Steel Shot, Older Gun...

I would recommend not shooting steel out of older guns, especially full choke barrels. Steel shot is so hard it can hurt the barrel. A cheap remington 870 or mossberg 500 will set you back 200$. Spend the 200$ and try duck and goose hunting, once you fall in love, shoot that 200$ gun until you have the 800$+ saved up to buy your expensive semi auto or expensive pump gun. That's what I did, then sold my cheap pump after one season and picked up a couple benelli super
Nova's and now I'd never go back!
 
Steel shot won't cause pitting---poor cleaning and poor storage causes pitting.

Not pitting, but the steel of the shot is often harder than he steel in old shotgun barrels. This can lead to horrific scoring of the bore. Considering how inexpensive a new Remington 870 or even a Benelli Nova is, I see no reason to mess around with old shotguns trying to make it so they won't blow up in your face because you're trying to make it shoot shot it wasn't designed to.
 
Not pitting, but the steel of the shot is often harder than he steel in old shotgun barrels. This can lead to horrific scoring of the bore. Considering how inexpensive a new Remington 870 or even a Benelli Nova is, I see no reason to mess around with old shotguns trying to make it so they won't blow up in your face because you're trying to make it shoot shot it wasn't designed to.

There was an article I read a couple of years ago that was written by a ballistics expert working for one of the major ammo manufactures. Wished I could find it. Anyhow, in the article he stated that scoring of the bores from steel loads of recent years is a myth. Might have been a bit of a problem when steel shot first came out but times change and there has been advancement in steel shot shells. He claims the shot now rides in a differently designed shot cup and the shot does not touch the bore. Not sure why the gun would blow up in your face because of using steel loads if the gun is made for modern pressures. If the gun is not designed for modern pressure loads, that's a whole different thing and it makes no difference if it's steel or lead. A high pressure load is a high pressure load and should not be shot in guns not designed for them.
 
I have video of me blowing up my Grandfather's Cooey Sure Shot by doing just this. As for the danger, the chunk of choke is visible bouncing off the OHP just behind and above my melon. I'll have to post the link again...
 
I have video of me blowing up my Grandfather's Cooey Sure Shot by doing just this. As for the danger, the chunk of choke is visible bouncing off the OHP just behind and above my melon. I'll have to post the link again...

Yes, this has just been mentioned in another thread that is running (probably your gun). As mentioned in that thread, the single shot Cooey has a swaged FULL choke barrel. If you read various threads on shooting steel, you will see that it is pretty much stressed NOT TO USE FULL CHOKE, especially in a swaged choke barrel. If one chooses to use a swaged full choke with steel there isn't much that can be done about that. I saw a video on here, by a forum member, where he placed the barrel of his shotgun against a pumpkin and pulled the trigger. The barrel burst. Should we say not to carry your shotgun through a pumpkin patch because of this? No, we would say not to obstruct your barrel with a pumpkin. Just as it's being stressed not to use full choke with steel shot in an older gun, or most guns for that matter. Worse is, he and his buddies laughed about it!
Bottom line there are numerous older guns being used with steel shot with no problems providing the gun is safe to start with and the choke has been opened up. If one chooses not to open up the choke because he/she doesn't want to spend the money, or just doesn't want to bother, there's not much you can do about it.
 
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Two chkes, one marked "steel full" and one marked "lead Full" will not necessarily have the same actually constriction.
More often than not, ( especially and older fixed choke gun) the full choke for lead will measure tighter than the full choke for steel.
We usually run the barrels out to about IC and relieve the forcing cones a bit on the Remingtons, that works very well for steel.
Cat
 
Local gun shop reamed my 1971 auto 5 from full too modified so I can shoot steel, they said they've done before with no problems, have not had chance too use it yet

Hum! I have a 1950s A5 from Belgium imported specifically for the Canadian market. It came with the original owner's manual for the shotgun and a manual for the factory installed poly choke/muzzle break. On the barrel it says Browning Missouri and beneath that it says Browning Montreal. The barrel also says 12 gauge 2 3/4 - 3" special steel on it and the owner's manual saids rated for steel shot. I was concerned about the poly choke so I actually looked at the owner's manual for it and it saids that the choke is rated for steel shot also. Just to be safe, I run a number 2 shot through it. I am not sure how common this variant is but they are out there for around $300. Bought mine at a dealer.

Btw, to the OP, I have shot steels through my Cooey 84 and let me tell you, it is not worth the worry. I use mine only for trap now. Spend a couple of dollars and buy another shotgun.
 
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are the old Remington wingmasters safe for steel shot? my dad has one with a full fixed choke he has been using duck hunting for 30 years with. Is this damaging the barrel?

he says he thinks its a 80's model
 
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I would like to know if the "led free" shots would solve the problem of using steel shots in older shotguns? is this a cost effective way to use older shotguns for waterfowl hunting? what are the disadvantages of "led free" shots in older shotguns?
 
