Stevens 311A

B

BobbyB

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Hi I just picked up this 12Ga, 2 3/4 SG. Nice shape, has a S in a circle, so this would be 1965? . It has a 28" Barrel. Do you think it would be safe to fire steel shot? Also wonder if anyone knows what the factory choke in each barrel would be? Any help much appreciated?
Bob
 
Without knowing how it is choked it is hard to day. It should be marked somewhere on the barrels. If not written there may be a series of ** which would indicate restrictions.
 
Pretty good chance it will be full and modified. If one is full choke, I would not be afraid to shoot steel through it if the choke was opened up. As a quick check, if a dime will only go part way in the muzzle it is likely full choke.
 
Your gun was made in 1965. All 28" barrelled 311's were choked MOD FULL as were 30" barrelled guns. 26" barrelled guns were IMP CYL MOD. This may not be accurate with your gun as a previous owner may have had the chokes modified by opening. Either way your gun will be fine with Remington Sportsman steel loads 2 3/4" #4 shot at 1375 fps (IIRC) I would not shoot a steady diet of super fast loads like the Winchester, Kent offerings @1550 fps. Also #4 is a big as I would shoot.

Darryl
 
Just an S in a circle is not a Savage date code.

It should have a small oval with a number and a letter inside of it.

From your description it sounds like an inspectors mark.
 
Got one more problem with my 311A. Took off the fore piece (2 screws), tried to remove the barrels like I would with my LC Smith, but no go. Some other thing you have to do? Would appreciate some help!!
Bob
 
The fore end and hardware hinge down in one piece (unit) then the action is opened and the barrels are lifted off of the flats. There is no need to remove any screws to take this model down.

Darryl
 
Hi, that's the problem the fore end is on with screws. When its removed the barrels still won't disengage when the FA is opened. Possible this fore end is a replacement for the pull type? I have an LC Smith double with the lift up and remove fore end. Barrels hinge and lift out. Mystery!!
 
Once you unscrewed the wood what is left under the barrels? If it is a metal thing with a c shaped piece of metal hinged in the middle then that has to come off first.
 
The gun I pictured is a Fox B . It is a fancy Stevens for all intent and purpose. Some early Stevens 311 had screws visible on the exterior of the fore end wood. Most did not. External or internal they all have the same purpose, to secure the fore end iron to the wood.


Darryl
 
As stated earlier the entire fore end assembly pivots down from the front away from the barrels. This means the metal and wood portion as one unit. Then all you need to do is open the action and lift the barrels off. Pull from the front centre of the wood portion and pull steady and hard. It takes quite a tug to overcome the spring tension.

Darryl
 
When i did some research on the 311's, apparently there are no choke markings on the underside of the barrels as is standard. Examples with 26" barrels are IC/ Mod and 28 and 30" barrels are Mod/Full choked.

Full would be too constricted to take steel. Either dont shoot steel or have the full barrel honed out to a less constricted choke.
 
BobbyB said:
As I mentioned Darryl, My fore end is wood only, just comes off with taking out the screws,. The "D" Shaped metal apparatus below must come off separately, just can't see how!
Click to expand...

Yes, your forearm wood will come off if you take the screws out. Those are just retaining screws to hold the forearm wood to the forearm iron so all you did was separate the wood from the forend iron . It is the forearm iron that attaches the wood to the barrels. You do not take those screws out. Put your wood back on and reinstall the screws. Then just grab the front of the forearm and pull down. The wood and iron will then come off as an assembly. If that doesn't work then take it to a gunsmith as something may have been messed with.
 
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