Steer me toward a new single stage press.

No it is standard 7/8 -14 dies.



Nope, guess again. It is all dies.



Also a wive's tale. Stick precision dies in a progressive and watch nothing change except your speed.

First, no, the press must be able to accept the large dies in order for the lock n load bushings to fit. Of course you use standard dies still, but they screw into the lock n load bushing, right? What does the other half of the bushing screw into? That's right, a press that has the ability to fit larger dies.

Try the lock n load on the Redding t7, the big boss series, the Lee challenger, the classic cast breech lock, the Lee turret presses, etc. You will find that they do not work, because they do not have the larger thread pattern available that the lock n load system uses.

I'm not guessing, read what I wrote again, I know it's standard dies (obviously, there is no such thing as a large thread die that works on standard sized cases like 308 etc).

And you are absolutely wrong about precision and progressive presses. Can they make good ammo? Sure they can, but it isn't as good as good ammo done on a good, straight, single stage.

Ever wonder why NO competition shooters who are serious load their ammo on a progressive? It ain't because they just love to spend hours at their loading bench, it's because single stage presses offer numerous advantages. There are no mechanisms to fail, they are much more consistent as there are fewer linkages to loosen up and/or have play, the presses themselves are stiffer thus meaning that you don't have flex in the press which can give you inconsistent cartridge base to datum lengths as well as inconsistent seating depths.

A progressive press is awesome for what it does, but what it does is not make the best precision ammo you can possibly make. If it did that, then the high power guys would use them all the time, in fact everyone would. Think about it, you can't even weigh out your charges on a progressive! How on earth can you suggest they are the exact same except your speed? That is the biggest bunch of horse crap I've read on this forum.

Sorry if you take my post rudely, but your post was incredibly condescending, you didn't even bother reading my original post correctly, and you are so far off base about progressive presses I wonder if you've ever bothered loading precision ammo before?

I could personally tell the difference in consistency even going from a Redding t7 to the coax, and though it wasn't huge, my cartridge base to datum lengths had their consistency double (was it bad to begin with? No of course not, the Redding is a great press, but my point is that there MUST be some amount of play for it to rotate, but since that play is derived from a screwed joint and not managed with a hard stop, there is an extra thou or two room for flex and movement).

Sorry, but you're plain and simply wrong.
 
And regarding your "it's all dies" thing, you're right that it is mostly dies, but are you not aware that no seating die can perfectly match the size of a sized cartridge, because if it did, and you sized some brass that was a little more work hardened, then the brass would not fit in your perfectly sized seating die? Even the best competition seating dies MUST have a small amount of clearance so that the brass will fit in it regardless of the brass condition, thickness, and the size of the sizing die chamber (ie Redding does not make a seating die that will not work with brass sized in a Forster or rcbs die, but Forster, Redding, and rcbs do not all have identical sizing die chambers, there are minor dimensional differences. If the die is held perfectly still but the brass is not perfectly centered under the die and can't move at all to center, then the brass can go into the die crooked by a few minutes of an angle, therefore possibly causing the bullet to seat a few minutes off of perfect, thus affecting concentricity, however minor, it DOES affect it. Full stop. It is not ALL DIES, the press and shell holders can affect it, this is why you don't see many (any?) Pros of the highest pedigree loading in a Lee loader or a Lee challenger - they offer to much flex, and no amount of perfect die can fix that, nor can it fix putting a shell into a shell holder a few thou away from perfect. The cartridge will still go in to the die, but pull it out and you will see it did not center itself perfectly. Yes, it's only a thou or two generally, but don't say it's all dies. Some people are striving for perfection, so "within a few thou" isn't good enough for them. Others figure they want to eliminate as many variables as they can, so if they can eliminate that few thou then they will. Others, like yourself, are comfortable loading ammo that's "quite good" or "good enough" and that's fine, different strokes bud, but please don't tell me you know more than every competition shooter in the highest levels of world, national, and us competition.

