Steel or Aluminum Rings?

strider007

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Hey guys...

I'm new to the rifle scene, and in the midst of trying to figure out what all of the precision shooting terminology means, I'm kinda' stumped between steel and aluminum rings. Is there a difference between the two? Does one have certain advantages over the other, or does it simply come down to the weight difference between them?

If anyone can shed a bit of light on this for me, I'd greatly appreciate it.
 
Steel rings are generally strnger than aluminum rings, and aluminum rings are lighter than steel. When you get in to high quality rings and mounts (Warne, Leupold, Badger, LaRue, ADM etc.) you find a mix of both, and they're all generally comparable in strength and quality.

If you're on a bit more of a budget (i.e. $200 for a set of Badger Ordnance rings is too much), I've been quite impressed with the Weaver Tactical line of rings/mounts.
 
I just picked up a Dnz game reaper scope mount for my tikka. Like you, I am a newb. I got it because of good reviews and ease of use. It's a one piece, base and rings all machined out of one block of aluminum. I think the only downfall of aluminum is that you have to be extra careful of torquing the screws down. It's pretty easy to strip out a 6-48 thread in aluminum if your not careful. The good thing about the DNZ design is that there is about 1/2" of thread length the ring screws feed into. Tmi, I know. I get carried away.
 
I just picked up a Dnz game reaper scope mount for my tikka. Like you, I am a newb. I got it because of good reviews and ease of use. It's a one piece, base and rings all machined out of one block of aluminum. I think the only downfall of aluminum is that you have to be extra careful of torquing the screws down. It's pretty easy to strip out a 6-48 thread in aluminum if your not careful. The good thing about the DNZ design is that there is about 1/2" of thread length the ring screws feed into. Tmi, I know. I get carried away.

You should put around 15lbs of torque on your rings Screws and around 65lbs on the screw that attached your ring to your base...
 
You should put around 15lbs of torque on your rings Screws and around 65lbs on the screw that attached your ring to your base...

Yep, thats all you gotta know really. A little bit of lapping might not hurt.

As a matter of interest, USO, maker of the best rifle scopes in the world, primarily offer aluminum rings stating that there is nothing whatever to be gained by specifying steel ones, which they will also make for you if you want em. :)
 
You should put around 15lbs of torque on your rings Screws and around 65lbs on the screw that attached your ring to your base...

Whoa there.
A torque spec is a force 'through a distance'.
It is crucial to specify inch-pounds if that is what you mean and 15 seems awfully high for #6-48 in aluminum
65 inch-pounds is just crazy.
 
That's the spec for my EGW rings.... And yes inch-pounds... Thought everybody would know..

http://www.egwguns.com/scope-rings/egw-hd-tactical-aluminum-rings-.990-ring-height/
We recommend that you torque the crossbolts of our HD Rings to 65 inch pounds, and the top screws to 15 inch pounds.

Same spec for leupolds.... And badger ordnance...

Vortex:
http://www.vortexoptics.com/product/vortex-precision-matched-rings-30mm-riflescope-low-height
45-50 inch pounds and 15-18 inch-pounds

Warne are at 25 inch-pounds.. And 65 inch-pounds crossbolt
http://warnescopemounts.com/help-faqs/
Q: How tight should I tighten the ring screws?
A: We recommend 25 in/lb torque on all of our Maxima ring screws. The use of our TW1 25 in/lb torque wrench will assure you of properly tightened ring screws as well as base screws.
Q: There are two ½ inch nuts on the side of my R.A.M.P. mount, how tight should I tighten these nuts down?
A: Both our R.A.M.P. mount and our Maxima Tactical Ring nuts are designed to be torqued down to 65 in/lb. Our TW65, 65 in/lb torque wrench, will assure you that you’re right on spec.

