Stalingrad tractor works track link.
- Thread starter JTF#
- Start date
the T-34 will be non-restricted once I get the rest of the parts for it!
its just a little too far gone for sand blasting. I have used the electro method for a lot of little parts but this one isn't really to bad I am just going to clean it by hand. I might put a coat of black paint on it like it came from the factory but it might be a little too rough. maybe the clear coat would be a better idea. you can get all kinds of T34 tracks in much better shape I just have not seen another STZ track.
its just a little too far gone for sand blasting. I have used the electro method for a lot of little parts but this one isn't really to bad I am just going to clean it by hand. I might put a coat of black paint on it like it came from the factory but it might be a little too rough. maybe the clear coat would be a better idea. you can get all kinds of T34 tracks in much better shape I just have not seen another STZ track.
It will also peen & abrade any faint marking into non existence. I have mucho experience blasting a variety of materials using various media. No track sections but lots steel/ iron. I could erase casting numbers in an engine block with my old blaster.
No offense here but I think you are doing something totally wrong if your blasting as you say and washing off casting numbers and such. And here is why I say what I say. I had to get about 100 cast kettenkrad tracks blasted and outside of blasting off the scale and rust it just takes the crap off, all the fine, dinky casting numbers are still there, even the NSU "swoosh" cast into the sections popped up out of the rust and dirt. And I may add these are VERY fine cast numbers and details.
I sent the whole body in for sandblasting which is all sheet metal and everything came out excellent, even the original, hand stamped, vehicle serial numbers on the steering knuckle popped. So again if your damaging your parts by sandblasting I would look into what you are doing wrong. Sandblasting a old track section will not destroy it.
Last edited:
antiqueguy
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- windsor ontario
t 34's are no longer regulated from what I read any military vehicles that were first produced before 1946 are no longer regulated same go's for big guns
Coyote Ugly
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
I'll bet a Tiger Tank shot the T34's turret right off and into Orbit...
I just thought you guys might find this interesting. its an STZ produced model 1942 track link for the T 34 tank. I found it in my relic searching. it comes from Estonia. it still needs cleaning.
No offense here but I think you are doing something totally wrong if your blasting as you say and washing off casting numbers and such. And here is why I say what I say. I had to get about 100 cast kettenkrad tracks blasted and outside of blasting off the scale and rust it just takes the crap off, all the fine, dinky casting numbers are still there, even the NSU "swoosh" cast into the sections popped up out of the rust and dirt. And I may add these are VERY fine cast numbers and details.
I sent the whole body in for sandblasting which is all sheet metal and everything came out excellent, even the original, hand stamped, vehicle serial numbers on the steering knuckle popped. So again if your damaging your parts by sandblasting I would look into what you are doing wrong. Sandblasting a old track section will not destroy it.
I am not going to comment again so we dont derail the thread but are you sure they used sand? Maybe it was glass bead, or slag or steel shot or the various carbides? Not many use silica anymore due to that nasty cancer business but some still do. I did the serial obliteration to demonstrate what a 1" nozzle at 120 psi could do to cast iron when using silica through my custom pressure sandblaster.
yeah, you dont sandblast sheet metal, it will warp, its likely soda blasting. the soda is a finer softer media often used to strip paint off cars etc.
Desporterizer, yes it was sand used in the sandblaster. Scott585, yes you can use can sandblast, with sand, sheet metal. If you are unskilled at sandblasting then you will heat anneal panels, warp the hell out of them and generally make a mess of things. My "restoration mentor" David Crompton in Michigan sends entire schwimmer and kubel bodies off for sandblasting and outside of crap, rust and umpteen layers of old paint being removed they come out fine. And my guy (in Almonte ON) does a first rate job on all work I have taken to him, that said I have also had one bozo pretty much trash a jeep hood for me. Anyways not to beat a dog to death on this any further you can sandblast a track section with no harm done to it AND you can sandblast sheet metal panels, so whatever route the OP decides that's his call.
Last edited:
Use POR 15 on it, it will seal the surface rock hard,
I have used por 15 on something alot bigger than that 8)
I have used por 15 on something alot bigger than that 8)
antiqueguy
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- windsor ontario
generally on sheet metal when it warps it gets flimsy and will be easily moves with the hand this also happens when its stretched from a big dent nothing heating with a torch and cooling rapidly can't fix then the hammer and dolly work starts
Canadian tire carries it, also many body shop supplies and in the end, there are dealers of it online. Its not cheap, but it works wonders with rusty,pitted etc metal. Only issue is its not great on fresh clean virgin metal, as it uses the rusty/pitted seasoned surface to adhere too it