Is the Forster required? No, it's not, but if you want the best ammo possible, you aren't looking for a progressive. If you want a whole lot of pretty darn good ammo, and are willing to tweak and fiddle with a progressive to get it just so, then great, you've found your press.
 
Though it's been recommended more than enough times already, I'll give another vote for the Co-Ax. Some fine gentlemen on the forum steered me towards the Forster when I expressed a need for something sturdy to load .338LM with confidence. I like it so much I often use it to load high-calibre pistol rounds like .44Mag and .45ACP. I love its ingenious primer-seating system.

Only downside I've found is that the shell holder doesn't work with the rcbs primer swager, because that tool relies on the press ram retracting. Other than that, a great press.
Yeah, I had the same problem. I bought a cheap RCBS Partner press that I use as a dedicated primer pocket swaging station because the die didn't work with either the Co-Ax or the Lee Turret Press. Works great!
 
And krprice84 for the win, lol.
Not to hijack this thread (perhaps a topic for another?) but your experienced; I would love to know the steps (and equipment) you do from beginning to end to create a precision round.
As someone fairly new to exploring the precision rifle scene - and remote from the world- I'd like to know.
 
I'm not as experienced as I may sound, got a couple years, but I've spent many hours researching and learning from a few real pros, and I have spend the time and money to see what works and what doesn't seem to do a lot.

I planned on doing a bit of a write up, maybe something sticky worthy, that outlines how one would minimize any inconsistencies in their ammo. I think the biggest thing is to simply control ALL variables that u can, meaning a good press that sizes and seats consistently, good dies that do the same, good set up practices, and case prep that uniforms every single thing you can, like the primer pocket, flash hole, overall case length, neck thickness, neck diameter, case base to datum length (often referred to as cartridge headspace), etc (not all of these are totally required for good ammo, but I believe that controlling everything that is controllable week contribute to the most consistent ammo you can make. A super accurate scale is also helpful - mine is a Sartorius analytical balance that resolves down to 0.1mg (0.002 grains) which you can use to determine your powder charge to the kernel if you desire, you can use to make lots of bullets according to the machine they were made on (each machine will vary the weight ever so slightly, though u can see this with a standard scale you, am analytical balance is FAST), and measuring the water capacity of your fired cases to sort them into lots (going strictly by brass weight is not nearly as reliable and accurate as directly measuring the water capacity).

than that it is just a matter of technique and doing things in the order than will ensure one step doesn't negatively affect the other.
 
Absolutely, they will. I find the downside to be having to have two presses and other types of dies. But honestly, if you want the absolute best and have the space and money, arbor press is great for seating perfectly
 
First, no, the press must be able to accept the large dies in order for the lock n load bushings to fit. Of course you use standard dies still, but they screw into the lock n load bushing, right? What does the other half of the bushing screw into? That's right, a press that has the ability to fit larger dies.

My apologies - I misunderstood what you were conveying - absolutely the bushing conversion only works with the 1 1/4-12 thread pitch. Win for Hornady and RCBS then.


And you are absolutely wrong about precision and progressive presses.

I'm not actually. Do some research. There are plenty of high profile shooters that use progressives to make winning ammo, and far greater numbers that are not-so-high-profile. David Tubb, the USAMU to name a few.

Think about it, you can't even weigh out your charges on a progressive!

A process that is easily removed from the progressive machine, just as you don't measure and dump your powder charge with a single stage press....

Sorry if you take my post rudely, but your post was incredibly condescending, you didn't even bother reading my original post correctly, and you are so far off base about progressive presses I wonder if you've ever bothered loading precision ammo before?

You made a statement that I know to be false.
You don't know me or my experience. You may want to keep an open mind and do more exploring.

I could personally tell the difference in consistency even going from a Redding t7 to the coax, and though it wasn't huge, my cartridge base to datum lengths had their consistency double.

If that is your experience with a co-ax, so be it.
 