And in that post too....
http://www.canadiangunnutz.com/forum/showthread.php?816691-Torque-on-rings

I have nothing else to say.... :ang3
 
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I just picked up a Dnz game reaper scope mount for my tikka. Like you, I am a newb. I got it because of good reviews and ease of use. It's a one piece, base and rings all machined out of one block of aluminum. I think the only downfall of aluminum is that you have to be extra careful of torquing the screws down. It's pretty easy to strip out a 6-48 thread in aluminum if your not careful. The good thing about the DNZ design is that there is about 1/2" of thread length the ring screws feed into. Tmi, I know. I get carried away.

You should put around 15lbs of torque on your rings Screws and around 65lbs on the screw that attached your ring to your base...
That's the spec for my EGW rings.... And yes inch-pounds... Thought everybody would know.

The 65 inch-pound spec from EGW is for a chromaloy steel bolt with steel nut, size not mentioned.

Quoting torque specs without being really careful leads to grief.
IMO you should have posted what your spec. applied to in the first place, along with 'inch-pounds'.

Sorry to be so picky, hopefully it results in less grief.
 
6-48 thread in aluminum

These should be torque around 15 inch- pounds....

Every rings maker put there specs around 15 inch-pounds on the top screws....some more.... I would really like to know what kind of rings model you guys have that cannot take 15 inch-pound.... Even my 40$ air rifle rings took that and 60inch-pound for the base crossbolt screw... And they are hell cheapo....

Anyways..... Follow the specs that comes with your rings.... It should be around what I already mention or in the link in my last post...... I have already wasted to much time on this....

Like I already said... Buy good quality rings..... and you won't have any problem torquing them the right amount..... If you buy cheap rings....be ready to have some problem... you won't be saving at the right place...

And like somebody already answered you:


Torque is a difficult feel to describe in words.
I've sometimes shown people by saying "Gimme your finger", then pushing it the right amount.
Then I hand them the allen key because the length of the key is critical.

You've got a good start because you asked.
My first advise is 'Tighten the screws way too loose'.

Second is this:
Set the scope on the bottom half of the rings and place one top half.
Then gently tighten those screws until you can no longer rotate the scope.
I think you'll be surprised at how little torque keeps the tube from rotating.
Put the other top half on with the same light hand.

Check the screws every time you shoot for a while so you know they aren't backing out and you'll be good.

Bear in mind, none of this comes from firearms experience.


Quite possibly you have not experienced the recoil of a rifle... if you shot a rifle with a scope as loose as you describe, the chances of the scope moving forward in the rings would be great. Point of impact would not be consistent and eventually the scope would be damaged when the turret or rear of the scope sat in contact with a ring and the recoil continued.
 
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Like explained on SniperCounty:

The (4) small #8 screws on the top of the 30mm ring can be torqued to 20 inch pounds and the (4) small #6 screws on the top of the 1" ring can be torqued to 10 inch pounds. If the base uses four #6 screws they can be torqued to 15 inch pounds These inch pounds settings are not large numbers. Do not tighten any more then necessary as it could damage your scope. PLEASE CHECK YOUR TORQUE WRENCH TO MAKE SURE IT IS INCH POUNDS AND NOT FOOT POUNDS!

Only the large cross bolt that attaches the ring to the base should be torqued to 65 inch pounds.

http://www.go2gbo.com/forums/index.php?topic=195151.0

Re: How many inch pounds for scope ring screws?
« Reply #5 on: January 09, 2010, 07:40:11 PM »
From Leupold...


http://www2.leupold.com/resources/M...okPageId=6afe62f0-e18d-46fd-a1ac-403bcd15d9ff

What amount of toque do I use on the ring screws?

We recommend that you use 29 inch pounds maximum on the Ring screws to properly secure the scope in the rings.



http://www2.leupold.com/resources/M...okPageId=580b77e3-ee48-4e74-873a-d9222cbd9c12
*
What is the torque spec for the Rifleman ring keeper screw?