Not pitting, but the steel of the shot is often harder than he steel in old shotgun barrels. This can lead to horrific scoring of the bore. Considering how inexpensive a new Remington 870 or even a Benelli Nova is, I see no reason to mess around with old shotguns trying to make it so they won't blow up in your face because you're trying to make it shoot shot it wasn't designed to.

Modern steel loads have all the shot contained within a thick heavy shot cup so that the shot never comes in contact with the bore. When steel was first tested many years ago it was just substituted for lead in the same shot cups as lead which was where scoring issues were discovered. The problem was long fixed by the time non-toxic shot became mandated in Canada. The problem with firing steel through old fixed chokes is this new ammo design with the entire load of shot contained in the extra thick plastic shot cup combined with the hardness of steel shot and its lack of compression characteristic as it passes through the choke. Lead being softer can and will compress on itself and move about freely where steel has the characteristic of a battering ram and of course the larger the shot the less room to compress and move about and as you need two sizes larger to equal the pellet weight of the lead shot you used you can see how to problem compounds.
Now if you want to save on gunsmith charges to bore a choke slightly larger just fire some BB, BBB, T or F shot through that fixed full. It might just swage it open enough for you........

and yes I knew a guy who didn’t heed the warnings and destroyed an 88 Maverick barrel with steel BB’s sized shot after just a few rounds. Barrel had a nice bulge behind the choke.
 
It has been almost 20 years, I for one don't know why this even comes up anymore. During the transition, the Wildlife organization had a list, shotguns that were capable of shooting steel, those that needed forcing cone modifications and so on.

Anyone of us can do as we wish, it's a free country, sort off.

If I were to give the quick answer, it would be:

Is it 12 ga. 3 inch or bigger? If yes it may be suitable for waterfowl (up to and including Canada Geese) hunting. Most waterfowl hunting is done with 12 ga 3 inch minimum. Hunters in our area usually have a 12 ga 3 1/2 shotgun, but mostly just buy 3". Same as during the pre non-toxic era, most hunters bought a 3" 12 ga, but shot mostly 2 3/4.

Does the shotgun have screw in chokes? if it does not, it probably is not an ideal or a desired waterfowl shotgun, and it may not be safe to shoot steel.

If it does have screw in chokes, continue, if not you need a new shotgun.

Does the screw in choke say Steel on it? All chokes made to shoot steel will have STEEL etched on them.

Now all the old school shotgunning criteria come into play, the main being does it fit you.

Lots of shooters choose a semi, to reduce the felt recoil. shooting 1 1/4 plus oz. of shot @ 1500+ fps does recoil.

But, I sold a sawed off single shot this spring, ran into the buyer in fall. He shot a bunch of geese and ducks with it, used whatever ammo was lying around, may have been toxic, and said it was one of the better shotguns he had ever owned !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! He shot a slug out of it and the fore end fell off, said he just duct taped it back on with camo duct tape and it was good to go. So from that experience I think your sawed off Cooey may be the most perfect goose gun out there. That fellow that bought mine thought so, and I think his best shot was 5 birds with one shot.

I'm not a big time waterfowl hunter, I go out once or twice a year and shoot a couple of geese. I didn't think a new shotgun was too expensive, bought a Remington Express on sale and was good to go. Over the years I did a few upgrades, a new barrel, Wingmaster trigger group and bolt, to make it a bit smoother shucking. I also purchased a couple of high end choke tubes, for better patterning.

The Benelli Super Black Eagle 3 would be my recommendation, or the Super Vinci if you are on a budget.

If you go cheap pump, you may want to stick with a 3", I find the stoke of the 3 1/2 a bit long to shuck-shuck.
 
years ago I told a duck hunting buddy that he shouldn't shoot steel out of his o/u that had screwin chokes but were not rated for steel.....guess what one day ... ruined o/u barrel...had to replace the gun...
 
My first water fowl piece was a Remington Model 31 from 1948. Fixed full barrel that has seen a fair bit of steel. Doesnt look much different than the day I started using it. Although it now mainly sits in the safe and only comes out on sunny days for clays or over the pond for mallards.
 
Most steel damage to barrels in modern guns or older ones for that matter involve screw in chokes. They partially back becoming an obstruction or get swelled into the threads preventing removal. I am of the opinion that fixed chokes in appropriate constriction in relation to shot size are safer. Extended steel proof chokes (screw ins) apparently keep the choke portion forward of the threads to help this issue.

Darryl
 
Most steel damage to barrels in modern guns or older ones for that matter involve screw in chokes. They partially back becoming an obstruction or get swelled into the threads preventing removal. I am of the opinion that fixed chokes in appropriate constriction in relation to shot size are safer. Extended steel proof chokes (screw ins) apparently keep the choke portion forward of the threads to help this issue.

Darryl

Interesting bit of information...……………….thanks
 
my understanding steel shot is fine, unless your shotgun barrel has a FIXED choke that is tighter than improve modified or is using a threaded choke with more constriction than IM. All my chokes are labeled for lead & steel equivalent. My tightest choke that can fire steel safely is Improved Modifed that is Extra full in steel.
 
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