Stock Finish

[Ganderite]

Some of my old military rifles are developing blemishes in the wood finish. Mildew maybe?

Anyway, I find that if I rub it with a cloth, it almost cleans up. I would like to rub them down with some kind of oil or wood finish (furniture polish?) to clean them up.

Please don't say BLO. I dislike that stuff. What would be second best?

Lee Valley must have something.

 

[louthepou]

Hmm, don't be so hard on BLO. There's a world of variety out there.

Most commercial BLO has lots of dryers in it and is not fun to use. But, pure linseed oil behaves quite differently.

For me, top of the line is, as you hoped for, found at Lee Valley. The brand is "Tried and True".

Second would be, surprisingly, found at Canadian Tire; BLO from a company called "Recochem".

Last is the Circa1850 brand. Too much dryer in this, sort of behaves like a varnish.

I prefer the first two over tung oil any day.

Lou

 

[Ganderite]

Thanks. Will be near a Lee Vallery store tomorrow.

 

[paulz]

I second Lou's recommendation of Lee Valley's "Tried and True". It is a little thicker than run of the mill BLO and a little goes a long way, doesn't smell as strong either. You might also want to look at the one with beeswax in it.

 

[Pblatzz]

At the same time Please note that Military rifle do not and are not shiney. I would forget the beeswax and just stick with BLO, it's the best.

Oh, I forgot, What make is the rifle? Enfield, Mauser, Garand??

Peter

 

[sunray]

"...blemishes in the wood finish..." What do they look like? A picture would be best.
"...pure linseed oil behaves quite differently..." Right. It's a laxative for cattle. It takes a very long time to dry and leaves the wood sticky.

 

[louthepou]

"Right. It's a laxative for cattle. It takes a very long time to dry and leaves the wood sticky.

It also dilutes oil paint, and weather proofs cement slabs (I think).

Very, very, very thin coats will dry (eventually) and not feel sticky. Very very thin, and very long time to dry... sometimes there's just no time to wait...

Lou

 

[Ganderite]

The rifles in hand are pre WW1 mausers. But many others are aboutthe same. Looking for a military correct oil finish.

 

[louthepou]

Hmm, I do not know about the proper finish for that Mauser. I know the my Enfields require BLO, and Mosin Nagants (usually?) have Shellac... OK Mauser people, let us know what is required!

Lou

 

[PerversPépère]

Dilute, dilute...

Russian Mosins just love being dunked in shellack.
As for Finn ones, there are as many finishes as there are districts, I guess.
Some have absolutely no finish at all; some other make use of turpentine and pine tar (such as the one we put under wooden crosscountry skis), other use a mix of linseed oil and beeswax diluted with turpentine and the most northern regions of Lapland mix pine tar and reindeer tallow (!) as a protective coating for wood. When attempting a real righteous restoration, you must know the exact provenance of your Finn Mosin...

You can hep BLO application by diluting it 50/50 with pure turpentine; this speeds up linseed oil polymerization, especially if wiped in very thin coats and hand rubbed vigorously to induce heat. Give 24 hours between coats.
ONE BIG CAUTION though: NEVER, EVER let linseed oil soaked rags linger in a heap, especially when mixed with turpentine. In some conditions this creates enough heat to self-ignite.
Dispose of them in a metal container filled with water or simply burn them in a woodburning stove.
PP.

 

[Pblatzz]

I was told US stock use Tung oil to finish.

I will ask around for the mauser.

Pete