Steel shot for Geese.

What sort of blinds in fields do you guys typically run?

I have a few different layout blinds. Most times I am either hunting out of a Final Approach S.U.B (not the express eliminator model, it is a piece of crap) or my Avery Migrator M2. Both are great blinds if you can drive into the field you are hunting to set out your gear. The M2 breaks down for backpacking but it is a real PITA to do and it weighs in at 22 pounds! I leave it fully assembled and throw it in the enclosed trailer.The sub folds down not too bad but still not well enough if you have carry it any distance. I like the extra depth and room inside the M2 being a big guy. The sub is ok early season for me but when I have to get heavy clothes on it becomes too shallow and my shoulders are always pushing the doors open when I try to call. If you are average build you will be fine. I also have a FA X-Lander, I use it if we have to carry a blind or decoys any distance. It has a built gun scabbard and underseat storage that will hold 4 dozen silohuette decoys when folded. It also means I can stick my flag in the gun scabbard and throw the whole works on my back for when I can't drive into the field. When that situation occurs I hunt with silo's exclusively as well because toting full bodies and shells is a pain. I wouldn't reccomend anything along the lines of a power hunter or edge layout chair with a blanket style cover. They are not worth the $$. Buy yourself a decent layout blind with a padded gun rest, inner shell and gear pockets, flag storage sleeves and a good padded back and headrest. My buddies bought 3 Hard Core Man Caves this fall from Roger's Sporting Goods for $139 ea and they are probably the best built and designed blinds I have seen produced. I will be ordering one for myself for next season. They even have a removable pillow that can secure to the backrest for your head or butt!! Yes your butt can get sore from extended periods on hard ground.....:D

A very good piece of advice to share when buying a layout blind..........do NOT waste your money on camo colours. Some companies/models are as much as $100 price difference for camo. Save your $$$ and if it is available in Khaki or Field Brown run with that. The stubble straps on the blinds are there for a reason, for you to camo the blind so it blends to it's surroundings. All fields have dirt bottoms( I know, hard to believe isn't it?! ;) and can sometimes show alot of the bare ground through the vegetation if it is sparse. You want to blend with that. Also should you find yourself in a situation where you are hunting a plowed or bare mud field or a sand bar, mud bar or beach along water the bare brown will blend better than camo. Camo sticks out on bare fields and sand/mud bars.
 
We also run the sub, m2 and express, but we prefer the express most of the time. They have a much lower profile and are great when hunting grain and millet. If we are hunting a combined field, then we break out the SUB.
 
I patterned some kent tungsten matrix and kent all purpose steel shells. Both patterned well but the #2 steel shot penetrated about 1/4" into the wood of the target stand at 40 yards. The #1 tungsten matrix blew through about 5/8" of wood and caused massive splintering and destruction of the wood. After that, I was convinced.
 
I've found that the #1 steel shot is a very happy medium for goose and duck. It patterns very well too. Only problem is that its not very common around here. I've ordered a few flats from a local Kent dealer here, haven't seen them yet though.
 
Kent Fasteel 3" #2. It makes you look good. DRT'd a big honker at around 45y with my 20ga last weekend. Surely, if I can do that with a 20, the 12 can reach em too.
 
All I use is Black Cloud, 3.5" BB for geese and 3" #4's for duckies. If I am hunting both at the same time, its #2's.

At 30yds, most shots are through and through, and rarely is a second shot needed. I shoot for the neck where it meets the body, there's more of a chance that I am going to hit something vital. If you just shoot at the neck, your pattern may not be tight enough to put a lethal amount of pellets in there. Change your point of aim, or change your choke. I am shooting a mod choke currently.
 
I don't like the patterns I was getting with BC...mainly use Kent steel and Hevi-Metal. 3" #2 and #3 for ducks, 3.5" BB which seems to be the general concensus here. I can't recall crippling any last year, and the ones I've shot this year dropped dead. Shooting a maxus with WadWizard Supreme choke and it's treated me good thus far. I agree with what mvarley84 said....try a different point of aim or choke.
 
I do the best with Kent. #2 and 3 for ducks. 3.5 BB or #2 for Geese.

Anything else and I get cripples or have to fire finishing shots.

I use a browning gold with the modified choke (stock)
 
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