SRV2 Siberian Reviews

Yeah, anyways.

I had 2
keeping 1 and the rifle has been probably the best of the 180 cope guns thats Ive owned/used.

Its been accurate, reliable , not picky with mags or ammo and has been just a all round great little bush/2gun..gun.

That said I liked the Sterling R18mk2 a lot at first I thought that was a fantastic rifle for the first 1200 rounds but after that the performance nose dived across both uppers, after 2 sendbacks and 4 replacement parts. And for the 1000 dollar increase in price vs the siberian yes Im still mad at it 11 months later

The Siberian I am keeping is sitting comfortably at only around 3300 rounds and its only malfunction has been 2 FTF during the first 20 rounds of use which had me rolling my eyes expecting it to he a complete lemon.

Biggest complaint for the Siberian is the Zhukov stock is poop and sits too high almost completely inline with the top of the pick rail which turns the gun into a a game of riser janga. But I mean thanks to the 1913 rail section I threw that thing in the trash and put a SL-S stock on .

Oh and the rifle is slightly front heavy but I mean oh well such is like in Canada and no I wont buy a bullpup
 
I have had great success with my BCL Bison so I purchased a Siberian. In my sample opinion of one I think its a great soft shooter and I have no complaints. Not picky on ammo and it takes the cross mags. I had an extra Triggertech trigger that I put in a wow what a difference it makes.
 
hmmm...I'm the converse of that.
My BCL Bison is the last product I'll go out on a limb for with support for BCL.

It was a good idea poorly executed with pretty bad accuracy and really bad QC and quality of parts.
 
Can anyone confirm if the small parts for the bolt (extractor, extractor spring, ejector, ejector spring, firing pin retaining pin) are all standard AR parts? I know the firing pin retaining spring isn't a cotter pin, it's the solid type but is it proprietary?
 
Just got mine. Not shot it yet but first impressions:

- It feels light and very slender
- the trigger is not great being a bit long and creepy, might improve with use
- fit and finish are reasonable
- the controls such as safety, bolt release etc seem rather cheap and too small for easy use especially if wearing gloves
- I don't like the pistol grip. It feels a little under size and looks cheap
- as others have said you need a tall scope mount
- it would have been nice if it came from the factory with a flash hider
- some kind of maple leaf logo would have been cool

I plan to:
- try an Elcan C79 which I can no longer use on my ARs
- fit an AR pistol grip
- fit an angled fore grip
- put on a bird cage type flash hider from one of my ARs
- shoot!
 
Ceiferiro said:
I've just tried this with every Semiauto I've been able to get my hands on over the last couple days which include but isnt limited to HK g36, B&T APCs, Siberians , MCRs, ACRs, ATMS , a HK630 , SL7 , a couple Valmets a SG540, and various SKS' and they all can drop the hammer while being out of battery by about a quarter to half an inch. Huh.

That said we had empty casings with only primers in and no primers were popped but still. interesting .
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I don't see how this is interesting at all. Most, if not all modern SA rifles should be designed so that the hammer cannot contact the firing pin, if the hammer drops when the thing is not fully in battery. That the hammer drops is completely irrelevant. The important part is the hammer cannot hit the firing pin. This is basic firearms design 101 sort of stuff.
 
koopa1333 said:
Just got the rifle, haven't fired it yet. Loaded up some snap caps and... you can fire this thing out of battery. Like significantly out of battery too. Almost a full inch.
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So? As long as the firing pin is not hit by the hammer, this means nothing and is totally common.



koopa1333 said:
I certainly hope it can't. Best case, this is a design flaw in the BCL that can give you a dead trigger (this is the first firearm I've ever handled that can physically do this, it's laughable that something from the early 1900s doesn't have this problem and yet something new does, that costs 1800$ to boot), at worst, it will cause the firearm to detonate and injure or kill the user. I've submitted a complaint to them and they said they'll get back to me Monday. Will update the thread when they do. Incredibly disappointed
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koopa1333 said:
Any AR I've handled couldn't drop the hammer without the bolt closed :p
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Well then I might suggest you have never handled an AR15 because they absolutely can drop the hammer with the carrier pulled back. I just tried it on one of my AR's and was able to hear the hammer drop with the carrier pulled 1.25" back.

So you have complained to the manufacturer about something that is totally common among semi-auto rifles? Good going! :(

It also explains why you didn't update the thread after having complained to the manufacturer 7 weeks ago. I'm betting they came back and had to explain to you how the rifle works.
 
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Just got around to working on mine. Upgraded the firing pin, replaced trigger with a TriggerTech (big improvement). I want to install a Noveske flash hider, but the distance between the pivot and takedown pins are different than an AR15. I'd get a AR10/15 vice block but it definitely won't fit the AR15 pin holes, but I don't have an AR10 to measure to see if that spacing will work. Anyone tell me what the AR10 spacing between pins is? Does anyone have experience with installing a muzzle device on the Siberian? Can it be done safely without a vice block?

Thanks for any help.
 
guy329 said:
Just got around to working on mine. Upgraded the firing pin, replaced trigger with a TriggerTech (big improvement). I want to install a Noveske flash hider, but the distance between the pivot and takedown pins are different than an AR15. I'd get a AR10/15 vice block but it definitely won't fit the AR15 pin holes, but I don't have an AR10 to measure to see if that spacing will work. Anyone tell me what the AR10 spacing between pins is? Does anyone have experience with installing a muzzle device on the Siberian? Can it be done safely without a vice block?

Thanks for any help.
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Uhhhhh ..... just how much torque are you planning to put into that muzzle device? A crush washer does not require that much torque. Any muzzle device with a lock nut requires zero torque on the barrel / upper.
 
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