And regarding your "it's all dies" thing, you're right that it is mostly dies, but are you not aware that no seating die can perfectly match the size of a sized cartridge, because if it did, and you sized some brass that was a little more work hardened, then the brass would not fit in your perfectly sized seating die? Even the best competition seating dies MUST have a small amount of clearance so that the brass will fit in it regardless of the brass condition, thickness, and the size of the sizing die chamber (ie Redding does not make a seating die that will not work with brass sized in a Forster or rcbs die, but Forster, Redding, and rcbs do not all have identical sizing die chambers, there are minor dimensional differences. If the die is held perfectly still but the brass is not perfectly centered under the die and can't move at all to center, then the brass can go into the die crooked by a few minutes of an angle, therefore possibly causing the bullet to seat a few minutes off of perfect, thus affecting concentricity, however minor, it DOES affect it. Full stop. It is not ALL DIES, the press and shell holders can affect it, this is why you don't see many (any?) Pros of the highest pedigree loading in a Lee loader or a Lee challenger - they offer to much flex, and no amount of perfect die can fix that, nor can it fix putting a shell into a shell holder a few thou away from perfect. The cartridge will still go in to the die, but pull it out and you will see it did not center itself perfectly. Yes, it's only a thou or two generally, but don't say it's all dies. Some people are striving for perfection, so "within a few thou" isn't good enough for them. Others figure they want to eliminate as many variables as they can, so if they can eliminate that few thou then they will. Others, like yourself, are comfortable loading ammo that's "quite good" or "good enough" and that's fine, different strokes bud, but please don't tell me you know more than every competition shooter in the highest levels of world, national, and us competition.

Is the Forster required? No, it's not, but if you want the best ammo possible, you aren't looking for a progressive. If you want a whole lot of pretty darn good ammo, and are willing to tweak and fiddle with a progressive to get it just so, then great, you've found your press.


I'm not adding my comments to get into a pi$$ing match with you.
And while getting into a debate about the nuances of the variables of loading with you sounds fun, I'll just back off and let you continue quoting stuff you have no personal experience with.
I'm not sure where you get the notion that I've come on here 'knowing more than every competition shooter in the highest levels of world, national, and U.S. competition' - but whatever... You clearly have some issues.
 
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My apologies - I misunderstood what you were conveying - absolutely the bushing conversion only works with the 1 1/4-12 thread pitch. Win for Hornady and RCBS then.
fair enough, it happens, it just came across as kind of condescending, but I could just be an oversensitive ##### too ;)


I'm not actually. Do some research. There are plenty of high profile shooters that use progressives to make winning ammo, and far greater numbers that are not-so-high-profile. David Tubb, the USAMU to name a few.

every bit of research that i've done has shown that very few competitive shooters use progressives, though there certainly are *some*. David Tubb, from my understanding, used a progressive partly as part of a marketing thing, to show that he could still win while using one. Both him and the USAMU are high power shooters, too, where absolute perfection is not nearly as important as "good quality" ammo, when compared to benchrest. I still doubt you will find ANY benchrest shooters using a progressive, though I'll certainly concede there is always the possibility of someone tuning it up and/or not fully realizing that they could get a little bit better results with a single stage. Also, with Highpower shooting, since you only need to get in the X-Ring, a shooter who is confident enough in his abilities certainly could shoot ammo that's "good enough" and be confident that he's still going to hit that x-ring 99.5% of the time. For almost every shooter, however, having that little bit of extra assurance that if you miss a wind call by 0.5 mph, then you're still going to be closer to where you wanted, rather than running the risk that your "good enough" ammo was had just enough inconsistency to cause it to go off course enough to hit the 10 ring instead of the x-ring.

