1 case out of the initial batch of 171 pcs of FL resized brass, even after the brass had been FL resized with the resizing die set to allow the brass to fully chamber in the rifle plus a safety margin. All cases needed trimming after resizing, but there was enough freebore in the barrel throat to accommodate this as all cases chambered freely after final resizing.

"Springback" of resized brass is a factor that folks should bear in mind when reloading for Garand/M14 types. This is much more of a concern than in a bolt gun where the powerful camming action of the bolt lugs will most often let you get away with chambering an insufficiently resized case. My recommendation is that Garand/M14 reloaders always trial fit their resized cases in the rifle with the stripped bolt to ensure full chambering before reloading their brass. This is in addition to whatever other checks are done with case length gauges, etc. This is especially important for reloaders who are using surplus military 7.62 brass in .308 Win dimension chambers as 7.62 chambers are nominally larger than .308 Win chambers, and a lot of surplus 7.62 brass has been fired in MGs which can be quite generous in chamber dimensions.
 
Great write up Purple.
Ran into this recently full length sizing a whole load of NATO brass. ( all MG rounds )
Had a couple of cases would not fit in the chamber, it got me scratching my head.
Got the calipers out and sure enough I had probably 2 dozen out of 600+ that were still out of spec.
Ran them thru the sizer again and good to go.
Spotted before I had another KABOOM.
Now as a matter of course I run the calipers over all of them after sizing.....Coz you never know when your gonna miss one :)

And yes..........Your article should be stickied given the number of SA owners on this site
Cheers.
 
Its a good idea to anneal the brass after a few firings. It starts to work harden after every firing hense the spring back you see. For optimal shooting its a good idea to mike every loaded round and batch them together
 
What about"dwell time"?
Supposedly, a case should be held under compression in the die for several seconds, rather than quickly ramming it then back out.

Does anyone have any solid, verified information on this?
Not just anecdotal "I do it all the time"/"I never bother" comments.
Thanks
 
What about"dwell time"?
Supposedly, a case should be held under compression in the die for several seconds, rather than quickly ramming it then back out.

Does anyone have any solid, verified information on this?
Not just anecdotal "I do it all the time"/"I never bother" comments.
Thanks

I've got another batch of the same 2 F brass that I'm going to resize when I get the time. I was planning on doing exactly that to see how it works out compared to the batch that I described.
 
I've got another batch of the same 2 F brass that I'm going to resize when I get the time. I was planning on doing exactly that to see how it works out compared to the batch that I described.

You beat me to it :)
But Im going to do the same thing my self later today and will post later.
I was thinking just ram some in and whip em out, then let some dwell for say a 3 count and measure them up
Then a few different dwell times...could be interesting.
 
I recently purchased 1000 pcs of once fired LC brass and had its was alittle learning experience which was a good thing. The first thing I did was deprimed and swaged . Then I annealed them with my Giraud case annealer

So rather inspecting them with a case gauge to sort them out I just proceeded to size them with a small base die. So at the range I was experiencing FTE and FTF wondering what the hell was going on. When I got home I quickly checked some loaded rounds with a case gauge and they appeared to be fine.

Not convinced I decided to put the rounds aside till my headspace gave set from forester comes in.
So what I did was I confirmed my headspace is 1.632 and used that gauge to zero my hornady tool and to my surprise the loaded rounds which I thought were head spaced enough were actually 8-9 thou longer.

So back to the SB die and gave it another have turn more which maxed it out and now I'm getting shoulder bumps from 3-4 thou which is fine . Be careful when buying once fired , make sure you check every single piece and sort them accordingly . I believe spring back is an issue with brass that has been fired In a MG in which that brass should get resized twice.

My 2 cents.
 
Here's why I'm very anal about verifying the fit of resized brass in the chamber of an M14/M1 Garand that you plan to fire it in. About 14-15 yrs ago I was shooting some reloads in an M14 using FL resized DA brass which was sized to fit the chamber of the rifle, or so I thought. Every round worked fine except 1 which failed to chamber fully and was then fired. The bolt lugs were sufficiently engaged and the case didn't rupture, so I considered myself lucky. What I had done was to set up my FL resizer to resize the brass to allow the bolt to close freely, but I had obviously failed to verify the fit with this one case and so it went. A good illustration of case "springback" after FL resizing if there ever was one. In this case I think that an excessively large radial dimension, rather than insufficient shoulder set-back, was the problem. Anyway, lesson learned and I've been very careful to verify the fit of every piece of resized brass in the chamber since then. To me it's worth the extra time to strip the rifle and the bolt so that it can be used as the ultimate gauge for resized brass.
 
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Anyone reloading, especially for semi autos should have a case gauge,,to resize without one is just guessing,,,
 
I FL resized another lot of 92 pieces of twice fired DA64/65/66 brass using the same die setting as in post #1 and the same 7.62 Garand to do the chambering checks with the stripped bolt. This brass had previously fired in 2 different 7.62 Garands. When resizing I held each case in the die for a 5 count, rather than just the normal down/upstroke on the press. This time I found that 29 of the 92 resized cases did not allow the bolt to close fully when chambered. The bolt came closer to closing on all cases than in the previous exercise, so obviously holding the case in the die for a 5 count did make some difference. Of the 29 "no-go" cases, all but 4 allowed the bolt to close after a second pass with a 5 count in the resizer. the 5 cases all ran OK after a third resizing.

When doing the first resizing I detected quite a bit more resistance with about half the cases, so I assume that the one chamber in which they were fired must have been a bit enlarged in the radial dimension. This could be verified by making a chamber cast.

My takeaways again;
1.military case "springback" is an issue to be aware of when FL resizing for a Garand/M14 type rifle. You need to absolutely verify that resized cases will allow the bolt to fully close before reloading and firing them. One pass thru the FL resizer cannot be counted on to do this with every piece of brass.

2. Gauges are all to the good and I have a case length gauge, but the final best gauge to verify that a case is sufficiently resized is the rifle itself.
 
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