Steel Shot in SxS for Upland - School me

hansol

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Hi Guys,

Haven't been posting on the CGN much these last couple years. Kinda got busy with life and all that, but for the Holidays I acquired a new-to-me 16 gauge Bayard hammer gun (proofed for modern smokeless). I'm curious about the intricacies of loading steel shot in a shotgun for upland purposes, but I want to note a few points first before getting any further:

- Firstly, I realize that any chokes tighter than modified are a no-no. Makes sense to me, as steel doesn't like to compress in comparison with lead or other softer shot.
- Secondly, why am I using steel for upland? Because I have a 16 gauge (ammo can be hard to find) and because I like to reload my own low(er) pressure shells. Finding a source of lead shot to purchase is seemingly impossible in my neck of the woods, where-as with steel, I have easily-sourced local options.
- Thirdly, in all my reading I understand that modern shot cups for steel protect the barrel from scratches and/or bridging issues.

So with that out of the way, I'm curious about the details of hunting upland game with steel shot. I've been going over the regular forums trying to soak up what I can, and came up with the following generalities, but I'd like the more experienced shooters to lend their voices to validate or toss out the points:

1. Steel is lighter than lead. Therefore an equivalent-weight/equivalent-size load of steel shot will contain more pellets than a lead load. Or in simpler terms: a pounds of bricks vs. a pound of feathers: they both still weigh a pound, but you're gonna need a heck of a lot of feathers...

2. With steel being lighter than lead, it also sheds velocity faster. Similar to throwing a pingpong ball: you can throw it really fast, but as soon as it leaves your hand it slows down incredibly quickly. My understanding is to remedy this, shooters will load "two shot sizes larger" in order to get an equivalent weight in steel. In other words, load steel #4's in place of lead #6's. My thoughts are that with a load of steel #4's vs. lead #6's, your steel pattern is going to have less pellets, reducing the effectiveness of the load, all things being equal?

3. How does steel retain velocity in relation to lead in the above scenario? Thinking out loud, but if a #4 steel shot ball vs. a #6 lead shot ball both have similar "weights", I want to think that the two balls will retain similar velocities through their travel.

4. Terminal ballistics. My understanding is steel will never equal lead (or hevi shot/bismuth/nice shot etc) in terms of terminal ballistics. I've heard that a shot at the back on a big pheasant rooster flying away from you is a bugger with steel, and that some guys have resorted to using #2 steel to mitigate this. What I don't know is how well lead shot compared for those raking-away shots? Does lead simply negate this issue, or is that rooster in that scenario just as tough to whack with lead?

5. Lastly, with regards to chokes, my understanding is that steel shot doesn't need as much choke to pattern the same way as a lead load. I guess another way to say this is that if you want lead to pattern like a full choke, you get a full choke - if you want steel to pattern like a full choke, you can use a modified choke. This leads me to wonder how birds fair on those short shots, especially with a load of #4 (or even #2 as described about) at 10-15 yards. With the steel patterning "tighter", and using larger shot, I would think that close up shots on upland with steel would really make a mess of the bird.

6. I'm told that with steel, you want velocity. With my limited understanding of ballastics mainly stemming from rifles, if you want more velocity, you wind up increasing both pressures and recoil. I believe this is an issue in older guns, as a slim, straight-stocked hammer gun is not typically built to withstand crazy recoil. Additionally, increasing pressures is not something I want to do on an older gun either, not necessarily because the gun can't withstand "modern loads", but more-so a personal choice: if I can fire two loads, both sending the shot out at 1200fps, one doing it at 6000psi and the other at 10,000psi, I will choose the 6k one every time. So with that being said, I guess my question is can steel shot leaving the barrel at around 1200-1300psi still be "effective" at 35 yards, or not so much?

Okay guys there's my long-winded Friday morning pontificating. Again, I'd like to point out that I'm new to upland hunting and am pretty green, so if I've erred anywhere please let me know. I am not however new to shotgun reloading (some may remember the slug loads I developed a few years ago) or rifle reloading, so feel free to bust out the technical jargon if necessary. Thanks and Merry Christmas -Hansol
 
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First, the best way to reload for older guns is by using lead - or, if you can't use lead, then, the other best is to use Bismuth or ITX pellets. The reloading datas are much easier to find in say, 16ga.
My experience is using steel (20 ga) shots at close range (say, 5 to 15 meters) is that the pattern does not grow enough yet and most of the times, destroys the "target".
I can't see no advantage in reloading steel shots for old shotguns - most of the times, they are tight choked and you will have to have the original choke reamed to be able to use it.

Then, even if your gun was proofed for "mordern" pressure, you have to determine for which pressure range it was re-proofed.

As I see, you're in AB, and there is a guy close by you, Will Bilozir, at w w w.bilozir.net - They sell everything you need to reload for older guns.
 
Don't think I'd consider steel for an old shotgun. If you want to play with stuff like that, you have to work more at finding stuff to do it with.
"...steel doesn't like to compress..." More that it just does not than how it feels.
 
Brutus has it........ Unless you're shooting waterfowl ......... Use lead shot.......... I don't think you have to use non tox on upland birds anywhere in Canada (yet)


But ..... If you are shooting waterfowl, Will Bilozar is the guy to talk to.

He got me reloading 16ga (supplies everything you need) Now happily shooting ducks again with my fav SxS.

#5 Bismuth is a beauty duck load in my 16 .......


