stevens

A Savage Accu-trigger will not work in a Stevens 200. The Stevens 200 is the pre-AccuTrigger Savage 110/10 action. Just in case someone was thinking of buying a used one to put in a 200.

If anyone wants a free Accu-trigger, PM me and I will send you one. I threw many out but still have one or two left with the adjustment tool.

All the triggers I had left are now gone.
 
Last edited:
^ ah crap hes right.
someone i asked assured me it would fit, but they were wrong - apparently there are some extra machining operations on the newer Savage receivers to accomodate them. apparently some people have bubba'd them on but noone in their right mind should attempt this.

*edit*
sharpshootersupply.com makes a competition trigger ($85 - $15 cheaper to order from them than from brownells) that seems better than most aftermarket Savage triggers: it actually tries to address the design issues of the pre-Accutrigger trigger with a slight redesign - adding a second curved sear between the factory sear and trigger.
 
Last edited:
Wow.

Please keep posting the rest of this procedure. I've read about this process on the Stevens/Savage synthetic stock but this is the best set of details and photos I've found.

gitrdun said:
1. The recoil lug channel in these rifle stocks is quite large. So I break it down with a piece of plastic of hardwood. You'll have to fit it the the lower ribs of the existing stock. But the idea is to leave a channel space of 1/16" for the recoil lug.
Click to expand...

When you say "break it down" do you mean you partially fill the cavity? Are you partially filling it so it is not as deep or not as wide (forward and aft)?
I can't quite see where the 1/16" dimension works out to be.

gitrdun said:
6. Then in (pic #6) I thread a couple of bolts that I've cut the hex head off. They are about 4" long, I can't remember the thread size, but if you're truly interested, I'll dig up my bolts and measure them, PM me for the info. I slip some straws that I got form 7-11 over the bolts and coat the whole thing with PAM as a release agent.
Click to expand...

So the white covering in the photo is all PAM? I presume you put a very heavy coat on it.

gitrdun said:
I've also stiffened the forend using a 3/8" keystock that runs nearly the full length.
Click to expand...

Can't wait for part 2.

Thanks so much.
 
Nice work Gitrdun, the Savage trigger can easily be taken lighter by replacing the mainspring with the appropriate piano wire, but for $100 shipped, Sharp shooter supply makes an excellent match trigger that turns down to 11 oz. Have a look at savageshooters.com Fred Moreo is the owner of SSS and a wig on that site. Some of the site is for paid members but take a look at the thread on easing Savage bolt-lift, cool.
 
I'm a big fan of the SSS trigger. Installation is next to nothing. The key work is the adjustment of the safety, sear engagement and trigger weight, all well explained, but critical.
 
Fusilier, if you go back and check my previous post, I've edited and bolded the edits. You should find the answer to your questions.

Ok, so now the PAM release agent has been sprayed on and we've waited for it to drip over the kitchen sink and loose it's white foamy appearance.

Now, we can apply the bedding material to the stock. I prefer a bedding compound that is not runny. On this rifle, I used Devcon Plastic Steel Putty 10110. I've also used J-B Weld (inexpensive). I use a posicle stick to force the putty into the holes that were previously drilled in the bedding areas. Don't be shy, use lots of putty. It's better to remove and clean off excess than it is to end up with cavities.

Bedding0013.jpg


Bedding0014.jpg


I then lower the barreled action into the stock. The straws the were slipped over the guide rods should make it a tight fit into the pillars. That is what you want, this way the receiver mounting holes will be nicely centered. I use a couple of really neat clamps that I purchased at Peavey Mart just for this job. Look at how the clamps straddle the guide rods. I offset the clamps as to balance the weight so that the rifle doesn't want to swing to one side when in the craddle. Voila, now just be patient and let it cure for 24 hours.

