Springs & Bending Jigs

mooncoon

CGN Ultra frequent flyer
Rating - 100%
22   0   0
Location
Vancouver Island
One of the challenges for me is getting the bend in the right location when making V springs. I leave a "fin" or tab of metal where the little pin goes and that allows me leeway on locating it but I still have to be careful not to make the overall length of the spring too long or too short. I decided to make a bending jig that would allow me to position the bend more accurately than using a chalk mark on my vice as a guide for starting the bend. The hook or thin end of the spring indexes on the adjustable piece and the spring is bent around the fixed fulcrum. The adjustable piece is reversed to change from a left spring to a right spring and the same goes for the piece beside the fulcrum which hopefully will prevent bowing of the metal being bent. In the photos below you will see the mark I version which had the shortcoming that even though the spring was red hot at the bend, the metal still bowed out away from the fulcrum that I was bending around. I modified the jig by adding a stop to prevent the metal from bowing up during a bend but have not yet used the jig in the mark II version. I have high hopes (although often they turn out to be faint hopes). I also included a photo of how I made the threaded pin that secures the fulcrum and the brace to the body of the jig. I made a hollow end mill, put the work in the lathe and used the mill like a drill. The hole in the center leaves a pin the diameter of the screw you wish to thread. After creating the pin, I used a hack saw to cut away the remainder of the metal. On a piece of 3/16" piece of flat bar it is much easier and faster than turning the pin down on the lathe.

I also tossed in a couple of photos of a pair of locks by Blanch and Son to show what a really good set of locks look like. The sears on these locks pivot on a captive pin rather than a screw through the bridle. The advantage is that the bridge is supported by pillars on both sides of the sear pivot and you do not get any pressure and friction on the sear. The mainsprings on the locks are homemade and not nearly as pleasing to the eye as the originals would have been. I also remain impressed by how little metal is left in the little claws that grip the S link to the tumbler

cheers mooncoon











 
Last edited:
Back
Top Bottom