Stevens 200's and Flyers
- Thread starter powder burner
- Start date
Mystic Precision
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Summerland, BC
Lepages epoxy steel in a two tube syringe. You can find this just about anywhere. It is a fast cure (10min work time) so get set up, mix, goop, assemble.
Wait at least a few hours before pulling apart. Overnight is best.
Jerry
Wait at least a few hours before pulling apart. Overnight is best.
Jerry
After the curing time I've often dropped the whole thing in the freezer for about a 1/2-1 hour....theory being the metal shrinks a tad when chilled and makes for an easier job breaking the action and stock apart, seems to help anyways and certainly won't hurt 
Works for me at least when doing a "No slop" bedding jo
cool:
Works for me at least when doing a "No slop" bedding jo
cool:
- Location
- South Cariboo, BC
martinbns said:
$329 + a little tweaking on the action to stock fit will yeild much better submoa groups.
$329 + $600 will yield the name Remington.
Which would you want to pay for??
cariboo_kid said:
I don't personally own a Stevens 200, but I know a few people that do, my daughter and son-in-law both shoot them in 7-08. For my money, I'll take the Stevens hands-down. About $20.00 in materials, a few hours of putting a bit of your own time to do a nice bedding job. Spend another $100, a nice laminate stock. Another $175.00 now you have a good trigger. Total expenditure = $615.00 for a good looking rig that shoots awesome.
I'd rather spend the money and get what I want.
I keep saying this but I'll say it again: accuracy is but one component of a sucessful hunting rifle.
What good is the accuracy if your safety sticks, the bolt release snags on stuff or your rife fails to feed properly?
Imm not a big Remmy fan, but I'd buy one over the Stevens for 90% of my purposes, and other 10% I'd get aStevens.
I keep saying this but I'll say it again: accuracy is but one component of a sucessful hunting rifle.
What good is the accuracy if your safety sticks, the bolt release snags on stuff or your rife fails to feed properly?
Imm not a big Remmy fan, but I'd buy one over the Stevens for 90% of my purposes, and other 10% I'd get aStevens.
Mystic Precision
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Summerland, BC
GH, that is what has impressed me so much with the Savages and stevens. They run very well, feed and eject properly, have a safety(ies) that work smoothly and quiet.
Triggers that are crisp with no overtravel. Some of the best out of the box triggers you can find. Plus the ability to easily adjust the Accutrigger.
It all adds up to an excellent functional AND accurate rig.
for a moderate investment,
Jerry
Triggers that are crisp with no overtravel. Some of the best out of the box triggers you can find. Plus the ability to easily adjust the Accutrigger.
It all adds up to an excellent functional AND accurate rig.
for a moderate investment,
Jerry
Hmm! Hadn't been following this thread to closely but I did just this morning stick a Rifle Basix trigger in a 200 in .22/250 and it is sitting in Acra Glass as I type. Bedding is a must. they really can move around in that stock. I had the trigger working fine at 8oz but set it at 2lbs for my neigbor
gitrdun said:
Simple..........put some bedding compound under the tang when you bed the action in the stock.
Don't use the rear guard screw to pull the tang down, but just let it come down on the bedding as the rest of the action does on the bedding around the receiver ring and recoil lug.
Ted
powder burner
CGN frequent flyer
- Location
- Alberta, Canada
Gatehouse said:
What rifle do you prefer?
I've had 2 Stevens, boonerbuck has had 2 Savages and another buddy that I load for owns a Savage..And there has been a few more thrown in there..
mysticplayer said:
I found that of thse rifles I've had experience wiht, none of them fed perfectly 100%, most had 'sticky' safeties that were hard to use wiht gloves and the safeties were loud. Boonerbuck could tell you more about his rifles, though.
Also, that bolt release flange thingy catches on stuff.
Triggers on the Stevens I own werent' what I woudl call "crisp" more like "rough"
I sure will agree wiht you there. They are a very good deal for what they are. They are accurate with minimal effort. They are certianly functional enough for most hunting purposes. But both Boonerbuck and I lost animals because of safety and feeding issues, so they arent' perfect either.
I wouldn't dissuade someone form purchasing one if they wanted a reasonably good functioning and accurate rifle, but if someone wants a better stock, nicer finish, flawless feeding and extracting, more controllable safety, better trigger, hinged floorplate, recoil pad that actually reduces recoil.....They may want to look somewhere else.
I wouldn't hesitate to purchase another Stevens if I had a reason to do so, but those reasons will not include remote wilderness hunting trips!
powder burner said:
What rifle do you prefer?
