Okay, I have a Remington M700 VSF in .223 that is insanely difficult to chamber a round in. I think after looking at it last night that the ejector spring is too stiff. I'm not really enjoying having to pound down on the bolt handle to get it down.
stiff chambering 700
- Thread starter Dustin
- Start date
Is the ammo you are trying to chamber new factory ammo? reloads from brass fired in the rifle or from once fired brass you purchased? It could be a problem with the extractor or the ejector but I would start with the ammo.
Is the bullet jamming into the rifling?
More info would be helpful.
44Bore
Is the bullet jamming into the rifling?
More info would be helpful.
44Bore
maple_leaf_eh
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
Don't pound the bolt handle! They are welded on, and have been known to snap the welds. Take it back to the dealer. Remington is notorious for lawyer-approved loose chambers that shoot the longest available bullets. Maybe you got one that is the opposite.
If you think that the ejector is the problem, its easy enough to remove. Try it without. Its unlikely a stiff ejector spring would require the bolt handle to be pounded shut. As as maple leaf eh has pointed out, the handles can be detached.
An ejector that is frozen in the out position could cause these symptoms.
As 44Bore has suggested, check your ammunition.
An ejector that is frozen in the out position could cause these symptoms.
As 44Bore has suggested, check your ammunition.
gunasauras
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Western Manitoba
You can check the ejector easily enough. Just take a fired case and put it on the bolt face, under the extractor and push on it so it compresses the ejector fully. If you can do this by hand with not a great deal of force, then I'ld say it is not the ejector. Just make sure it compresses all the way into the bolt face with the cart head flush. It could just be crud or dirt in the ejector hole causing some binding......this test will also tell you this if done and observed carefully....wish I was closer Dustin so I could have a look at it for you...
After you fire the round that you just pounded in does the bolt lift and slide back ok?
Has this rifle always done this? If no, what changed?
Have you bedded it recently?
Take the bolt out and look with a flash light at the chamber see anything
abnormal?
Does the spent brass have any scrape marks on the outside?
Mike
Has this rifle always done this? If no, what changed?
Have you bedded it recently?
Take the bolt out and look with a flash light at the chamber see anything
abnormal?
Does the spent brass have any scrape marks on the outside?
Mike
gunrunner100
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- NW Ontario
Does this model use a rivetted extractor?Check to see if the inside of the extractor rivet head was not dressed down prior to shipping from the factory. The extractor should have some give, but if the head of the rivet is too high it will #### the case head and scrape when the bolt is turned.
When you chamber a round with difficulty, is it equally hard to open the bolt without firing that round? If so, are there any rifling marks on the bullet or any marks on the case neck?
When you chamber a round with difficulty, is it equally hard to open the bolt without firing that round? If so, are there any rifling marks on the bullet or any marks on the case neck?
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Donny Fenn1
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- East Kootenays
i have a 223 model 700 that did the same thing when new, is the chamber really clean? i did a serious cleaning with something i can't remember now using a sinclair acion cleaning kit and things got better right away...
the stuff coming out looked kind of like gummed up oil or cutting fluid....
the stuff coming out looked kind of like gummed up oil or cutting fluid....
You could try pushing an empty into the chamber then push the bolt fwd and down to make the rim jump the ext. and then open the bolt just short of ejecting and then re chamber the same empty while it's still stuck on the end of the bolt .... I bet it chambers fine this time.
Since it's taking brass off the case look at the end of the bolt and see where brass has transfered to. Is the ring extractor not compressing? Put the bolt in your hand and play with it with an empty case, it should be obvious. The ring extractor should be compressable with the back end of a pen, easily.
Mike
Since it's taking brass off the case look at the end of the bolt and see where brass has transfered to. Is the ring extractor not compressing? Put the bolt in your hand and play with it with an empty case, it should be obvious. The ring extractor should be compressable with the back end of a pen, easily.
Mike
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J
JoeP's old business account
Guest
maple_leaf_eh said:
Thats good advice. However on the Remington actions the bolt handle is soldered on. Some of the German rifles or the Viper are Tig welded which will normally last longer the shape of the bolt handle if the bolt handle is pounded on.
The older Tikka M65 and M55 rifles had the bolt body/handle forged from one piece. You cannot beat this type of joint on an action.