It very well may be that for many shooters wouldn't notice the difference between ammo made on a progressive and a single stage, but I would honestly be willing to wager cash money that if you had a somewhat experienced guy (someone, say, like myself) set up a progressive and a single stage side by side, and made twenty rounds on each, and measured them for consistency, you would be able to see the difference with respect to cartridge base to datum point length, cartridge base to ogive length, concentricity of the neck and of the bullet, and like i said before, charge weights. Yes, you're right, you can absolutely single weigh each charge, but at that point, there is very little time savings in my opinion to a progressive. I also, personally, like to measure things like shoulder clearance (what most people call headspace of a cartridge) and neck concentricity after sizing, because if for some reason I managed to get the cartridge to go ####-eyed into the die, or the brass wasn't annealed properly, then it's something I'll be able to see and either fix by running through an expander die then the sizing die again, or I can cull that piece of brass and use it for a sighter or for a shorter range shot (if, for example, I'm loading up varmint rounds), at least for that load cycle.

Also, if you read about the Houston Warehouse and the guys that shot the smallest groups that any shooter has ever shot consistently (to my knowledge), they loaded their ammo exclusively on an arbor press (they weren't even neck sizing, for many of their guns, as the clearance was so tight it wasn't required) - they didn't use a progressive because it isn't as perfect, and they didn't even use a single stage, because an arbor is even better.

Again, if a progressive was as perfect as a single stage, then you would certainly see guys loading benchrest ammo (if they pre-load) on a progressive, or at the very least, running their brass through the sizing die(s) on a progressive that auto-feeds, as it would save a hell of a lot of time not having to handle each piece of brass 2-4 times just completing sizing!

A process that is easily removed from the progressive machine, just as you don't measure and dump your powder charge with a single stage press....

Yes, it is easily removed, but why would you use a progressive if you aren't trying to get speed out of it? Yes, you'd still save time, but weighing out individual charges take a heck of a lot more time than moving brass around, so the time savings of a progressive largely come from the complete automation of the entire process. yes, you still save some time even if you single weigh each charge, but if the cost was the same for each type of press, and they really were as precise as each other, then sure it'd be worth it, but given the cost of a good progressive system that auto feeds the brass and bullets, it's going to have to really speed things up a lot to justify that kind of cost for most people.

You made a statement that I know to be false.
You don't know me or my experience. You may want to keep an open mind and do more exploring.
If you know it to be false, that must be your experience, but I know the amount of research I have done before buying the co-ax (my options were either a plain old rockchucker, a redding ultra-mag, a progressive, or a co-ax), and I know that, given my POU and my personal loading goals, I want to make the best ammo I possibly can, and am willing to sacrifice extra time to do so. If someone is going to go to the effort to turn necks, ream flash holes, uniform primer pockets, and all that, then what is an extra bit of time on the press. The actual loading procedure of the prepped brass is only a small fraction of the time that one spends preparing and loading ammunition. Also, my philosophy has become, after much research, to do everything I possibly can that the best benchrest shooters do, so long as it doesn't conflict with the type of firearm and the actual situation/environment that the firearm will be used in (i.e. I won't go for neck clearance of only 1 or 2 thou, because I know that I'm not going to be cleaning every 10 or 20 rounds, thus I can't exactly follow benchrest procedures. But I do want to do everything that is feasible that a benchrester would do, knowing that my ammo is as absolutely perfect as I can possibly make it, and therefore, I can fully rule out the ammo from the equation if I get a flyer. I will then know it was either the rifle or me. I am in the process of ensuring that it is very unlikely to be the rifle, but I have decided that I will not allow it to be the ammo, and soon, the small chance it is the rifle will be no chance, and then I will know it was somehow me that caused it, either by missing a wind call, improper trigger control, or whatever else. But it won't be my equipment. If a benchrester does something, it's not likely because it's easy, it's because it's the best way that he can figure out to do it. If a progressive was just as precise as a single stage, why would they not use them at least to feed their brass into the brass, size the neck, push back the shoulder by a thou, and then move it over to the arbor press to seat (or, if as you claim, it's all in the dies, then use the progressive to also seat the bullets using a custom made, very high quality die). The reason is because it isn't as perfect, it's good, but not perfect.

If that is your experience with a co-ax, so be it.


