SR22 problems need help!

Nybez

Nybez

Member
Rating - 100%
13   0   0
Location
British Columbia, Fraser Valley
So I grabbed a Ruger SR22 off the EE. I was doing a field strip, clean and reading the manual at the same time. I like to field strip all firearms before I shoot them. I removed the scope mount base it is attached to the receiver with 4 small torque head screws. One of them got stripped during reassembly even though I was being very careful. I know I'm an idiot please don't rub it in! Is my best bet to tap the next size up and use a new screw. Or try to find small heli coils and do all four holes so it won't happen again. If I change all four I'm going to use an allen key head.

Also in the manual it says the scope mount base needs to be removed from the receiver to field strip the rifle this is complete bull. It comes apart fine without removing the scope mount. The receiver has very soft metal and very fine threaded screws. A very poor design. Don't take out these screws

Question #2 The V block is attached to the receiver under the barrel... shouldn't this touch the barrel isn't it to support and to hold the barrel in place. Please look at the picture attached to see the gap I'm talking about. I'm not sure if it's normal.

Question #3 I bought a full length top rail from Dlask Arms and it sits lower than the scope base and also a little left. Has anyone encountered this and have a fix. I'm not so concerned with it being low but left is bad as I am using battle sights.

nybez
[/URL][/IMG]
 
Last edited:
I'm not sure about your first 2 questions but about the full length rail being lopsided,and sitting low seem to be a problem from what i have been hearing. I bought a full rail from ruger and it fits bang on. it seems to me that the people that are having issues with the rails are buying them from other ditributers.
 
Can anybody post a clear picture of a Dlask rail that is lower?

And since you are at it, can anybody measure exactly how much it sits lower?
Opinions here vary and are guessy, they say 1-2 mm, 1/32"-1/16", etc.
So, did anybody measure it exactly instead of guessing?

The biggest difference I have measured on SR-22 was .012".
(For comparison,
the spec for the M4 Colt with railed FF handguard limits the difference
between top receiver rail and top hanguard rail at .065").




And, the exact same SR-22 top rail (regardless of the manufacturer)
sits at different levels if assembled on different SR-22's,
but that is a normal in-consistency between Ruger guns
(because in the SR-22 design, there are 5 parts contributing
to that particular tolerance stack,
so my gut feeling sez that a difference around .025"-.030" in leveling
of exactly the same rail assembled on different guns is to be expected).












Nybez said:
..... also a little left. Has anyone encountered this and have a fix.
Click to expand...
If it is left or right, it has nothing to do with the rail.
The handguard tube is not straight.
The fix is to lose the handguard's lock-ring,
rotate the handguard in the correct position,
re-tighten the lock ring.






Nybez said:
Question #2 The V block is attached to the receiver under the barrel... shouldn't this touch the barrel isn't it to support and to hold the barrel in place. Please look at the picture attached to see the gap I'm talking about. I'm not sure if it's normal.
nybez
[/URL][/IMG]
Click to expand...
In fact, on a factory gun with factory v-block, that is perfectly normal.
The v-block grabs the slanted lip of the barrel and
it pushes the barrel rearward in the receiver.
Some aftermarket v-blocks have an extra set-screw
that pushes the barrel up a little and by doing that,
it makes some people believe that it prevents barrel droop.
 
Last edited:
Nybez said:
I will get some pics up of how much lower it is with measurements when I get the receiver back.
Click to expand...

I wonder if shimming it would work with a piece of tin, like from a pop can? There has to be a little flex in the rail to be able to do this.
 
Pop can shims might be flexible enough to fit the contours of the hand guard and the curved rail mounts. I'll give it a go can't hurt.

And, the exact same SR-22 top rail (regardless of the manufacturer)
sits at different levels if assembled on different SR-22's,
but that is a normal in-consistency between Ruger guns
(because in the SR-22 design, there are 5 parts contributing
to that particular tolerance stack,
so my gut feeling sez that a difference around .025"-.030" in leveling
of exactly the same rail assembled on different guns is to be expected).
Click to expand...

The rail seems to be a very well made product and I really am happy with it. I love the maple leaf engraving looks really classy.
 
Is my best bet to tap the next size up and use a new screw. Only doing the one hole that is stripped.....

Or try to find small heli coils and do all four holes so it won't happen again.

Like I said the scope base doesn't need to come off for field stripping. I'll never remove them again if I can avoid it.

Also looking for one of those Canadian made tougher buffers with free shipping! Anyone know where to get one.
 
thebutcher said:
I'm not sure about your first 2 questions but about the full length rail being lopsided,and sitting low seem to be a problem from what i have been hearing. I bought a full rail from ruger and it fits bang on. it seems to me that the people that are having issues with the rails are buying them from other ditributers.
Click to expand...

I tried to order one from the ruger site and they don't ship to canada.... where did you get yours?
 
Follow up pics

Went to Dlask was very happy! They fixed the stripped screw hole, hooked me up with this sweet compensator & threaded the barrel.

I'm going to blam tomorrow afternoon and test it out.

The rail measurement was a very small difference 0.008 I can hardly see it.

Pics for anyone who cares....

P1080325.jpg
[/IMG]

P1080323.jpg
[/IMG]

P1080324.jpg
[/IMG]
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom