steel or brass?

silverado7

Regular
EE Expired
Rating - 100%
36   0   0
i've been having accuracy problems with my 280. i've tried different loads, different oal, different 'pills', but was always using the 'steel' cases(got them from fired silvertips) with no luck! but if i use some old loads with brass casings they group within 1/4"! could the 'steel' casings be my problem?
hope you guys understand what i'm trying to get across...
thanks
 
by steel are you talking nickle plated brass or real steel as in military surpless cases

280 that would be nickle plated brass, unless its a strange wildcat
 
Last edited:
The only difference between 'nickel' and brass cases is the finish. Actually both type of cases are brass, except that one recieved a nickel plating in order to obtain a smooth surface and to protect from oxydation in order to obtain a smoother and more reliable feeding.

The drawback of nickel plating is that nickel is a much harder metal than brass, and when sizing, it causes the brass to be harder and more brittle. Also since it is a 'composite' metal (three layers of metal : nickel-brass-nickel) the behavior of the case may differ from a 100% brass case, altough would not be a major incidence factor.

Bottom line, nickel-plated cases and brass cases are almost the same, except for life-span and the 'look-cool-factor'. It may be part of the problem, but I highly doubt that it is a major part of the problem.
 
There is differences between all brass. Brass from different manufacturers may have enough variance in internal dimensions to change pressures considerably with the same powder/primer/bullet charge. If they are not working for you, then chuck them and use brass; nicer to use anyway IMO.

Ian
 
Back
Top Bottom