And I dont' claim to know you or your experiences, but I do know my own, and I do know the immense amount of research and time I have put into this subject. I do know that I have discussed the matter with numerous experienced competition shooters in both benchrest and f-class shooting disciplines, and have been told by every one of them that a) I should not use a progressive or a turret and b) that I should get the co-ax, and if I want to go all the way, an arbor press for seating. I did not follow the advice originally, thinking that the Redding T7 would be "just as good" as any single stage, because it is overbuilt and beefy as hell, and a great brand name. I found, however, that my shoulder setback was not always perfectly consistent, and after researching more, I found that it could have been partly due to my annealing, which has now been refined to the point I think it's not an issue, it could be the brass below the shoulder which does not get annealed, which I took care of by trying it out with brass I know to be once fired out of my own gun at the same load etc, or it could be the minor play in the turret head, and the flex that comes from the design of the press. I decided to follow their advice and get a co-ax, and like I say, my shoulder setback went from a variance of 2-3 thou to a variance of less than 1 thou, generally within half a thou unless the brass somehow got mixed up in the wrong box and had more/less firings on it or was a different lot/headstamp. When I am careful, I do not see more than 1 thou variation when using my coax.

I will admit I have not personally used a progressive, so I can't speak from experience directly, but I can say that if a press like the T7 can not hold nearly perfect shoulder set back, then no progressive could, as there is going to be inherent play and flex in any progressive, as there are more linkages, more turning parts, etc. When you have a part that turns, it must have play (this I am sure we can agree on), and when you have a part that turns you are opening yourself up to some amount of flex, depending on the design that may be a small amount or a larger amount. Same thing with a linkage, and same thing when you increase the amount of work that a linkage system has to do.

It's just basic mechanics - if you have one linkage, and it has 1 thou of play, you could see that come through as variance in your process. if you have 3 linkages, then you have more chance of that coming through. if you add in a rotating turret head, or a rotating shell holder plate, then you do the same thing. Minimizing this variance can do nothing but help consistency. Same thing with the flex in the actual press metal itself. If you have a press like the ultramag, you are pulling down on the piece that the die body sits in, therefore you are lowering the chances of flexing the press. If you have a design like the co-ax, where there is very little overhang, and the amount of metal is large, then you also limit it. But having a rotating shell plate you are going to have some flex and play, and this by necessity can show up in your process. how much it shows up is not important, the fact is, it is there and can show up.

So again, if you are wanting to load the most perfect ammo you can possibly load, a single stage (and an arbor if you really want to go balls to the wall) is the best way. a progressive certainly can load good ammo, and if one invests the time and effort to tune it up and take out as much play as possible and set it up perfectly, i have no doubt it can produce really good ammo, but I can not believe that it would produce AS GOOD ammo as a high end single stage like the coax. Though, i'd love to see someone do a side-by-side on them, with the NECO and sinclair gauges, a set of calipers and a micrometer, and a good shoulder setback gauge like the ones sinclair makes (stainless steel, no chance for it to be worn down over many uses like the hornady, which while I don't see actually being an issue with careful use, I think it's probably not a bad idea to limit the chances if you can get the sinclair pieces). As I said, I'd even make a friendly wager that the ammo put out by the single stage would gauge better than the progressive - I'm not going to even venture a guess at how much better, but to me, how much does not matter for what I load for, at all matters. Now that I've got a semi-auto 30 caliber rifle, I very well may look into a progressive to make ammo to shoot out of that, but that's because I don't see myself competing or shooting gophers at 300-400 yards with it (i have access to a farm where our main shooting position is 125 yards from the closest gopher spot, and about 350 from the farthest, and if I see a gopher pop up at any of them, I like to know I've got the best chance possible of smokin' it).
 
I'm not adding my comments to get into a pi$$ing match with you.
And while getting into a debate about the nuances of the variables of loading with you sounds fun, I'll just back off and let you continue quoting stuff you have no personal experience with.
I'm not sure where you get the notion that I've come on here 'knowing more than every competition shooter in the highest levels of world, national, and U.S. competition' - but whatever... You clearly have some issues.

