Stock for a Ross Rifle
- Thread starter Fistfull
- Start date
You don't mention which model.
There are essentially no readily available stocks for Rosses, apart from take-offs salvaged from scrapped rifles.
You might be able to get an uninletted synthetic stock blank and have it inletted to suit. The blank would have to be the correct external size to accept the barrelled action. Robertson composites might have something. It would be a lot of work, and I seriously doubt if it would make economic sense.
Similarly a wooden sporting stock could be made from a blank.
A 1910 pattern would be less challenging than a 1905, but neither would be easy.
There have been ongoing discussions about having replacement stocks carved, but I am unaware of anything becoming available.
Years ago, I bought a semi-finished 1910 sporter stock from Don Robinson. I believe he sold his patterns to Wilson in SK.
Unless the barrelled action is in superior condition with an outstanding bore, repairing the existing stock is likely the only practical option.
There are essentially no readily available stocks for Rosses, apart from take-offs salvaged from scrapped rifles.
You might be able to get an uninletted synthetic stock blank and have it inletted to suit. The blank would have to be the correct external size to accept the barrelled action. Robertson composites might have something. It would be a lot of work, and I seriously doubt if it would make economic sense.
Similarly a wooden sporting stock could be made from a blank.
A 1910 pattern would be less challenging than a 1905, but neither would be easy.
There have been ongoing discussions about having replacement stocks carved, but I am unaware of anything becoming available.
Years ago, I bought a semi-finished 1910 sporter stock from Don Robinson. I believe he sold his patterns to Wilson in SK.
Unless the barrelled action is in superior condition with an outstanding bore, repairing the existing stock is likely the only practical option.
Junkman, I must assume that you are shooting nothing but junk, to judge from that post.
I would really suggest that you consider a few little things.
1. Ross Rifles took ALL the top prizes in the Imperial shoots before World War One.
2. In 1911, a Ross Rifle shot a 74-point target at 1100 yards. That was out of a 75-point `possible`.... and it did it with iron sights. This score was only equalled in competition 50 years later.
3. I have a Ross here that will shoot half-inch groups all day long if YOU can hold it (which I doubt). It has been through a World War AND 50 years in the Chilean Navy.
You should attempt to educate yourself BEFORE making silly statements.
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I would really suggest that you consider a few little things.
1. Ross Rifles took ALL the top prizes in the Imperial shoots before World War One.
2. In 1911, a Ross Rifle shot a 74-point target at 1100 yards. That was out of a 75-point `possible`.... and it did it with iron sights. This score was only equalled in competition 50 years later.
3. I have a Ross here that will shoot half-inch groups all day long if YOU can hold it (which I doubt). It has been through a World War AND 50 years in the Chilean Navy.
You should attempt to educate yourself BEFORE making silly statements.
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Try to post some good pics of it, we can tell you what you have. If it is a regular WWI Mk III rifle, a member on here is gearing up to make new stocks.
If something else...good luck...
Just need to find the stop duplicator that's long enough to fit a whole ross stock - that's even trickier than finding nose caps and a stock.
NO.
I carve wood for a hobby and have done so for years. Everything I decided to carve turned out the way I wanted to for so long I got cocky. Then I bought a Ross 1910 with a splintered fore-end on its stock and figured "how hard could this possibly be?"
Well, I will tell you that carving a stock from plank is an activity that inspires rage.
Especially when done with hand tools such as chisels and rasps. From keeping the edged tools sharp and the lines crisp to coming back to your 60 % in-letted stock to find the humidity change has warped / cracked / checked it beyond use. Find someone who has done this before and is good at it. I am currently working on my 5th or 6th version.
My advise is to purchase one from someone else. I'm too stubborn to quit.
Scratch inletting a barrelled action is more difficult than the exterior shaping.
A 1905/Mk. II is much more complicated to inlet than a 1910/Mk. III.
If I was looking to have replacement military pattern stocks carved, I would go with a splice under the front band. This would keep the length managable, make it easier to find a carving machine. Wouldn't affect either servicability or appearance.
A 1905/Mk. II is much more complicated to inlet than a 1910/Mk. III.
If I was looking to have replacement military pattern stocks carved, I would go with a splice under the front band. This would keep the length managable, make it easier to find a carving machine. Wouldn't affect either servicability or appearance.
Ciphery, mine is just an old .303, one of the ones that came up here after the old HMS CANADA went for scrap in Chile. At least, that's the particular Ross I was referring to; I do have several more, mostly wrecks, a couple of nice "stripped" Mark IIIs, few Bubbas and a couple of fairly nice factory conversion sporters, post-War Two.
My Chileno is marked to 16th Battalion and it is a VERY early serial, likely a trials rifle, and so saw service in Bermuda, England, France then likely with the Royal Navy and then 50 years with the Armada de Chile and then sold off for junk. Her Chilean number is DA 426. Nice bore, too; it outshoots my Number 4 (which has a 12x scope) and does it with iron sights. They were accurate. My Grandfather used one in the Great War for sniping, had a lot of respect for them. I can understand why.
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My Chileno is marked to 16th Battalion and it is a VERY early serial, likely a trials rifle, and so saw service in Bermuda, England, France then likely with the Royal Navy and then 50 years with the Armada de Chile and then sold off for junk. Her Chilean number is DA 426. Nice bore, too; it outshoots my Number 4 (which has a 12x scope) and does it with iron sights. They were accurate. My Grandfather used one in the Great War for sniping, had a lot of respect for them. I can understand why.
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