Stock care
- Thread starter deertaker
- Start date
If there is a finish on it, any oil type finish you add might not adhere properly. Oil finishes are best added to a bare stock or one that has been finished with the same oil.
On factory satin or oil finishes I just use gunstock wax or minwax paste wax to protect. You can add and buff everytime you go out in inclement weather if you like.
On factory satin or oil finishes I just use gunstock wax or minwax paste wax to protect. You can add and buff everytime you go out in inclement weather if you like.
"...might not adhere..." Won't. Like you say, oil finishes go on stripped wood or they won't soak in. Regular floor wax or marine grade varnish will work.
Plan 'B' would be to take the stock off, strip the existing finish and rub in pure tung oil(not tung oil finish). No BLO or waxes are required. Tung oil, properly rubbed in, gives a hard, water proof, shiney finish. Goes on in several light coats with 24 hours drying time between coats. The more coats you rub in, the shinier the finish.
Any scratches are fixed by applying a bit more tung oil.
Plan 'B' would be to take the stock off, strip the existing finish and rub in pure tung oil(not tung oil finish). No BLO or waxes are required. Tung oil, properly rubbed in, gives a hard, water proof, shiney finish. Goes on in several light coats with 24 hours drying time between coats. The more coats you rub in, the shinier the finish.
Any scratches are fixed by applying a bit more tung oil.
Stock wax or a good paste wax is the easiest way to care for a factory finish, but don't just limit it to the stock. Put the wax on metal surfaces that are out of sight and won't receive the occasional wipe.
When I take my rifles down for an end of season cleaning I put a covering of wax on the underside of the barrel and receiver where they fit into the stock. I continue to be amazed at the lads who never remove the stocks or fore-ends from their rifles and then are appalled at the rust and pitting when they finally do.
I follow sunray's method for all of the stocks I've refinished and not only does it bring out the grain, but is easy to do and maintain. If you're willing to put in the time it gives a very rich, deep looking finish. If it looks a bit too shiny for your tastes a light rub with fine pumice powder will do the trick.
When I take my rifles down for an end of season cleaning I put a covering of wax on the underside of the barrel and receiver where they fit into the stock. I continue to be amazed at the lads who never remove the stocks or fore-ends from their rifles and then are appalled at the rust and pitting when they finally do.
I follow sunray's method for all of the stocks I've refinished and not only does it bring out the grain, but is easy to do and maintain. If you're willing to put in the time it gives a very rich, deep looking finish. If it looks a bit too shiny for your tastes a light rub with fine pumice powder will do the trick.
Assuming you are wanting to "re-finish" the stock, a fine pure oil finish is a very easy to maintain. Once applied any scratches can easily be managed with applying more oil. A good oil finish takes time to apply but what good things in life do not. Suggest going with lee valley pure tung oil. It really brings out the grain in wood.
Would raw tung oil fit this pure tung oil discription?
Found some of that today in my travels.
- Location
- Lloydminster
We sell 'Howard's feed n' wax ' as its what Cooper uses on their stocks. Seems to be a great product.
Clay nailed it right on the head! Howard feed and Wax! $17 a bottle, Home Hardware. I have been a cabinet maker for the last 22 years and found this by accident a few years back, great stuff to put on laquer, varnish or any oil finish! Works real good to protect any Catylitic laquer finishes from scratches, cheers Dale Z!
Not sure how a manufacturer would call raw tung oil. If you contact the company they may indicate whether it is unmodified. All a modified, boiled, "finish" product produces is a more varnish style shiny finish. The pure product will provide a matte finish without the shine to scare your game away. Cheers.
Traditional stock finish is a linspeed finish made of boiled linseed, turps and your choice of oil based artist tint. By far the toughest finish out there and one of the easiest to patch never mind protecting the wood exceptionally well. A proper rubbed oil finish is the prettiest thing you can do to a nice piece of wood and really hard to screw up. Also dries a lot faster than tung plus I really dislike the smell of tung. Linseed with turps has a sweet aroma I can handle and my wife is ok with me doing it in the house. Also mixes well with pretty much any varnish for a really shiny finish if that is your choice. Paint stripper wont touch it either.
