stevens - savage

woodchopper

woodchopper

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well I did it

I took my stevens 22-250 and took off the barrel 20" sporter and screwed on a savage 26" heavy fluted 22-250 barrel (new takeoff :D )

then to the range (farm) and holy crap :eek: it shoots :D

the loads I had for the old setup were 1 inch but with the new barrel there is no screwing around, dam thing shoots ragged holes. :D

so I can't slack off anymore

best $50 I spent on a barrel :D and $35 for the wrench :D
 
awesome, this is what I may do with my .223 Stevens. Just need to open up the barrel channel in the stock. Shouldn't be too hard to find a take off heavy contour barrel.


What do you do to head space the new barrel?
 
headspacign was done with a once fired cartridge, I just screwed the barrel on with the cartrige chambered till it was snug then tested it to see if it chambered a sized cartridge. All good

Barrel vice was 2 2"x4" clamped together and held between my knees :D


The stevens grey tuperware stock was easy enough to open up and I think that I will be getting a nicer stock sometime down the road, so not worried about making a mess of the stock.
 
which rifle was your once fired brass fired in?
I would check the headspace just to be sure as two different chambers could be way differant in spec, just me though ymmv
 
"...headspacing was done with a once fired cartridge..." That tell you anything about the headspace.
"...till it was snug..." That'll likely come loose too.
 
I have had an easy time removing MOST savage barrels - then the last one - they must have had a couple 6 foot plus 300 pound monkey's jumping on a ten foot barrel nut wrench tightening that one!

My barrel vise is usually a 6 inch bench vise with hardwood blocks cranked as tight as I can get it. If it spins - you're HOOPED - start over with "resin" on the barrel and blocks and crank tightly - and spinning in the blocks is not likely. As I couldn't find resin to save my life - my gunsmith advised that icing sugar worked the same - and it works VERY well indeed.

I always use a sized case to set headspace....that way I run a fired case through my sizer die - and stick it into the chamber - the headspace is set minimum for my sizing dies....

At any rate - the procedure is the same - #### the action with case in the chamber (obviously a live round is NOT A GOOD IDEA) - spin action onto barrel clamped in vise until it stops turning - tighten barrel lock nut - lock nut takes up about .003" of slack - which is some damn snug headspace.

I've had the same results - takeoff barrels shoot often VERY well.

If you think takeoff's work well, Mysticplayer and juanvaldez on the forums here will set you up with a match grade pre-chambered savage barrel and those things are WICKED accurate!
 
sunray said:
"...headspacing was done with a once fired cartridge..." That tell you anything about the headspace.
"...till it was snug..." That'll likely come loose too.
Click to expand...

ah yes... you know to be honest I ignore 95% of your post...

I have you pegged as one of those interenet public safety experts

just to expand on my post

the barrel was screwed into the action snug with a fired case, then the barrel nut (that savage uses) was torqued to the action locking the barrel in place,

not "likely to come loose too" :rolleyes:
 
Hi woodchopper,

Thought I'd ask if you could you explain your methods on opening up the stock for the new barrel. Looking at doing something similar for my .223 Stevens when I find a barrel.I plan on using the original stock and bedding the action in it.
 
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