Spuhr unimount vs seperate rings

Horse96 said:
Wait until you get your scope and chassis. Then stack coins on top of your reciever and your scope on the stack. Stack until you have the clearance you need from the rifle. Then measure the height of the stack and boom, you have the height you need. IMO, the spurh mount is nice if you are swapping the scope between rifles and/or you have a flat top rifle. Rings will swap over fine as well, but if you are really knit-picky, the spuhr should hold a little truer as to its zero.

I thought the integrated bubble level was cool as well. But, I have an MPA BA chassis on the way, so the level is included in the stock!

Oh, and you'll have lots of room for adjustment to shoot to 1km with a 20 moa rail. If you said one mile, depending on the caliber, you might be pushing it.
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Thanks for the tips
Purchase has already been made and installed
Got handguard measurements from MDT and went ahead with given information
These scope mounts sure look ###y

 
MartyK2500 said:
All of a sudden i was thinking yeah i only have 1 recoil lug on my mount, and was thinking it's only .308 shouldn't move.
You got me thinking, AI in 338 Lapua, still got the dovetail with no possible recoil lug, so either AIs design is flawed or recoil lugs are over rated
Edit, just saw they do have 1 recoil lug
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With a one-piece mount, theres no reason to have more than one lug. With any dimensional variation of the rail, the chance of two mount lugs lining up to touch their rail lugs perfectly is slim. However, with rings you can individually push them up against their rail lug as much as you like, forward or backward.

Good rings like ATRS use a hardened steel cross lug. I feel pretty good with four of those snugged up against the rail lugs, three holding the scope from sliding forward under recoil and one to keep it from sliding back on deceleration, and as a bonus, the one always keeping the other three held tightly forward.

The lugs might be overrated but they're there for a reason, otherwise Picatinny rails would be smooth on top. Good side clamping can negate that need but I'd rather take advantage of a 90 degree mechanical stop or four.

We've all seen lousy .22 dovetail rings slide down the rail, and that's just rimfire recoil.
 
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mebiuspower said:
I got 20MOA mount with 20MOA base for my 50BMG... those 750gr A-Max bullets do drop a lot.
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Oh for sure. I just meant that a .308 168gr drops 41 moa at 1,000 yards. The razor gen ii has 71 moa max vert adjustment. So, roughly with a 0 moa canted rail, the razor has roughly 35 moa of adjustment. Throw in a 20 moa rail and you essentially get 55 moa of adjustment. There is more to it of course, but that is a good rough estimate. But that said, at 1,000 yards or 1km, a 20 moa rail will get you there. Go further, like a mile, and you'll need more cant, maybe at the cost of short distance, depending on the caliber.

http://warnescopemounts.com/20moa-explained/
 
I have the Razor HD Gen2, 4.5x - 27x and I went with the spuhr 0moa, as my rail came with 30 built in. In my opinion, if you're dropping almost 4 thousand into a scope, get the best rings you can afford.

Buy it right, buy it once!
 
CanadianRouge said:
I have the Razor HD Gen2, 4.5x - 27x and I went with the spuhr 0moa, as my rail came with 30 built in. In my opinion, if you're dropping almost 4 thousand into a scope, get the best rings you can afford.

Buy it right, buy it once!
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Damn right.

Buy cheap buy twice.
 
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