Steps to Camo Your Rifle Cheap

[crazy_train04]

Here is how I Camo'd my Stevens 200 in previous post.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v395/crazy_train04/Hunting/Stevens200.jpg

1. Sand down all the ridges and sand with 120 grit or use scotchbrite to rough up the stock a bit to help paint stick.
2. Using the screw holes for the butt pad, screw your stock so it stands up on a piece of wood. Then I painted the whole stock with Krylon flat black seen in picture below.
3. Then in a random order hit the black stock with Krylon Camo Green and Brown (in picture below) leaving an equal amount of black to green to brown when your done.
4. Now go to your closest evergreen tree and trim off a bunch of small branches with lots of foliage.
5. Unscrew the stock from the wood and lay it down on some cardboard and lay down your small pieces of evergreen branches all over the stock tying to cover pretty much all the stock with branches. Anywhere you don't cover will be painted solid Kaki with no breakup. So make sure you try to cover it all.
6. Grab your can of Kaki Krylon Camo paint and hit the stock. Do step 5 & 6 on both sides of the stock.

Now your stock should look pretty cool with Black, Brown and green in the background of Kaki with the outline of the evergreen branches.

7. I made my own stencils for this step but you can buy them too if you like. To make your own stencils I just bought some blank stencil plastic from Walmart and cut out leaves with a exacto knife. (in picture below.) I found patterns of leaves on the net and printed them to trace.

8. Screw your stock back onto the board to stand it up and use your stencils with Brown and Green paint in random orders to create leaves on your stock.

Voila! Camo Stock for cheap. And if you don't like it... Sand it down and try again.
I hope this helps you guys. Good luck.

Here is a pic of the paint and the Stencils I made.

 

[gitrdun]

You da man....love it.

 

[HeadDamage]

I kryloned this rifle a couple of years ago with no prep other than wiping it down with acetone.

 

[mosteaka]

Very nice, have to try it.

 

[Huntress]

VERY NICE!!!!! I do have a question/ comment... When I first painted my old stock bubble gum pink with grape butterfly camo, I found... if you weren't careful while handling it at the range, you could ding the paint a bit. Have you thought of or does anyone know of a glaze or harderner you can use to protect it. Glazes are usually found in matte, semi gloss and gloss. Of course I, stock painters would want a matte finish.

As well at the local dollar store or Walmart you can get mac tac. The stuff you usually put on text books or shelves. I used that for my camo patterns. Like Crazy_train04, I used a utility knife to carefully cut out the stencil. It was very useful since it gently sticks to the paint without lifting it. This provided great contact between the painted surface and the stencil.

Thanks for the info... I expect to be doing this again in the spring.

Ciao for now, Fran

 

[crazy_train04]

I haven't found a clear coat that doesn't make the stock shine. If you know of one let me know!

 

[MauserMike]

Could you knock the shine off with some 0000 steel wool?

 

[Donny Fenn1]

camo hints:
-do your lightest color first then add the next colors from lightest to darkest
-matte clear coat is available from most high end scale model stores
-silly putty (kids toy) makes a great masking agent, it doesn't lift paint and you can use it over and over again

 

[BigBadBlair]

camo hints:
-do your lightest color first then add the next colors from lightest to darkest
-matte clear coat is available from most high end scale model stores
-silly putty (kids toy) makes a great masking agent, it doesn't lift paint and you can use it over and over again

Why lightest colours first? I'd have thought to go with darkest first, then darker to lighter.
I'm planning on doing this type of camo job as well, so my interest is sincere.

 

[Donny Fenn1]

in some/most cases the dark color base will "kill" lighter colors sprayed overtop...
in my youth i built competitive scale models and most of the techniques used there transfer to doing rifles and other stuff...
the light base color comes directly from a guide to painting armored fighting vehicles that i read/owned many years ago...
the model shops have tons of reference material on this stuff but even internet searches work
remember that you are trying to break up outlines and even mistakes "look good" to the people/animals that don't know they are mistakes

 

[crazy_train04]

That is interesting. I started with dark first then lighter and lighter. Maybe it depends on the style of camo application. If you apply light first and then use dark patterns or stencils on top I would agree for sure.

 

[Huntress]

Thanks for the info everyone... When it comes to colour always read your paint instructions first. As an art teacher... Plan out your pattern and start with your light to light/medium colour first. Work the colours from light to medium with a little dark. You don't want to wash out or influence the lighter colours. You want to build your colour, kinda like stepping stones.
Interesting idea about the modeling shops for a matte lacquer. I hadn't thought of that. I wasn't sure because of the spray paint. I usually work with tube paints.

Thanks I can't wait to do my Stevens model 200.

Ciao for now, Fran