Bedding0015.jpg


When cured, remove the clamps. Using a small ball peen hammer, gently tap the edge of the guide rods. Alternate between the two, go easy, all that you want to do is set up a vibration through the receiver that will break it free of the bedding material. Remember, your recoil lug is so perfectly fitted that you will have to withdraw the receiver very evenly out of the stock. Here's a couple of pics of my finish product. I did put a very light coat of black Krylon, just for good looks.

Bedding0017.jpg

Bedding0020.jpg


I'm going to describe the forend stiffening next. I didn't take photos during this process, but I'll get some pics of an untouched stock to ease explanation. Bare with me again, photobucket seems awfull busy :)
 
Last edited:
Stiffening the fore-end.

First a picture of a raw Stevens 200 stock. Same for all calibers as far as I know.

Forend.jpg


1. You will need a piece of 3/8" keystock - 9 1/4" long. You will also need a sling swivel stud, just like the existing one (Uncle Mike #2506-0). You'll also need a tap to match the threads on the sling swivel. And you also need some Lepage's 2 part epoxy (#12) again.

2. Remove the existing sling swivel and nut.

3. Drill a hole through the rear circle. This is meant to accept the 2nd sling swivel. Drill it the same diameter as the front one.

4. The keystock has to be fitted full lenght of the fore-end, between the two longitudinal rails. It will tightly squeeze in there. But, you have to remove the material from the cross-braces (marked X). The keystock must fully rest on the flat surface inside those two circular shapes which house the sling swivel. There's quit a bit of digging out to do.

5. Once the keystock can be fitted snuggly inside the rails, flip the stock over and through both stud holes, mark the keystock. Remove it and drill and tap accordingly to accept the threads of the sling swivels.

6. Before applying the 2 part epoxy, let's re-insert the keystock and thread the studs into the keystock. Tighten things up to make sure it fits well and that your swivels and nice and straight. With the keystock in place, drop the barreled action in, just to make sure that you still have a free-floated barrel. There should be a lot of clearance if the keystock is down on those two flat surfaces inside the circles. Once you're happy with it, remove it again.

7. Now, you will want to make sure that you have enough epoxy to fill that whole forend (minus the volume of the keystock of course). I use the dremel tool to rough up the surface of the stock which will be in contact with epoxy. I also drilled a few shallow holes into the keystock and some into the inside of the forend. This ensures that you have locking bonds between steel, epoxy and forend.

8. Return the keystock one final time in the forend. Screw the sling swivels in and tighten. Put a bit of plasticine into the top of the threaded holes in the keystock that remain exposed. This will ensure that epoxy does not flow in there and render your studs unremovable. Now pour the epoxy in, push it into hollows, under the keystock, filling all nooks and crannies. Don't worry about making a mess, these plastic stocks clean up well. Don't make a mess of your bedding job though. Have enough epoxy on hand to even go over top of the keystock to fully cover it. Not so much so that you won't have a floated barrel though.

9. Once things are cured, I pull the recoil pad and remove that styrofoam pad from inside the hollow butt-end. I then fill it with "the good stuff" foam insulation. Leave the stock sitting vertical butt-end up.

You'll see that your guns now feels very, very different. You'll like the change, I'm sure. Good luck.
 
twidds said:
I am in the market for a new stevens model 200 in the 22-250 caliber. Most of what I have read about the stevens models say that they are a fairly decent gun and the reason they are so cheap is that they are not fancy but still shoot straight and for a guy who doesent want to break the bank they are a good investment. Is this true or am I just wasting my money on something that wont shoot straight?
Click to expand...

i was in the same boat but in a .308. although i was dissuaded by one of my friends who told me about the new marlin XL7, so im waiting for some more reviews on that.

Cheers.
Payam
 
savagefan said:
Marlin has apparently ripped off a Savage design, either go with what works or buy a pig in a poke.
Click to expand...

but they added their version of an accutrigger. im not argueing with you, i agree, but then again why buy a rinco M305 instead of a SA? because its a better deal.. but lets not get into that argument right now.

Cheers,
P.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom