Stag 10 issues?

alphamale

Member
Rating - 100%
139   0   1
Location
Newbrunswick
Just putting out a feeler..I just got my new stag 10 .308 GI the other day and it is having failure to eject issues . I fired a 5 round mag and out of those 5 rounds two of them stove piped. I shot 5 rounds of 7.62x 51mm and it had a FTE each time . I’m wondering if the gas system needs to be adjusted? Or if anyone is having the same issue..and what is the proper fix for this?
 
My GI MLOK in .308 came with a canted Gas Block and loose securing screws. As a result my initial performance was plagued by Failures to Eject and/or failure to pick up the base of the subsequent round in the Magazine. New Stag 10 owners need to check the position of their Gas Block in relation to the Gas Port located at 12:00 O'clock on the Barrel. Then tighten down the screws and use blue Loctite to gum the threads so that they don't back out with use. Before hitting the range make sure to wet-lubricate the inside of the Upper Receiver and the bearing surfaces of the Bolt Carrier and Bolt. You wiĺl need to run the gun wet with lube for the first couple of hundred rounds until things settle into place and initial wear occurs to bearing surfaces. The Stag 10s seem to run on the ragged edge of reliability, particularly with 7.62x51mm surplus ammo versus commercial .308 cal - at least for the first few hundred rounds leading to break-in. This is not necessarily a "bad thing", as the Stag rifles appear to not be deliberately over-gassed as is the case with so many direct-impingement .308 ARs. This typically means a better balanced operating system with a more gentle extraction cycle, less perceived recoil and reduced wear/battering to the Bolt-Carrier Group and the Lower Receiver Extension (aka: the Buffer Tube).
 
Canted gas block. Corrected it and it's still crap. Just another 308 gas gun turd.

What were your other discouraging encounters with .308 gas guns? Just curious, as I've had good fortune with an old-school Armalite AR10, a Christensen Arms CA10, and most recently (pre-Stag) a Lewis Machine and Tool Modular Weapon System. The LMT MWS in particular, has performed exceptionally well in terms of both reliability and accuracy.
 
First thing I do with a new gun is go over it and check for anything that doesn't seem right like loose screws, misaligned parts, improperly installed parts or even missing parts. I may not catch everything but I have found issues that would definitely effect function if not noticed.

Second thing I do is clean it. That oil that comes on it from factory isn't the type of oil that you apply when using the firearm. It's more of a preservative or rust inhibitor (for lack of a proper term) and it's only purpose is to protect the firearm until it reaches the customer. It's often thicker and stickier and will prevent things from running as smooth and could potentially cause things to gum up if it's not removed before use.

Third thing I do is reassemble the firearm after cleaning without reapplying oil. I then sit and fully cycle the action dry about a hundred or more times. This actually helps to wear in any mating or contact points that could cause enough friction to inhibit initial function.

Fourthly I then apply a coat of gun oil to all moving parts and friction surfaces.

Lastly I go shoot.

I've found this greatly reduces the possibility of function issues with a brand new gas gun.
 
Im new at this, but I assembled two of these and both ran 100%.
I find it odd that trained professionals are missing steps?
Maybe it’s due to the high volume of sales? Or user issues?
 
Not sure, going to check the gas system today, I know I found 3 screws on my hand guard loose enough that I could turn them easily and without any resistance at all. Likely the same is going to be found with the gas block.
 
Alpha!
I had the same issue...
Not sure if I over oiled, and oil got into the gas block / return but it seemed to slowly get better after a hundred rounds.
As in, my 10 lb single shot rifle turned into 3 out of 5 that cycled.

A buddy of mine verified the gas block, tightened it up, and had a blast going through my ammo. lol.
Supposedly all is good now.

His report shows 2 moa (+ one flyer) using surplus 7.62x51 (yes, the 7.62 cycles once the rifle functions properly)

Next up is test the Barnes TTSX 168s. (If surplus runs, this should run)
 
Alpha!
I had the same issue...
Not sure if I over oiled, and oil got into the gas block / return but it seemed to slowly get better after a hundred rounds.
As in, my 10 lb single shot rifle turned into 3 out of 5 that cycled.

A buddy of mine verified the gas block, tightened it up, and had a blast going through my ammo. lol.
Supposedly all is good now.

His report shows 2 moa (+ one flyer) using surplus 7.62x51 (yes, the 7.62 cycles once the rifle functions properly)

Next up is test the Barnes TTSX 168s. (If surplus runs, this should run)
Nice! Thanks for the info!
 
So far some came with the wrong rear takedown pin, and some had issues cycling, as well as some bolts we're defective (and no grooves for the forward assist)

All of these are quickly remedied by armseast.

I agree that for a 2k rifle, it should be tested prior to delivery, but it's a small price to pay to get us these rifles in Canada so quickly.

I for one am loving it so far. So much that I'm debating investing into a lighter barrel and handguard to make it that much better for my hunting purposes.
 
Canted gas block. Corrected it and it's still crap. Just another 308 gas gun turd.

Did you leave a space between the gas block and shoulder as the gap is used for a mil-spec endcap? If it is touching you have covered the gas port.
 
To those that have had issues with the gas block being off centre, how much are we talking about? Mine has had feeding issues and I checked it, it is off buy only a touch, maybe a 1/8th inch off centre. Is that enough to affect the gas supply?
 
Back
Top Bottom