Lucky
 
Hi guys,

I certainly appreciate the replies, but instead of turning this into a lead vs steel vs other heavy metal discussion, I'd like to try and keep it based around shooting steel for upland. So let's imagine the following:

- Lead shot is banned for all migratory and upland hunting in the US and Canada.
- Bismuth/Nice shot/Tungsten prices go up to $500 all-in for 3 lbs, or essentially $10.42 per ounce due to the yankees buying up all the supply and us Canucks being gouged *cough 2008 large rifle primers cough*
- Steel is the cheapest shot option, at $60 for 25lbs, or $0.15/ounce.

Based on previous research and discussion, I think as long as a guy has little to no choke on the gun, uses proper for-steel wads or mylar wraps, and doesn't go crazy on the pressure/speed (for argument sake lets say no loads generating greater than 10,000 psi), I don't see a reason why steel wouldn't work safely. Whether it works WELL however, is a different story. And I guess that is the purpose of my post: to try and learn the most effective tricks and methods in order to safely wring out the most effective performance from steel shot loads for upland game.

Again, my concerns would be having to use oversize steel shot in order to get effective velocity retention/terminal ballistics, and thus limiting the number of projectiles in the pattern. Additionally, with steel patterning tighter than lead, damage to the bird at short ranges could be a real problem I would think, and as Baribol points out.

Solutions I suppose would be to basically wait the bird out until it gets further away before taking the shot. Or possibly load a smaller shot size, in theory increasing pattern sizes at the shorter distance, but at the expense of downrange performance.

*As an aside, don't get me wrong. I'm going to shoot lead #6 loads for as long as I can. I get factory 16 gauge loads when I can and stock up, and have already contacted Canadian sources for lead, so that I can stockpile. And I will do that for as long as we are allowed to shoot lead. The benefits of lead are astronomical in comparison with steel, so I'm certainly not burying my head in the sand.

Additionally, I'm not suggesting a person start blasting steel loads out of a mint display-grade H&H 20 gauge that has full chokes. My SxS is by most people's standards "Just Another Belgian Clunker" that bubba had already got to. I've since restored and repaired it properly and have it looking good again, but I enjoy shooting my guns, not looking at them on the wall. And if using steel is the only way to economically keep shooting them, then that would be an option I would take.*
 
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Well - you answered your own question - going down in shot size compensates for the lesser density of steel, as far as ballistics are concerned. Its not strictly a question of pellet weight, but one of surface volume as well.
The trend to go to extreme velocities for steel is more hype than substance, as the drag is a function of velocity squared - meaning that the additional velocity is quickly dissipated, and you only get a few extra yards of range for a substantial increase in chamber pressure.
As far as pattern is concerned, of course the larger shot will offer a more coarse pattern, but each pellet has more damage potential. FWIW - I've shot grouse and crows using #3 steel shot in 2 3/4 inch shells , well out to 35 to 40 yards.
 
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I hate steel shot. I use #2 and BBs for ducks and it works. Kinda. For doves I've tried various loadings. #8 steel just insults doves at 30 yards #7 steel tickles doves at 30 yards #6 kills doves to 35 yards. Pheasant can be tough I'd go one barrel #4 one barrel #6. Save the larger for further shots. With steel I've found no reason to use higher then 1350 fps. Best of luck
 
If you are running tight chokes it doesn't matter WHAT is coming out of the gun!
I've blown the heads clean off ducks with steel and blown the heads clean off pheasants with lead- both with sub gauge guns!
One year Hornhead and I shot at the same time on a rooster (and it was not that close either) and one wing came flying off it and pinwheeling down!
I thought the thing was demolished , but nope, hit the head and grazed the breast was all.
Because steel is lighter than lead, you are going to put more pellets in a 1 oz load of steel than lead, so technically if you go with steel 5's or 4's you should not have to much of an issue with too many pellets in the bird .
Also , because your ranges SHOULD for all intent and purpose be closer with pheasants and ruffies than with waterfowl, you should not have to push the shot charge as fast.
What are you planning on using for components?
I'm not sure how old your gun is, but the barrel may be made of softer steel and even though you are using modern wads, you could very well do some damage to it.
I have to order in all my components , including lead and Bismuth for my guns, but have a shotmaker now.
Depending on how much you intend to shoot , that would be an option as well.

Cat
 
Cat,

Components I have two options: either order it in, or do some wildcatting.

BPI apparently has a really really good wad (vp80) for steel in 16 gauge, so that would be ideal. I'd combine that with Federal hulls and go from there. I like Federal because that big straight-wall hull helps keep pressures down. If I do put in an order though, I'll try and grab a few other general components as well, given that I'm already paying for shipping from the US.

The other option would be to use my supply of SP16 wads with a mylar wrap (or some sort of heavy plastic wrap) around the steel, and go from there. I know in the shotgunner world, it's a mortal sin and enough to get you flayed when you deviate from The Man's reloading recipes, but I've already dealt with that when I made my copper slugs for the 12 gauge, so I'm no stranger to wildcatting shotgun components and accordingly have a thick skin from it.

Thanks again for everyone who has shared info to this point. It's certainly nice to know that there are a few people out there who have chased grouse and pheasant with steel.
 
There are several steel loads in 3/4oz and one in 7/8 oz shot payloads that would work in the Lyman 5th
The VP80 is pretty much identical the the BPMM16 wad, so no issues there.
Mylar would be a good idea as well.
BTW, I would make sure my barrels re not choked too tight to begin with!
Some older full choked guns tend to be pretty tight unless they are worn at the muzzle.


Cat
 
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