Stevens 200



Here is one i did, my Stevens 30-06 is an olive coour with spiderwebbing:)

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IIRC any stock made for the Savage 10 or 110 (long or short action, respectively) will fit the relevant Stevens 200. That opens up quite an aftermarket, from Macmillan to Hogue to Boyds to...
 
I havn't ordered mine yet, next week. I'll just be using
Krylon Fusion for Plastic, Textured Shimmer White sands paint. Should be good for winter coyotes.

I think boyds makes a few nice stocks.
 
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Rubikahn said:
Are there any after market stocks for the Stevens 200? I hate the grey synthetic:D
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The factory stocks on the Stevens 200 are very serviceable if you remove the mould lines , paint it the colour of your choosing,and replace the plastic trigger guard with a metal one Total cost , probably about $50.00. A lot cheaper than a new stock.
 
I'd be quite reticent to swap stocks.
The Stevens stock has pillars in it, which is why they shoot so well out of the box.
Savage112 is completely right.
Give it a paint job and replace the trigger guard.
That said, I think Savage should start listening to the clientel and make it with a black stock, or at least a grey fleck.
 
If you order a stock from boyds, expect a long time to receive it. I ordered mine in April and they said 60 days. After checking in on it, I wont get it until september if Im lucky.

I ordered a JRS Pepper Laminate for the stevens 200
 
I primed it, and used a coat of truck bed liner for texture. Then more primer, then a coat of krylon flat desert sand camo paint.
 
I would if I knew how, but I haven't been able to find a product that'll do it well. And I've been meaning on giving it a clear coat of some sort of 2-part epoxy finish. And filling the forend with fibreglass bondo to enhance rigidity.
 
For foreend rigidity without the weight, try this.

using a forstner drill bit (allows you to drill a flat bottom to a hole), mill out the eggcrate reinforcements in the foreend now. They don't do a hell of a lot anyways.

Once you have a flat bottom and sides, epoxy in pieces of 1/4 to 5/8" thick plywood. If you don't mind the extra ounces, go full length. Otherwise, space out every 2 to 3" inches some pieces that are 1" long by the width of the stock.

Make sure that the piece is well glued to the bottom and sides. If you start under the recoil lug, you will help eliminate that vertical flex of the stock. As you add pieces going forward, you will reduce the side to side and vertical flex. The amount of torsional rigidity will also go up - harder to twist the stock.

It is a bit of trial and error to get it right and I have don't have many stocks to play with.

Another way is to make a piece that fits the entire length of the bottom then drill out some lightening holes.

Bondo and other non torsionally rigid fillers will add quite a bit of weight for the rigidity they to provide.

Jerry
 
I've heard of guys gluing fibreglass or carbon fibre arrowshafts inside, but that seems like it would add limited torsional rigidity.

Wonder how much strength a can of mono expanding foam would add, with the honeycomb crossmembers already in the forend?
 
Prosper, I use broken fishing fibreglass fishing rod butts. Have a bunch of them around here all the time that I find at the dump, yard sales, etc.

Cut to length, plug the ends to keep bedding out, then glue to the bottom of the barrel channel. Once bonded in place, full-length bed the barrel above the glass rods.

Works great and saves a lot of weight! :cool:

Ted
 
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