Ones that are every bit as accurate as a Stevens, yet function better, look better, have better, quieter stocks, recpoil pads that arent' made of hockey puck material, hinged floorplates and metal trigger guards.
Seriously, the Stevens is a great rifle for the money. That is not in dispute. I sometimes do see alot of posts on CGN regarding the Stevens where peopel say that it's "every bit as good as a Remchester, for half the price" And that just isn't true, nor do I htink most peopel that post that actually believe it.
If they did believe it, then they woudl answer these 2 questions wiht a YES!
1) If the purchase price of a Remington/Winchester/Ruger/Tikka was the same as the Stevens- around $350- and the accuracy was the same, Woudl you choose the Stevens over the others?
2) Woudl you refuse to trade your Stevens for a Remington/Winchester/Ruger/Tikka that was just as accurate if someone offered to trade you straight across?
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Mystic Precision
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Summerland, BC
GH, that is too bad about your experiences. Just the opposite for me.
The 10 that I have worked on or modified, all ran just fine. They sometimes need a bit of tuning/smoothing to do their best. I don't mind as the upfront cost warrants a bit of TLC.
The factory plastic stocks are equal to all from any manf - meaning they are functional.
Oh well, hope your future experiences are better.
Enjoy...
Jerry
The 10 that I have worked on or modified, all ran just fine. They sometimes need a bit of tuning/smoothing to do their best. I don't mind as the upfront cost warrants a bit of TLC.
The factory plastic stocks are equal to all from any manf - meaning they are functional.
Oh well, hope your future experiences are better.
Enjoy...
Jerry
I've got one in 22-250 and I get groups like that cold. Once the barrel warms up the groups shrink.As long as I keep the barrel warm to the touch it will shoot like that all day.
Before (100yards, cold barrel, bore fouled)
After (100 yards, warm barrel, approximately 10 rounds after the first group)
The gun is pretty much stock. I polished the trigger a bit but otherwise nothing has been done.
The load is 38.5gr H380 and 40gr VMAX moly. I use moly coated bullets as the gun tends to copper foul up after 50 shots.
As for gatehouses comments, to each his own.
Personally I haven't had the problems he has had with mine but I'm sure we're using them for different purposes.
Mine is strictly a gopher gun.
I rarely use the safety on it. When I have though it seemed to work fine. Then again I'm shooting it mostly in the summer. No need for gloves.
It has always fed rounds perfectly, we're talking 500+ since I bought it. No issues for me there.
What it did do when I first bought it was not eject properly every time. Mine is an early model and the extractor wasn't holding on to the cartridge firmly.
A quick email to savage and I had a new extractor in the mail right away. Free of charge. No issues since.
The trigger was rough when I first bought mine. About a half hour with some emery cloth made it much smoother.
The gun is what it is. It's a good cheap gun. Like remington? Buy it! I've heard the 700 sps is an excellent rifle. Like another brand? buy it too! Theres tons of better rifles out there.
I like my Stevens. I think I'll keep it.
Before (100yards, cold barrel, bore fouled)
After (100 yards, warm barrel, approximately 10 rounds after the first group)
The gun is pretty much stock. I polished the trigger a bit but otherwise nothing has been done.
The load is 38.5gr H380 and 40gr VMAX moly. I use moly coated bullets as the gun tends to copper foul up after 50 shots.
As for gatehouses comments, to each his own.
Personally I haven't had the problems he has had with mine but I'm sure we're using them for different purposes.
Mine is strictly a gopher gun.
I rarely use the safety on it. When I have though it seemed to work fine. Then again I'm shooting it mostly in the summer. No need for gloves.
It has always fed rounds perfectly, we're talking 500+ since I bought it. No issues for me there.
What it did do when I first bought it was not eject properly every time. Mine is an early model and the extractor wasn't holding on to the cartridge firmly.
A quick email to savage and I had a new extractor in the mail right away. Free of charge. No issues since.
The trigger was rough when I first bought mine. About a half hour with some emery cloth made it much smoother.
The gun is what it is. It's a good cheap gun. Like remington? Buy it! I've heard the 700 sps is an excellent rifle. Like another brand? buy it too! Theres tons of better rifles out there.
I like my Stevens. I think I'll keep it.
powder burner
CGN frequent flyer
- Location
- Alberta, Canada
hey wobbles check out the nosler reloading manual. IMR 4895 with 55grain bullets. You get 3600 FPS according to the manual. I cannot remember the powder weight. This is what I use with 55gr Vmax.
