STAG-10 In the Wild!

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1RmzAhF7f75Z8ipV5Paj_9Hlwu4NrXWg3/view?usp=drivesdk

Can't post pictures but here is mine.

Specs:
Stag 10 receiver set
Jp mklll 15.5" hand guard
Magpul prs gen 3
Vortex cantilever mount
Sightron SlllSS 8-32X56

and on the inside

Timney Calvin elite trigger
Jp scs gen 2 buffer
Lantac enhanced bolt carrier group
Jury custom barrel 1:8 7mm-08 24"
Bat machine barrel extension
Superlative arms .936 bleed off gas block
Raptor charging handle
 
Lol I know I’m just kiddin. I always cycle my new rifles at home tons. They usually end up very smooth and polished before I even fire them lol
 
Mike112288 said:
Lol I know I’m just kiddin. I always cycle my new rifles at home tons. They usually end up very smooth and polished before I even fire them lol
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I do this with the lower. Sit there watching tv with just the lower and break the trigger a few hundred times, just catch and reset the hammer with the palm of my hand. Smooths the trigger right out. I never thought to do it with the upper as well though...
 
Not good at uploading pics but first time to the range I got it shooting 3/4 moa without much effort. 6.5CM magpul model- Hornady Match 143gr. With more time and a better optic I'd guess itll shoot this ammo under a half MOA
 
bartok5 said:
my .308 gi showed up this morning. Upgrades include a magpul sls buttstock, law tactical folding stock adapter, noveske bad-azz charging handle, magpul mbus pro offset buis, ergo grip, geissele trigger, phase 5 bolt catch, magpul mloc vfg, streamlight tlr1 hl, griffin armament flashcomp, and topped off with a bushnell smrs 1-8.5x 24mm scope with vortex defender caps, arms 34mm qd rings and a switchview lever.

Weight unloaded is 12lbs 1.6 oz. Heavy, but workable for a battle rifle. I personally prefer lighter weight (eg. A faxon pencil barrel would have been nice), but didn't want to spend the extra money. Perhaps a future upgrade, depending on how the stock barrel shoots. With all of my mods completed, i have the ergo set-up that i prefer for my ar builds, with just a few pieces of usgi furniture left over. As anticipated, the gi model made an excellent basis for a rack-grade shooter with some custom touches. So long as my rifle will shoot 2 moa with my stash of south african surplus i will be a very happy camper!


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very nice rifle you have sir
 
greg olmstead said:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1RmzAhF7f75Z8ipV5Paj_9Hlwu4NrXWg3/view?usp=drivesdk

Can't post pictures but here is mine.

Specs:
Stag 10 receiver set
Jp mklll 15.5" hand guard
Magpul prs gen 3
Vortex cantilever mount
Sightron SlllSS 8-32X56

and on the inside

Timney Calvin elite trigger
Jp scs gen 2 buffer
Lantac enhanced bolt carrier group
Jury custom barrel 1:8 7mm-08 24"
Bat machine barrel extension
Superlative arms .936 bleed off gas block
Raptor charging handle
Click to expand...

looks good man
I'm very interested in hearing more about your rifle once you've had some time to put it to some use. 7mm-08 will be the build I do after christmas for the wife's rifle and will be using the same barrel maker.
 
First impressions Right Out of the Box.

.308 non-GI model:
Out of the 8 handguard screws 4 I could remove by hand while the rest offered no resistance once a screwdriver was applied. The gas block was not really locked in place, the set screws had not been tightened? The set screws do have teeth but didn't seemed to be turned past "just touching" the barrel. I added bit of red thread locker anyway before tightening down. Added a bit of blue TL to the handguard screws before equally tightening in turn to 38in lbs. I had emailed Stag already noting the issues others had found and asked for info on what things should be set/rightened too. (Provided a link to one of the threads here where it was covered in depth.) No answer as of yet so I just used typical 1/4 past tight/safe for now.

Already had the UBR stock, Vortex Viper HS T 4-16x44mm Scope, atlas type bipod, and larger grip. Just need to clean and find a day to go test.
 
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I am not a gun plumber, and am usually only comfortable with the "field strip"...therefore, can someone shed some light on how to best "tighten" up the potential gas tube issue on these new rifles?
 
Battle Pug said:
I am not a gun plumber, and am usually only comfortable with the "field strip"...therefore, can someone shed some light on how to best "tighten" up the potential gas tube issue on these new rifles?
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How best I can't say, someone more experianced can step up to answer that. ;)

I'm 6'6" so using an allen key to hand tighten should be fine. The red thread locker was only to ensure it doesn't work loose after reading how many others have had this issue even after tightening without thread locker. I just turned with two fingers until I couldn't go any further, with the handguard off. The handguard I used a FatWrench set to break at 38 - 40 inch pounds. Again blue thread locker was just in case.

If Stag or Arms East answers my earlier questions on proper torque settings I'll post back here as well.
 
Could Arms East Chime in and possibly provide an answer as to why these rifles are showing up half ass assembled? If they can't. Could they find out? Theres no excuse when your buying a $2000 dollar rifle and it shows up like there being described.
 