No, no issues at all, I just know that there's no way a progressive is "as perfect" as a single stage. I am not debating whether or not a progressive is good - surely they are, when set up right, maintained right, and used right. But a progressive is not nearly as versatile, nor is it ever going to be quite as perfect.

I also took issue with you saying "it's all dies" because it's not - an aluminum Lee challenger is not going to be nearly as likely to be able to load ammo that's as perfect as that done on a Coax. But it's also not nearly as versatile. Good luck trying to size 338 Lapua or 300 Win Mag all day on a challenger, and good luck trying to form cases on a challenger. A progressive, I'm not totally sure of, but I personally wouldn't want to form brass on a thousand dollar progressive system, not unless I've seen it done myself on someone else's press, and not unless they've done thousands of rounds with no ill effects on the press.

This thread was initially about helping someone find a good single stage press, hence why I mentioned the Co-Ax. It is, by far, the best single stage press for any caliber that it can phyisically fit in it, for the money. Is the ATRS press beefier and good? No doubt it is, but for more than double the money of the Co-Ax, I think one would have to have a pretty damn good reason to go for it, especially when it doesn't have the priming system, the primer catch system and the quick change ability of the Co-Ax. You suggested that it's all dies and the press doesn't matter, so go for a cheaper single stage (or a progressive) that will physically handle the largest you need to load, and spend your money on dies. I simply disagree - I think it's money well spent getting a good press AND good dies. You also suggested that you could simply "throw speed in there" by getting a progressive, and have the exact same ammo as you'd get on a single stage but faster, and I also disagree. Many competition and probably all benchrest shooters disagree too...
 
These threads go nowhere fast - I have an old RCBS RockChucker that I bought used on EE to replace a Lee Turret -an Xmas gift to my brother who decided to try reloading. It btw, loaded accurate ammo (if someone asks me to define "accuracy" , I'll vomit).

I removed the RockChucker shell holder retaining clip (purposely for "slop") and use Lee Collets, Redding Body and Forster Bullet Seater dies - my system, and I don't measure run-out, neck-turn, anneal or worry about .003" variances in seating depth. Why? Think about it - between caliper tolerance +/- .001", the beam scale +/- .1 gr, powder lot observed POI changes, projectile ogive variances (same lot) or even Hornady modified case variances (yes I bought two of these headspace units and ran duplicate trials using the same projectile) that returned a .002-3" difference - you get the picture.

I shoot sub-MOA to 500 yds from a rickety frame bench with a plywood top in farmers fields. And yes that means 5 shot < 5" groups, sometimes 2" groups at that distance. I do this operating with manufacturer specified and unspecified "tolerances" with good ol' 700s from the 80's that I tweaked myself. And I use crappy Win or Rem brass, Rem 9 1/2 primers, lee trimmers etc. and a $300 scope - got a groundhog at 450 yds with my RCBS Rockchucker last year - or was it the rifle, the rifling, the decision to not re-crown, the trigger job, the bedding, the coffee I didn't drink that morning or the humidity and elevation that I put in my ballistics program...

What are the Forster's quality specs, anyone have them? Not knocking the press (never used one) but would argue that accuracy lies in the trigger finger of the shooter as THE major unknown - not the press, nor the components, there are too many variables and variability. The top guys that dedicate there time to this eliminate the variables - law of diminishing returns but their return is worth it.

I get it - reloading, it's fun, challenging, educational and frustrating at times, but I will say that all SS presses on the market (the big guys) make decent offerings and opinions are like #######s...everyone has one. Oh, I like that one...

It's a fun sport - don't kill it by being fanatical when you (nor I) know the quality specifications accepted for materials, machining and the like for the press manufacturers. And don't muse that a press is the make or break "it" for accurate ammo - sure, ease of use, extra features, pretty colours are nice from a users perspective...but it's only opinion, not necessarily factual and based on engineered design pros and cons

Btw, my brother's made in China Simmons and his over-the-counter Winchester whitebox .223 projectiles can beat all my efforts above - can't explain that, it is what it is and he's sub 1/4 MOA out to 400 yds - luck has its' merit as well.
 
