Stock Armalite Triggers - Worst POS ever

Ok, so here's an important question: who in Canada

a) actually has a good trigger upgrade in stock
b) doesn't ask 2X the US prices? (As dealers, they aren't paying full consumer prices, and our dollar is near parity: c'mon guys!)
 
In one of my Armalite lowers I put a JP spring kit and I had some people thinking it was a aftermarket trigger. It was $30 and I said hey why not, but if you have the money go for a Gisselle.
 
scotty said:
In one of my Armalite lowers I put a JP spring kit and I had some people thinking it was a aftermarket trigger. It was $30 and I said hey why not, but if you have the money go for a Gisselle.
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Same here,....the JP spring kit was easy to install and everyone who tried it liked it.
 
Longshot said:
Don't waste your time and money on a new one.Give yourself a .25 cent trigger job!

How do you do it you say?

Stage #1
Take off your upper.Find a piece of para cord or other similar rope/twine.Put said para cord under the hammer.#### hammer.Pull staight up on para cord as hard as you can while squeezing the trigger slowly.Trigger will be extremely hard to pull.If it is you know your doing it right.Eventually trigger will break and the hammer will go forward.DON'T let the hammer slam into the frame.Enough of this will dent the aluminum and make it so your bolt catch does not function.Repeat as much as nessisary.Put back on the upper and try it holding the rifle as per normal.

Stage #2
Enjoy your new smooth trigger.

Note:
This method does NOT change the trigger weight.What it does do is smooths out the pull so you don't notice the weight.
There are other options including honing the sear,but I have never really had to after using this method.
Doing this has smoothed out the triggers on all the rifles I have shot in competition including 2 second place CFSAC finishes, a third place at NSCC and a good showing at Bisley.You DON'T need a fancy light trigger on these guns to make them shoot.Save your money for practice ammo! ;)
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I'm having trouble picturing this so I'm going to ask a few questions just so I get it right.

You place paracord under the hammer and #### the hammer. After the hammer is cocked, you pull up on the para cord putting pressure on the hammer/sear? Then pulling the trigger slowly is supposed to polish everything up?

How many times do you do this? Is there a noticeable difference so that one would know when to stop?
 
One note with the armalite and RRA 2 stage triggers, they are too light for service competition. Minimu requirement is 2.5 kilograms which is 5.5 lbs. We do not check for trigger weights her in bc, haven't up untill now, new director might have diferent opinion, we don't like excluding anyone because of their triggers. However if you go to Ottawa you will have to pass trigger testing. Something to think about, I shot in Ottawa and had issues with my trigger being too light.
 
Wow, that is a great trick Longshot! I just did my two lowers in 10 minutes. Really noticeable.
 
webman1 said:
Correction on the Armalite Tactical 2-stage trigger. It is adjustable from 7.5lbs downwards to about 4.5lbs(for safety). This is from Armalite tech note #68 and 1st hand experience, so can be adjusted to stay within the rules. Very nice trigger pull for the money.
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It's good to hear this. I just put this Tac 2-stage in my stripped lower and this thread was getting me worried I wasted my money. 1st build and all.
 
I did the Para cord trick this afternoon, about 200 trigger pulls, and it did clean it a very, very tiny bit. But at this rate I think I'll have to pull that trigger 5000 times before it gets acceptable.

Oh, and my problem is not really the weight, it's just the horribly creepy, uneven and inconsistent pull. It doesn't even work like a 2 stage trigger, it works just like a glock trigger with a bunch of sand in it.

Will an aftermarket trigger like the RRA feel like a Garand trigger? I'd love it, if I could have my M1's trigger in my AR!
 
I'm going to suggest the cheaper alternative and it's the same advice we pass on to the soldiers on the LFCA Teams. Oh, BTW, I've had great success with this method, and the best part, no tools are required.

We all agree that the single stage trigger of the AR family is bumpy, gritty, goofy, and heavy for a reason. The first 3 adjectives of the previous sentence can be solved by this simple method.

1) Unload and clear the boomstick. Separate the upper and lower receiver halves.
2) Take the lower receiver by your master hand (I'm a right hander) and with your left palm / thumb, gently catch the hammer as you squeeze the trigger. As LongShot said, don't let the hammer smack the lower receiver. I like to add a dab of grease (M14 curved tip grease syringes from my M14 Clinics) :D

3) #### and click your assembly throughout an entire Leafs game, excluding pee breaks.

This minor operation will SMooooooth out the engaging surfaces and not risk breaking anything (scared to break my glasses if that paracord slips... heh heh heh). It will not reduce the trigger pull, but I personally know many, many Queens Medal winners who kick my butt with their C7A1's and A2's all having the typical heavy service grade trigger.

Save your money and buy practice ammo, then shoot at your local PRA's matches! :D

Some of you were expecting the more expensive approach? Sorry, wrong source! ;)

:cheers:

Barney
 
Longshot said:
;) So many non believers on here!
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This trick smoothes the surface between sear surfaces . Easy alternative to proper trigger job ( hone / polish surface )

Now I am not saying you need a fancy trigger to shoot better, but there is no way a trigger job on std trigger will yield a trigger pull similar to a good aftermarket.

The reason for this is this "trigger job" method only makes the sear disengagement not as gritty and hence will feel lighter / better. ( you can also change pull weight by goofing with springs ) . Since you are still stuck with the geometry of the engagement surfaces ....not a good idea to mess with that ! ...the DISTANCE of initial take up, and most importantly the disengagment distance and finally reset cannot change

This is the difference between a stock trigger and a RRA 2 stage. Once relatively light first stage is taken up, you hit a definite light 2nd stage. With only very slight additional movement trigger breaks . . This to me is far far more important that simply the pull weight

This is what I personally want in a trigger. Again, not saying you NEED a trigger like that to shoot well .

I just want a trigger that is similar to my precision bolt guns. Its a muscle memory thing...thats all

Lastly, the only reason the Geissle Hi Speed is a notch up over the RRA is its full adjustability. You can vary the sear engagement. This is important because if you install the RRA in a numerous different lowers, they will most likely vary slighty due to tolerance in FCG pin hole locations. The Geissle allows you to optimize the engagement.

You can also change the 2nd stage pull weight independent of 1st stage ( this is not the case when you goof with your springs ) . Lastly you can adjust reset distance from super long Glock like to super short tweaked 1911
 
I like Hungry's method, in fact, I've already pull the triger about 500 times that way. The only problem is that progress is even slower than with the cord method, but I'll keep doing it for now.

I also read somewhere that using a little bit of some polishing paste (#7 or something like that) between sear and hammer will give quicker results, but I have no idea where to find it.

Finally, TRG-42, that is exactly the results I am looking for, 'cause that is the way my other 2 stage triggers work. However, these AR's are really money pits, so I have to be careful, unless I want a quick divorce. So, I'd say, the Geissle seems to be exactly what I need, but I know I'll never bring myself to spend that kind of money on a trigger, so if the RRA 2 stage trigger is similar, I will go for it when economic conditions allow. Thanks.
 
Is this just a crap trigger on the Armalite? My LMT is fine with no gritty or creep.
 
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