Stag 10 Arrived, cannot break down.

[dangertree]

My rifle's forward assist did not engage the bolt carrier. The bolt stop would not engage the bolt when manually drawing the BCG to the rear on an empty mag. I was using PMAGS which I considered to have a fairly stiff spring. Stag sent me a new forward assist that works properly, and I trimmed 1/16" off the bolt stop spring and got proper function.

The OEM BCG also sucks. I did not have reliable bolt lock-back on an empty mag using the hirtenberger surplus, winchester factory soft points, or my own reloads with 44 gr of IMR 4895....this is after modifying the bolt stop spring. After installing a Lantac enhanced BCG I have had 100% flawless operation with 38 gr of IMR 4895.

Glad it's working, but, if your BCG is the difference between the rifle working and not working reliably, let us know. The OEM BCG really doesn't suck, its should run 7.62 surplus fine. If your particular example does suck for whatever reason, (not full function, probs resolved with other BCG) we'd be happy to swap you for one that doesn't suck under warranty. Not knocking any other product, but the Stag nitride BCG is a good quality BCG, unless it isn't, and it sounds like yours isn't.

 

[dangertree]

My new Stag 10 arrived today, and like all new guns I purchase, the first thing I do is disassemble and clean them. This Stag 10 will not break down when I push out the pivot pin, no matter what I have tried. I was reluctant to post this question, having owned several AR 15s before, but I am truly at a loss. Can anyone make any suggestions? Thanks in advance.

Sorry to read you are having a problem with your new rifle. I'm with you that it seems like an unusual scenario. Hopefully a fairly simple fix.
Arms East provides warranty and support. My suggestion would be to contact us at 844 579 0007 info@armseast.com. Reach out, and we will take care of you.

 

[Kratos]

Yes, slop does effect accuracy.

I fully understand he popped both pins and it still won't come apart.

It's just tight. There is nothing there that can lock the upper to the lower. It's just tight and he's not trying hard enough.

Tilting it open would be easier than sliding them apart due to mechanical advantage, so he's neither sliding them or pivoting with enough force.

There is nothing else.

The only thing that might actually interfere is the buffer tube. Other than that it's a tight fit and nothing but.

I bolded the stupid in your post, probably could’ve got away with highlighting all of it. I had more but arguing with stupidity will have to wait until tomorrow.

 

[walks with loud stick]

I bolded the stupid in your post, probably could’ve got away with highlighting all of it. I had more but arguing with stupidity will have to wait until tomorrow.

Really!? A lot of pooor accuracy has been attributed to loose receivers. Why to bolt guys bed their actions.. apparently they might as well just loosen their action screws!

Why are manufacturers trying to keep slop to a minimum?

If it's not due to not trying hard enough, can you enlighten me as to what else could be locking it together besides a nice tight fit?

 

[dangertree]

To determine if I should be worried, about my rifle not functioning properly when it arrives, I would like to know how many people have ordered a rifle in the last couple of months, that has exhibited some kind of problem?

Your gun on route will quite likely be excellent, as so many are. We hope you enjoy it.

 

[walks with loud stick]

Hell, one day my sub moa long range rifle was shooting so bad, I was embarrassed. The wedge on the recoil lug had broken. That's all t took toncreate 3 ft shotgun pattern at 500m. Almost inconceivable amount of play between the barrelled action and stock.

Why Are semi autos inherbatly less accurate than bolt action? Can't be the rattling parts. Must be due to the action cycling after the Bullet has left the muzzle. Lol.

I'd love to learn something from you oh wise one.

 

[Kratos]

Really!? A lot of pooor accuracy has been attributed to loose receivers. Why to bolt guys bed their actions.. apparently they might as well just loosen their action screws!

Why are manufacturers trying to keep slop to a minimum?

If it's not due to not trying hard enough, can you enlighten me as to what else could be locking it together besides a nice tight fit?

Hell, one day my sub moa long range rifle was shooting so bad, I was embarrassed. The wedge on the recoil lug had broken. That's all t took toncreate 3 ft shotgun pattern at 500m. Almost inconceivable amount of play between the barrelled action and stock.

