Spuhr unimount vs seperate rings

I have SPHUR, Seekins (Vortex ), Nightforce and TPS on various rifles and I like the SPHUR the best but the issue re bubble that others raise is also true for me. I did notice that when mounting a Razor 2 in the SPHUR there wasn't a lot of room because the turrets are pretty massive whereas with rings you can accommodate the scope more easily.
 
Good to know you have first hand experience mounting a razor gen ll in a spuhr
What is you spuhr ring height?

Edit, finally found a picture, with a standard scope rail, and non-railed handguard combo (will be my rifle/chassis setup)



As second photo shows, MDT jacked up rail (top rifle) to get on same height as a railed handguard




I am thinking if going 1.5" high, it will clear front handguard hood and not look too jacked up on a normal height scope rail. Opinions?
 
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Update, spoke with MDT, the clearance i am looking for is a 1.125'' height 34mm rings
I could clear with lower since top of tube is open (unlike my first picture which is not production model), but wanted the measure for full unrailed tube in case i go carbon fiber full tube handguard down the road.
Coretac solutions seem to have the best prices in country, will be ordering the SP-4006 which is 0 moa and 1.35'' in height
 
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Thanks for sharing

I'd share a close up pic of my setup, Photobucket ain't collaborating this morning
The big lines, 1.33" ring height looks way too high as my rifle is in factory stock
When chassis gets in, it should all make sense

Edit : photobucket up again



 
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I went with a Spuhr mount on my 50BMG after it flexed it's last optic apart in a set of Farrell rings and haven't looked back since. The quality is outstanding, it's completely modular, it provides a level of support and rigidity that you can't get from rings and bases and the anti-can't level is an added bonus. The mount is designed to allow the shooter to easily see their turrets since the ring design is squared off rather than round unlike other manufacturers, a big bonus especially if you spend a lot of time in the prone like I do.

Lots of added rail products from Spuhr mean that you will have no problem adding an angle cosine indicator, back up irons, red dot, laser designator or NVG devices or anything else if you so choose. I opted for the 6MIL (20MOA) setup since I have it mounted on a 15 moa base rail but you can get 7 MIL and 11.6 MIL variants if you need more elevation.

All in all it's a great product designed by a great company, the fit and finish is excellent! I would not hesitate to buy another one (in fact I will be once I'm done building my current project rifle).

My .02
 
Thanks for sharing!
My 308 is far from 50 BMG, but now that scope is setup in the mount, i can transfer it from rifle to rifle.
Since spuhr is designed to level scope in mount, rather than level scope with receiver.
That's another story as i have not read on barrel cant yet.

Went with 0MOA, as the base it's fastned on, is an ATRS 20moa rail
 
How did you guys find the scope leveling bracket that came with it?
I made use of it, but had to grind the top of bracket in line with parallax knob, it was interfering with it.
Anti cant bubble is small on the mount also
 
I found the levelling wedge great! That silly bubble level...not so great. That level is hard to see and you need to break your cheek weld and re-adjust your focus. I added a US Optics anti-cant bubble level to my rail.

Other than that, it's probably the best mount I have (and I have 5 different mounts).
 
Kosmic said:
I like my Spuhr very much. A little high but I have a long face anyway lol!!

jHiwMUP.jpg
Click to expand...

Let's not get too hung up with getting your scope 1mm away from the barrel. The point of the exercise is to get a comfortable cheek position, not to get the scope too low to get uncomfortable.

I think that's looks perfectly fine to me.

Besides you have an adjustable cheek piece.
 
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Curious to know if the people having issues with the SPUHR unimount bubble level is one of them not having proper cheek rest position and causing a bad cheek weld perhaps?

I am able to simply open my left eye and the bubble level is right there for me. No issues with any of the 6 units I have used.

An interesting lesson I learned that drives home just how important a good cheek weld is to accurate shooting was learned at one of hungrys precision rifle clinics a few years ago.

Lie down prone behind your rifle and focus on a spot on the wall or on a target at the range. Keep cheek weld so you can see the target clearly, and hold the position for 5-10 minutes. If you start tensing up and getting strained, you don't have good cheek weld and are putting a lot of stress in your neck to hold the position. A simple trick he used was to hand out simple foam pads (1/8" or 1/4" thin camping/ yoga style pads cut into small pieces work perfect) and tape them to your rifle stock to increase the height of the cheek weld, and repeat the exercise. Repeat adding more foam until you get the perfect height.

When you hit the right spot for your perfect cheek weld, you will likely be able to sit as still as a sack of potatoes behind the gun with virtually no stress until the end of the exercise. This small and easy test made a huge impact on me because it shows you how fast you really get uncomfortable and shaky behind the rifle with improper cheek weld, and equally how much more comfortable it is to shoot a rifle with perfect cheek weld.


Try it out with your rifle and the results may surprise you if you don't have a properly set up cheek riser.
 
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