The torque specification for the Rifleman ring keeper screw is 14 inch pounds ( ± 2 in. lb. ).



http://www2.leupold.com/resources/M...okPageId=55e3aa84-e1da-4853-a889-a9a75d66b278

*What is the Proper Amount of Torque for Torx Screws?
The tightening of Torx screws on Leupold products is not best explained in terms of inch pounds or any other torque measurement. Specific torque measurements are generally only found on items that are both under the control of the same manufacturer, as in the case of the Leupold Mark 4 ring cross bolt, for which 65 inch pounds are recommended for proper installation. In cases where Leupold screws are being installed into other manufacturers products, as is the case with all firearms, we advise that screws be tightened until secure. This is always best done by feel; if the screw feels securely snug, it generally is.


http://www.go2gbo.com/forums/index.php/topic,191112.msg1098959491.html#msg1098959491

Re: How many inch pounds for scope ring screws?
« Reply #6 on: January 10, 2010, 11:59:23 AM »
Can a base be over tightened against a receiver?* I'm in the habit of tightening them as tight as possible.* I now have a torque wrench.

Re: How many inch pounds for scope ring screws?
« Reply #7 on: January 10, 2010, 12:57:07 PM »
I use 24 in/lbs for 6-48 screws and have never had a problem, using a thread locker like purple Loctite is likely the most important thing to do on base screws.

Tim

And a lot more specs here for a lot more rings!! and always around the same numbers!!
http://www.opticstalk.com/torque-specs_topic18389.html

For Talleys rings
7. Torque recommendations: For the lightweight alloy mounts: 20-25 in-lb for the base, 17 in-lb for the rings. Steel: bases 20-25 in-lb. Fixed rings, bottom screw 35 in-lb, top screw 17-24 in-lb. Detachable rings: large bottom screw 35 in-lb, small bottom screws 30 in-lb, top screws 17-24 in-lb. We do not recommend using Loctite but if you choose to do so then we recommend that you use a NON-permanent kind of Loctite.


http://www.longrangehunting.com/forums/f37/whats-torque-spec-6-48-base-screws-84397/
Torque specs? - THR
6-48 Base Screws @ 22 inch/lbs
8-40 Base Screws @ 28 inch/lbs
8-40 Ring Screws @ 28 inch/lbs
Ring windage screws @ 45 inch/lbs

http://snipersparadise.com/bits-o-wisdom/basics/79-installing-mounts-rings-and-scopes
1. Degrease all the mounting holes in the receiver. I use denatured alcohol

2. I wipe a little oil on the receiver and the bottom of the base. This is to help prevent rust between the receiver and the base, Don't get the oil in the mounting holes that you already degreased.

3. Degrease the mounting screws and mount the base to the receiver. I use a little blue Loctite. Tighten the base to the rifle @ 15 inch/pounds. If you don't have a 15 in/lb torque wrench, then use the L-shaped wrench that comes with the mount. Insert the long end of the L into the mounting screws and grasp the short end with your thumb and index finger. Tighten as much as you comfortably can, that'll be roughly 15 in/lbs.

4. Figure out where you want the rings placed and mount the bottom halves to the base. I apply pressure to the rear of the bottom halves, pushing them so that the crossbolt is bearing against the front of the cross slot in the base. Torque to 65 in/lbs (this is what most of the "tactical" rings with the large mounting nut call for, check the directions that come with yours). You'll have to constantly check your eye relief with the scope sitting in the bottom halves to figure out where you want the rings. I like them spaced as far apart as possible. Also, I place the rings so the mounting bolts are on the opposite side of the ejection port. Keeps stuff out of the way of the port, where you will be working when you shoot.

But we are probably all wrong.....:confused:
 
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I just received my Tikka and installed the DNZ game reaper and my scope. Dnz instructions strictly said NO threadlocker. The instructions also said 20-23 in/lbs. I used 50 in/lbs to mount the unit to the receiver and 20 in/lbs for the rings. Seems solid and no stripping.
 
Thanks for all of the technical input, guys. I think that I like the "get a good set or rings, either steel or aluminum" suggestion. I think that if you're gonna' spend a few good bucks on a set of rings, whether they are steel or aluminum, provided you follow the manufacturers installation recommendations, you should be fine. Now with that being said, steel or aluminum rings for $20, can't possibly compare to steel or aluminum rings $100+...which goes right back to "get yourself a good set of rings"...

Thanks guys...
 
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