Stevens favourite action project

rwnblack

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I picked up a Stevens favourite action at Christmas and decided to caseharden and blue it. My volunteered to clean it up and prep it for me and we casehardened it today. Now I need to sleve the barrel and make stocks for it. Ithonk it will be a nice rifle in the end.

Before
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After
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Hey Rwnblack,

If I may I would like to highjack your thread for a teaching moment. As a stock maker I often have customers send actions already blued or cch which makes it more difficult and time consuming to fit the wood to the metal without scratching the finished metal. Metal finish should be last if possible. Anyway I like your project and you will have a neat rifle when finished. I've done several, The last I made into a pistol grip with a Swiss butt plate. If you email me your address I can send photos.
 
I agree totally, I usually build the rifle then finish. Ni have a stock inletted and mostly shaped before I casehardened it. I can do the rest with the buttstock without having it on the action. The forend I can do on the barrel before I blue it. I jumped the gun this time as I was curious about a different approach to casehardening. It turned out okay but i will return to my previous method for the rest.

I have another that I am going to put n a pistol grip stock with small schuetzen stock. Should be cool when it is done.
 
I have a line on a somewhat neglected and derelict Stevens Favorite in .32.

I am generally unfamiliar with these, but like them a lot. How can one tell when one of them is beyond redemption? I want to rebarrel this in .32 S&W but I don't want to throw money at a gun that's too far gone.

Is it normal to find the breech block doesn't "click" shut? Is there a detent or similar that keeps the breech closed, or any force beyond hand pressure on the lever that does this? Seems super-sketchy to me.
 
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I have a line on a somewhat englected and derelict Stevens Favorite in .32.

I am generallyunfamiliar with these, but like them a lot. How canone tell when one of them is beyond redemption? I want to rebarrel this in .32 S&W but I don't want to throw money at a gun that's too far gone.

Is it normal to find the breech block doesn't "click" shut? Is there a detent or similar that keeps the breech closed, or any force beyond hand pressure on the lever that does this? Seems super-sketchy to me.

These are made for low pressure rimfire rounds so not much needed to lock the breech in place.
 
I have a line on a somewhat englected and derelict Stevens Favorite in .32.

I am generallyunfamiliar with these, but like them a lot. How canone tell when one of them is beyond redemption? I want to rebarrel this in .32 S&W but I don't want to throw money at a gun that's too far gone.

Is it normal to find the breech block doesn't "click" shut? Is there a detent or similar that keeps the breech closed, or any force beyond hand pressure on the lever that does this? Seems super-sketchy to me.

The Favorite, and its larger cousin, the Model 44, have swinging or tipping blocks that are pivoted at the forward end. The lever is connected to the block by a link. The lever and the link hold the block shut. It is this link that also pushes the hammer back to half #### when the lever is brought down. Unlike single shot rifles with a block that slides vertically in a mortise (Model 44 1/2, High and Low Walls, Ruger No.1, etc.), these are not particularly strong actions.
It is possible that the pivot points in the linkage that holds the block in place have worn. Might be possible to rebuild by replacing the screws; might be necessary to ream the holes and install custom made oversize screws.
You shouldn't have to hold the lever up to keep the block closed. The breech should stay closed without you having to hold it shut. How tight is the fit of the block to the barrel breech face? Wiggle and wobble when closed?
 
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I agree, the pins and screws wear on these actions and this causes them to not lock up tightly. Usually changing the pivot pins and screws tightens up the action nicely. I did one recently that was very loose and now it is nice and tight. I changed the pins but got lazy with the screws. I just added a bit of metal on the worn parts with my mig welder then turned them back to the orginal diameter. I have done the same thing with Ballard rifles. I find the pins and screws wear faster than the blocks and links so I don’t usually have to re sleave them.
 
I think I have a barrel in 32cal...in very good shape, for a Stevens favorite, has the half Octagon barrel.
I've moved more over to the marksman model...a little stronger action.
 
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