The gophers get some hang time....
Gate,
I see what you mean about the hockey puck pad. Other than that I find them fairly decent for the price. I bought one to see what the fuss was about. I have decided to put a boydds on the 7-08, and I may purchase another stock for the .22-250. I want to eventually get timneys for them.
Trade my Stevens???? NEVER!
, however I do like the winchester model 70 XTR. I would buy one for the same price as a stevens. But that will never happen, cause they are out of my price range..... for now MUAHAHAHA
The gophers get some hang time....
Gate,
I see what you mean about the hockey puck pad. Other than that I find them fairly decent for the price. I bought one to see what the fuss was about. I have decided to put a boydds on the 7-08, and I may purchase another stock for the .22-250. I want to eventually get timneys for them.
Trade my Stevens???? NEVER!
, however I do like the winchester model 70 XTR. I would buy one for the same price as a stevens. But that will never happen, cause they are out of my price range..... for now MUAHAHAHA
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Never been able to get decent groups with anything but 40gr bullets. I've tried lots of diferent loads and powders but can't get anything under 1.5 to 2.0 MOA
I've also have a recipe for downloaded rounds. 12.5grs of blue dot with the 40 gr VMAXs. It's just as accurate as the pictured rounds or better and has low noise and almost no recoil. I haven't chrono'ed it yet but I would really like to.
I've also have a recipe for downloaded rounds. 12.5grs of blue dot with the 40 gr VMAXs. It's just as accurate as the pictured rounds or better and has low noise and almost no recoil. I haven't chrono'ed it yet but I would really like to.
Savage rifles are the reason I take a spare along when we go out of town to hunt. Two years in a row, my buddies with Savage rifles killed their deer with my 30 year old Winchester m70(now Gatehouses buddies 30 yr old m70).
One year the safety wouldn't release, the second year somthing happenned to the firing pin. Our local semi amateur gunsmith fixed both problems in about 20 minutes, but neither rifle would hunt.
I have owned several Remington rifles, not all of which fed perfectly, the above noted Winchester and another, a Browning abolt11, several Sako's, a couple of Tikka's and a Kimber.
Of all those you get what you pay for, I used to own way more guns than do now, but now I go for quality over quantity, three Sako's, a Kimber, a custom Rembo remington.
My advise to anyone contemplating buying a whole bunch of cheap guns is dont, look at the EE forum here.
.
One year the safety wouldn't release, the second year somthing happenned to the firing pin. Our local semi amateur gunsmith fixed both problems in about 20 minutes, but neither rifle would hunt.
I have owned several Remington rifles, not all of which fed perfectly, the above noted Winchester and another, a Browning abolt11, several Sako's, a couple of Tikka's and a Kimber.
Of all those you get what you pay for, I used to own way more guns than do now, but now I go for quality over quantity, three Sako's, a Kimber, a custom Rembo remington.
My advise to anyone contemplating buying a whole bunch of cheap guns is dont, look at the EE forum here.
.
Thanks for the info Ted, I just bedded it (12FVSS) about 1/2 hour ago. I dug up a fair bit of wood under the tang, I'll do a secondary bedding under it once the action bed has cured. I know, I'm a chicken, but the less metal is exposed to bedding compound, the less likely I'll get a lock-up.
Powder Burner: I've found out that I had to do a bit more carving than Boyd's lets on. That is of course if you want to have a good bedding job with at least 1/16" compound thickness. It wasn't too bad, and I don't blame Boyd's for leaving enough proud wood with which to work with. If you're going to bed that purdy lil' 7'08 of yours in that laminate stock, I'd suggest that you pillar mount as well. I'm still working on mine, I'd gladly share my experiences with you to make sure your job goes well.
Powder Burner: I've found out that I had to do a bit more carving than Boyd's lets on. That is of course if you want to have a good bedding job with at least 1/16" compound thickness. It wasn't too bad, and I don't blame Boyd's for leaving enough proud wood with which to work with. If you're going to bed that purdy lil' 7'08 of yours in that laminate stock, I'd suggest that you pillar mount as well. I'm still working on mine, I'd gladly share my experiences with you to make sure your job goes well.
gitrdun said:I dug up a fair bit of wood under the tang, I'll do a secondary bedding under it once the action bed has cured. I
Hi,
Does the tang area have to be bedded or free floated?
hxxp://www.savageshooters.com/Pages/Bedding101.html
I plan to bed mine this week
Thanks!