Why Are semi autos inherbatly less accurate than bolt action? Can't be the rattling parts. Must be due to the action cycling after the Bullet has left the muzzle. Lol.

I'd love to learn something from you oh wise one.

If you know anything about the AR platform the parts make the AR accurate are in the upper, the hammer falls and the upper does the work. There are many articles and reviews about it. Lots of people on CGN may even tell you the same as I am. A bolt gun is completely different, apples to moon rocks in this case. And bolt guns were more accurate, but that gap is closing due to companies manufacturing higher quality parts for semi autos, mainly barrels.

And telling someone to sledgehammer a brand new firearm apart is just stupid. It’s broken out of the box, you replace it under warranty. This is a $2000+ firearm and your advise is to slam it around until it opens up. It’s beyond dumb advice. I normally keep my cool on hear but you’re either a troll or don’t know sh!t.

 

[Dr. Hunter]

Would be interesting to mount something to the picatinny rail and then use a rubber mallet and see if a little more force can separate it.

 

[Kratos]

Would be interesting to mount something to the picatinny rail and then use a rubber mallet and see if a little more force can separate it.

If you bought a brand new vehicle would you strap something to the door and beat it with a sledge to open it if the door was jammed shut?

If it was an old car or a wreck then I can see experimenting to open it.

 

[dangertree]

What’s up with the sledgehammer examples?

My car example. If i bought a brand new car and something wasnt right, i’d call the dealer first, explain the situation, and ask their advice. It might be something that can easily be resolved.

 

[emerson]

What’s up with the sledgehammer examples?

My car example. If i bought a brand new car and something wasnt right, i’d call the dealer first, explain the situation, and ask their advice. It might be something that can easily be resolved.

Wait, that sounds rediculous....especially when something is expensive. (That was sarcasm for those who might miss it.)

 

[enefgee]

Sorry, but I can't help but worry when I hear about issues that should not be happening. Not with a platform that has been around for as long as the Stag 10 has.

What, you mean like 6 months almost all consisting of back orders and all hands on deck to try to keep up with orders?

 

[BooSSted]

What, you mean like 6 months almost all consisting of back orders and all hands on deck to try to keep up with orders?

The Stag 10 has been out since Aug 2017

 

[walks with loud stick]

If you bought a brand new vehicle would you strap something to the door and beat it with a sledge to open it if the door was jammed shut?

If it was an old car or a wreck then I can see experimenting to open it.

Who said anything about beating it with a hammer? I doubt it was beaten together with a hammer.

I just suspect the op is handling it rather daintily.

There's also plenty of evidence that suggests slop causes piss poor accuracy.

Go ahead and replace your take down and pivot pin with something smaller so she's nice and loose, take a trip to the range and report back here please.

While you're at it, shove a McGowan or something into some sloppy norninco and post up the sub half moa groups.

Also, take one of your sloppy ride does, dry fire it and watch for the receiver to move. And you will see it move.

How much movement does it take for you to see. What does that work out to overall fore to aft degreewise. 1/10 of a degree? 1/20th? If you can see it move its most certainly a measurable amount.

That upper begins its jolt the instant the hammer touches the firing pin, then the pin hits the primer, primer ignights, poster ignights, Bullet begins traveling and finally exits.

Between the time you pull the trigger and the bullet exits, things have moved ever so slightly.

There's 60 moa in one degree. 1/10 of a degree represents 6 moa. 1/20 is 3moa.

How much slop you have is going to effect accuracy.

I won't tolerate any play, at all, period.

Now back to the hammering thing. There is a difference between gentle whacks with a rubber mallet and the greatly exaggerated sledgehammering you came up with.

My rifles get banned around enough they would only be so lucky if the worst they saw was a rubber mallet.

And for the record, if I bought a brand new truck that had an issue that I could resolve myself at home within 5 minutes, I'd just fix it.

Filing the buffer tube to the correct profile is not a modification to the rifle btw.