'krprice84' - you need to go back to the OP's original post and put all of what you wrote into the context of what he is asking.
Also, no one really cares how much info you read on accurateshooter.com and regurgitate here....experience counts.
Let us all know when you get some...more of it.
 
Like I already said, it's not that I have years of experience, but it's also not that I've only read accurate shooter and called that good.

I also am not so naive that I think whatever I read online is true, but when 99 percent of the people who do have far more experience than I, and every bench rest shooter I've talked to or heard of doesn't use a progressive, that's where I get that info.

Oh, and using some tools to see what the results are is easy. I'm going to go to a buddy's house in next week or two and bring my dies and load up some ammo on his Dillon and see what the results are.

And blauber, the point really isn't to take the fun out of it, but for me i just have decided to make the best ammo I can. So far that's been with a Forster. No doubt you can make decently, or even highly accurate, ammo on many presses. But when you can measure the ammo when you are done, and you can improve those measurements, why wouldn't you want to, especially when your goal is what mine is, which is to make the most consistent ammo I can. It's common sense that if you make everything uniform and consistent you will eliminate causes of inaccuracy (though of course not guaranteeing accuracy)
 
Like I already said, it's not that I have years of experience, but it's also not that I've only read accurate shooter and called that good.

I also am not so naive that I think whatever I read online is true, but when 99 percent of the people who do have far more experience than I, and every bench rest shooter I've talked to or heard of doesn't use a progressive, that's where I get that info.

Oh, and using some tools to see what the results are is easy. I'm going to go to a buddy's house in next week or two and bring my dies and load up some ammo on his Dillon and see what the results are.

Going back through the thread I'm still not sure where benchrest came into the discussion. Whatever.
If you are willing to keep an open mind and do legwork for yourself and run your own experiments, that cannot be faulted.
 
Like I already said, it's not that I have years of experience, but it's also not that I've only read accurate shooter and called that good.

I also am not so naive that I think whatever I read online is true, but when 99 percent of the people who do have far more experience than I, and every bench rest shooter I've talked to or heard of doesn't use a progressive, that's where I get that info.

Oh, and using some tools to see what the results are is easy. I'm going to go to a buddy's house in next week or two and bring my dies and load up some ammo on his Dillon and see what the results are.

And blauber, the point really isn't to take the fun out of it, but for me i just have decided to make the best ammo I can. So far that's been with a Forster. No doubt you can make decently, or even highly accurate, ammo on many presses. But when you can measure the ammo when you are done, and you can improve those measurements, why wouldn't you want to, especially when your goal is what mine is, which is to make the most consistent ammo I can. It's common sense that if you make everything uniform and consistent you will eliminate causes of inaccuracy (though of course not guaranteeing accuracy)

Np-lets say you've made consistent ammo. Now you could consider an aftermarket barrel blank, a match cut chamber and custom throat job (for high BC projectile offerings) too. Then, maybe a Nightforce, S&B or other scope - then again, maybe a Jewel trigger, a bedding job, pillars, MacMillan stock - and sure, now you have 5-6K into it, and a good chunk of free-time....but one of these days, I'll sit at a bench with my rig and perhaps beat this guy with my meager 1K investment.

Love accuracy, love precision more - love reloading and targets and hunting and nice looking walnut/blued rifles - but for me, after much reading and speaking with others, at the end-of-the-day, my hunting rifles (double for my target rifles) will shoot lights-out and would most likely still accomplish that end-point with a Lee Turret, RCBS, Forster, Lyman or Hornady press.
 
Fair enough, but I empirically shown that even without a 6k gun, you can still see the difference between the best ammo and good ammo. Not saying it's needed, but like I say, my personal goal is to make the best ammo I can. I presume that most people who hand load would like to do that, up to their own requirements etc. If you aren't trying to load for volume, then why not go for the best you can.

