Sti Trojan 9mm help

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johno753

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I bought a new sti Trojan, after cleaning took it to the range to try it out and ran into problems from the second round. It doesn't matter if I put factory or reloads down the barrel it just won't slide back and take the second round. I'm shooting all 124gr ammo.

Second trip to the range I put a lighter recoil spring 13lb into it and got a little movement on the slide but still not enough to #### and chamber a new round. I checked the spring length against my norinco np29 that I have and the spring still is still 1/2" longer than the sti.

Hoping someone can shed some light on where to go with this gun ?
 
Check that there is no binding between the slide and frame- that can stop the recoil cycle in its tracks. If all is well, try 147gn bullets- they'll normally cycle more positively than lighter bullets.
 
johno753 said:
I bought a new sti Trojan, after cleaning took it to the range to try it out and ran into problems from the second round. It doesn't matter if I put factory or reloads down the barrel it just won't slide back and take the second round. I'm shooting all 124gr ammo.

Second trip to the range I put a lighter recoil spring 13lb into it and got a little movement on the slide but still not enough to #### and chamber a new round. I checked the spring length against my norinco np29 that I have and the spring still is still 1/2" longer than the sti.

Hoping someone can shed some light on where to go with this gun ?
Click to expand...

Sorry to hear you are having a problem with your new STI. I've been looking at one for a while now in 9mm.

Have you tried contacting STI directly? I am interested in hearing what the cause is, and how STI works with the problem.
 
1) ensure that the slide/frame is well lubricated. 1911s may not function if dry - particularly if it new and tight.
2) ensure the barrel link and slide stop shaft are well lubricated.
3) I'd try a lighter recoil spring. I use 10 lbs in my 1911. In my .40 Trojan I use a 14 lb spring (and have used 12 lbs) with 180 PF loads.
4) check that you've re-assembled the pistol correctly.

While you've got the gun apart to lube the barrel link check the slide/frame rails for any obvious burrs or bumps.

Lastly, assuming there are no mechanical issues, cycle the pistol manually and feel for rough spots. Cycle repeatedly.

I bought a STI USPSA in .40 several years ago. It didn't cycle on every shot. There was nothing went with the gun, it was just very tight. After 2k everything smoothed out and now the gun is very reliable and accurate. At the time I was concerned, but a 1911 vet at the time told me that was normal and part of breaking in a 1911. I hope that advice holds true in this situation.
 
I don't know about STIs but the factory weight recoil spring in my Kimber Stainless II Target is 12 pounds. Given that they are both full size 9mm 1911s I would expect the STI to use something similar.
 
You can check the slide rails for any "new gun tightness" by field stripping the gun and with the guts out put the slide back on and see if it slides easily back and forth to where the slide is back fully. If there's a tight spot or two check for any burrs which might be an issue. Or a machine shaving which may be stuck to the metal. It's a NEW gun after all. If there's nothing then oil the slide and work it back and forth a lot to burnish the tight spot down.

If that isn't the issue put the barrel back in and check the fit to the bushing as the slide moves along it's regular path. You'll need to insert a slip of some thin plastic or other to lift the barrel up into lockup as the slide is moved to the closed position.

If all this checks out and the fits seem good or only minimally draggy then it might just be that you're holding your thumbs against the side of the slide. You don't give any indication as to your experience with 1911's. If you have mostly shot guns which do not have as deep a slide as the 1911 you may have gotten a habit of pushing your thumbs against the side of the frame on those guns where now on a 1911 that same spot is part of the slide instead. There are not too many handguns with slides that come down as far as on a 1911.
 
Contact Sean at Freedom Ventures. They are the STI importer/rep for Canada. Rest assured that STI and Sean will make things right. STI has one of (if not the best) customer service records in the industry. Great folks to deal with.

Thanks,
Cal.
 
I have seen a STI slide hang up because the ejector was too tall. Might be worth a look. Those tight slides can cause problems until you get them worn in a bit too though.
 
johno753 said:
I bought a new sti Trojan, after cleaning took it to the range to try it out and ran into problems from the second round. It doesn't matter if I put factory or reloads down the barrel it just won't slide back and take the second round. I'm shooting all 124gr ammo.

Second trip to the range I put a lighter recoil spring 13lb into it and got a little movement on the slide but still not enough to #### and chamber a new round. I checked the spring length against my norinco np29 that I have and the spring still is still 1/2" longer than the sti.

Hoping someone can shed some light on where to go with this gun ?
Click to expand...

Go with a 10lb spring at the highest, I run 8lb springs in a few STI 9mm's. Have ran 7lb also with no issues.
 
Your answer should lie somewhere in these suggestions.
I have a very high round count Trojan in 9mm and it will function the lightest loads reliably. I've ran a 10lb spring from new..
I run all of my 1911's 'wet'.... Don't be afraid to use lubešŸ˜‰

1riot1ranger said:
1) ensure that the slide/frame is well lubricated. 1911s may not function if dry - particularly if it new and tight.
2) ensure the barrel link and slide stop shaft are well lubricated.
3) I'd try a lighter recoil spring. I use 10 lbs in my 1911. In my .40 Trojan I use a 14 lb spring (and have used 12 lbs) with 180 PF loads.
4) check that you've re-assembled the pistol correctly.

While you've got the gun apart to lube the barrel link check the slide/frame rails for any obvious burrs or bumps.

Lastly, assuming there are no mechanical issues, cycle the pistol manually and feel for rough spots. Cycle repeatedly.

I bought a STI USPSA in .40 several years ago. It didn't cycle on every shot. There was nothing went with the gun, it was just very tight. After 2k everything smoothed out and now the gun is very reliable and accurate. At the time I was concerned, but a 1911 vet at the time told me that was normal and part of breaking in a 1911. I hope that advice holds true in this situation.
Click to expand...
 
After cleaning it and lubing everything really well I took it back to the shop where I bought it, got a phone call saying everything ran just fine. I found out that yes you have to run the sti wet due to the tolerances used at the factory.

Lesson learnt, big difference between norinco and sti lol put about a thousand rounds through it since and not one stoppage
 
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