 

[lmar]

I sent back 4 day ago.. Tj from Stag was helpful and Also told me it wasn't buffer tube and will send me new rifle and 2 mags and cleaning kit for my troubles as this is my second rifle sent back

1. User buys a product.
2. The user sends the product back due to defect /faulty assembly from the factory.
3. The user gets a new rifle and two additional magazines & a cleaning kit at no charge for their trouble.
4. Isn't this how customer service/warranty is supposed to work?

Not sure what the problem is other than delaying instant gratification of shiny new toy


L

 

[OkayShooter]

Who said anything about beating it with a hammer? I doubt it was beaten together with a hammer.

I just suspect the op is handling it rather daintily.

There's also plenty of evidence that suggests slop causes piss poor accuracy.

Go ahead and replace your take down and pivot pin with something smaller so she's nice and loose, take a trip to the range and report back here please.

While you're at it, shove a McGowan or something into some sloppy norninco and post up the sub half moa groups.

Also, take one of your sloppy ride does, dry fire it and watch for the receiver to move. And you will see it move.

How much movement does it take for you to see. What does that work out to overall fore to aft degreewise. 1/10 of a degree? 1/20th? If you can see it move its most certainly a measurable amount.

That upper begins its jolt the instant the hammer touches the firing pin, then the pin hits the primer, primer ignights, poster ignights, Bullet begins traveling and finally exits.

Between the time you pull the trigger and the bullet exits, things have moved ever so slightly.

There's 60 moa in one degree. 1/10 of a degree represents 6 moa. 1/20 is 3moa.

How much slop you have is going to effect accuracy.

I won't tolerate any play, at all, period.

Now back to the hammering thing. There is a difference between gentle whacks with a rubber mallet and the greatly exaggerated sledgehammering you came up with.

My rifles get banned around enough they would only be so lucky if the worst they saw was a rubber mallet.

And for the record, if I bought a brand new truck that had an issue that I could resolve myself at home within 5 minutes, I'd just fix it.

Filing the buffer tube to the correct profile is not a modification to the rifle btw.

AB_blaster?

 

[JoeOnePack]

1. User buys a product.
2. The user sends the product back due to defect /faulty assembly from the factory.
3. The user gets a new rifle and two additional magazines & a cleaning kit at no charge for their trouble.
4. Isn't this how customer service/warranty is supposed to work?

Not sure what the problem is other than delaying instant gratification of shiny new toy


L

People think that brand new products will be without issues from the factory. When customer service pulls through like a boss they're still upset because this brand new untested hardware didn't work perfectly out of the box. The same thing applies for a first year vehicle. There are always issues to iron out. The fact that customer service is this amazing is exactly why everyone chooses ATRS as their retailer to purchase an NR AR or anything firearms related to begin with.

I am so looking forward to spending my money with ATRS. This is coming from someone who hasn't spent a dime with them yet. The near future excites me to no end.

 

[Brianma65]

You had the same bad advice in the other thread about this. What haven't you learned? This is Stag's problem to repair, not his. He's in Nova Scotia, AE could have him one by the end of next week dude...

Sorry but didn’t AE already say it was a BT issue? And that they would send out a new BT?
That’s an easy fix if you already have an extra BT kicking around.

As for removing matarial from the tube, I’m just going by what I’ve received before.
Which was a higher semi with a modified tube.
By modified I mean it was cut to fit.

So maybe I’m wrong, but I’ve seen it done.

 

[IvoB]

What ever happened to QC?

 

[Shooter1971]

These threads always have to break down into about 10 pissing matches. AE stepped forward, just call them. New stuff has a warranty because sometimes it is needed. Should have been tested for simple functions before it leaves factory, ya Id think so. Sometimes stuff gets out and missed though. Personally Id figure it out myself and just be done with it, return it not repairable, repair if something simple or simple part swap. Good luck op, you will be fine in the end.

Others waiting on a gun, the actual issues have been minor and relatively low compared to the number of new rifles that have been sold and AE/Stag are stepping up to take care of these relatively minor issues. I'm buying more stag stuff while I can get em cheap lol. 640$ for a receiver set complete with LPK and UPK, hard to pass up. Stick with Arms East and you all will be treated fine.

Cheers

PS - Happy to purchase stag 10 receiver sets from anyone having regrets...pm me lol