And yea, I brought up bench rest, the reason being that those guys get the best accuracy possible, so their techniques and methods are generally going to provide the most consistency.

But blauber your right, a cheaper gun with decent ammo can easily out shoot a 6k gun, depending on the shooter. But you can't tell me that, given shooter is the same person, that there wouldn't be any difference between a 1k gun using decent ammo and a 6k gun using perfect ammo.
 
I can pretty much guarantee that anyone not recommending the forster co-ax has likely never used one. It is by far the quickest and most accurate single stage press out there, period.

Buy it, and you won't regret it. Nearly all other single stages recommend in this thread can be upgraded to a co-ax, there are none the co-ax can be upgraded to.
 
Without reading through six pages I use a Redding Big Boss II and very satisfied with it.
 
I will actually give you that, if you're just loading up for hunting or plinking, pretty much any press on the market will do that job well enough to hit what you want to hit. My theory is, however, that if I'm going to go to the effort to make my own ammo, why not go to the small extra effort and cost to make that ammo as good as is possible? Why not ensure that every shot I take is going to be as absolutely close to the previous one as is possible, within the realms of my ability and budget.

having said that, if your budget says you can only spend 150 bucks on a press, then by all means, a used rockchucker or a new lee press will do you wonderful. if, however, you happen to have a classic turret, a challenger, a rockchucker, and a classic cast, then I don't see budget being a big issue. someone who was just starting off and wondering what press they should buy could simply buy a regular lee classic cast (for pocket swaging and bullet pulling, and 50bmg/other large cartridges if they ever got to that point), and a Co-Ax for everything else.

A coax does far more than a turret does - you get the ability to very quickly swap out your dies, but you also have the ability to move between a bunch of calibers easily and without screwing around with setup. I know you can buy new turret plates for your press, so fair enough, but the ease with which I can move between calibers on the coax is amazing, and the fact that it is also the straightest loading press there is on the mainstream market, one of the higher leverage presses, and one of the nicest to use, I think the money is well spent. It costs 315 right now from a company who sells these presses out east - your challenger and turret cost you about that much, maybe a little more I'd guess? plus you simply don't *need* the rockchucker if you've got a classic cast, though I totally understand having a bunch of presses, if the point is budget then the coax is a very smart press to buy if you think you'll end up taking hand loading seriously at any point in the future. buy once, cry once (and with the coax it isn't even crying, more like a gentle wimper).
The "budget" is still small. I started with a Lee Loader. After about 5years, I picked up a Challenger press (with a broken linkage) for $5. I used it for years loading .303 and '06 until my wife got her family to band together and buy me a used RockChucker for Christmas. I thought it was great for pulling bullets, but my Challenger was still the one on my bench for the sheer reason of weight. It was easier to drag out, set up, and store when space was very limited, but when bullets HAD to be pulled, out came the RCBS.
5 or 6 years later, I got a used turret press (which I didn't use since it had no directions) and a Lee Hand Press from a local shop. Then, a few years later, since I was doing a little better, I finally ordered my first reloading kit (50th Anniversary) from SIR (not internet, didn't have it yet). Discovered I now had a book to tell me how to use the turret press so I set it up and promptly ruined a few cases with the collet neck sizing die. I put it away for a bit, again concentrating on my Challenger (not a big deal since I only shot rifle cartridges). Joined the military, shot less there than I did as a civvy. But time became important, so I hauled out the turret press and checked it out again, it worked for some strange reason, worked WELL. Used it for years to turn out .303Br rounds faster than before.
Two years ago, kids all grown and gone, my wife sees me drooling over a Classic Cast 4-hole turret and decides to order me one for Christmas but, since all presses look the same to her, got me a Classic Cast Single Stage instead. My look of disappointment must have been evident and she asked me why. Explained. She told me to send it back and get the one I wanted. Shipping was very prohibitive so she just got me the right one! This is after reloading for 30 years.
 
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