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Gunner84 said:
Could Arms East Chime in and possibly provide an answer as to why these rifles are showing up half ass assembled? If they can't. Could they find out? Theres no excuse when your buying a $2000 dollar rifle and it shows up like there being described.
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2000$ rifle with issues? In the case of a BCL rifle, you can at least say "its because it's a BCL rifle" haha

For the stags, might be a sporadic issue, somewhere along the lines.
 
45ACPKING said:
looks good man
I'm very interested in hearing more about your rifle once you've had some time to put it to some use. 7mm-08 will be the build I do after christmas for the wife's rifle and will be using the same barrel maker.
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I had some problems with it the fisrt 80 rounds but that was all me. It wouldn't shoot worth a damn. I got home kinda miffed and stripped it down scrubbed it all and put it back together and noticed my scope was loose. D'oh.

Tripled checked everything and went back to the range to redo load development and ran into yet another user error. My bipod wasn't tightening up to The handguard and throwing shots.

So third time out redoing load development again I managed to repeatable print .62 moa groups at 200m.

I am going to finalize load development today hopefully. Double check groups and chronic the load. I have my star shooter bipod mounted now so it's even more stable now.

But for function. it functions flawlessly once I got it turned with the gas block. (Gas block was venting all the gas fisrt few shots. D'oh). But the quality and finish of the barrel. It is second to none. There is likely hordes of people on here that can attest to the quality of these barrels. Everything to do with the barrel was done by the same man from drilling to reaming to rifling, contouring, head spacing and the gas port. The gas block seat is bang on mic'd out to .936.

The rifle is so smooth and the recoil very linear. It will recoil nearly straight back and stay on target every shot. All the components just work so well together.
 
Battle Pug said:
I am not a gun plumber, and am usually only comfortable with the "field strip"...therefore, can someone shed some light on how to best "tighten" up the potential gas tube issue on these new rifles?
Click to expand...

I honestly just made sure the screw holes in the gas block were lined up with the dimples, apply thread locker and give it a good hand tight. That's what I did anyways and it worked fine for an additional hundred rounds and by then I was done shooting.
 
Got mine to the range and finished up some shooting today. I haven’t had any issues with the gas block as reported by others. Or loose screws.
Rifle:
STAG 10 GI model .308
Vortex crossfire 4-16 Tactical
Vortex cantilever mount

Ammunition fired:
Norma match 168gr .308
American Eagle 150gr .308
PRVI 145gr .308
IVI surplus 7.62 1971 lot

I used the Norma match as a baseline and to zero the rifle at 100yards. Shooting from a prone supported position. This rifle was a tack driver with the Norma match. The PRVI and American Eagle are good plinking ammo with PRVI grouping the best out of the two. The IVI was very accurate, on par with the Norma match for accuracy.
The only issues I did encounter were with the IVI surplus. The rifle would short stroke, fail to feed and had weak ejection. This has been an issue that others have reported as well with 7.62 having a lower pressure. .308 ammunition did not have any issues.
Do I recommend the rifle? Damn skippy, everyone should have this rifle.

Cheers
 
Battle Pug said:
I am not a gun plumber, and am usually only comfortable with the "field strip"...therefore, can someone shed some light on how to best "tighten" up the potential gas tube issue on these new rifles?
Click to expand...

There are two Allen key screws on the underside of the gas block. Snug them up. To do so, remove the hand guard (T15) screws and slide off the hg. Snug up the Gas block screws, the snug up the hand guard screws when you put it back on. If you know you’re good with your setup for a bit, lock-tite them.

I don’t like to think to tell people to snug up gas block set screws, but I do wonder if this is in anyway related to reports to both us and Stag Arms (and discussed between us) after the first shipment that the same nuts were (correctly) torqued and thread-lock used resulting in some difficulty with ‘initial teardowns’ and requests for replacement screws.

There may be a happy medium. But you should take 5 mins and check that you are happy with those gas block set screws good and snug on your new rifle.
 
Gunner84 said:
Could Arms East Chime in and possibly provide an answer as to why these rifles are showing up half ass assembled? If they can't. Could they find out? Theres no excuse when your buying a $2000 dollar rifle and it shows up like there being described.
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See my reply in the post above if it’s my musings you’d like (previous complaints of the same screws being ‘too tight’ perhaps?).

I think you’ll find your rifle is well assembled, but you should snug up the gas block set screws, or ensure they are tight.
 
Zen_Seeker said:
How best I can't say, someone more experianced can step up to answer that. ;)

I'm 6'6" so using an allen key to hand tighten should be fine. The red thread locker was only to ensure it doesn't work loose after reading how many others have had this issue even after tightening without thread locker. I just turned with two fingers until I couldn't go any further, with the handguard off. The handguard I used a FatWrench set to break at 38 - 40 inch pounds. Again blue thread locker was just in case.

If Stag or Arms East answers my earlier questions on proper torque settings I'll post back here as well.
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Sounds good. On my rifle I did the exact same thing, including two fingers tight. EDIT: STAG says 25 inch/lbs for the handguard screw.
 
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