Stock Refinishing Question

W

wasrupzuk

CGN Regular
Rating - 100%
45   0   0
Location
Northcoast, BC
So I’m in the process of refinishing one of my wood stocks.
Step 1 is to strip the old finish, after reading enough threads recommending 1850 I figured I’ll use that.
This stock has white line plastic spacers in the fore end and pistol grip that are glued in/laminated between the wood bits which are non-removable.
I noticed on the stripper instructions it said don’t use it on plastic…every other stripper I looked at said the same thing.
My question;
Should I be worried about the stripper damaging this plastic or is it just a catch all on the can and don’t worry about it for this type of plastic or, if the threat is real what should I use to protect it while stripping?
I was thinking vinyl pinstripe tape but that’s a plastic too.
Any tips are greatly appreciated,
Thanks
 
You might be able to coat the white spacers with Vaseline or something ? I've done that with other projects but NOT with C1850. You'd have to Very carefully put the V on and maybe avoid getting 'real close' to the plastic with the 1850 ? It might be simpler to remove the White with a solvent like acetone - unless that'll f-the plastic ?
 
Jahnj0584 said:
Just try a dot of it inside your barrel channel to see what it does.
Click to expand...

Great idea, thanks.

Mrd 74 said:
And if it melts the plastic then cover it with masking tape and hand sand that area after you've finished stripping.
Click to expand...

Sounds like a plan, thanks.

smoji said:
It WILL melt the white plastic spacer. Didn't read that in a book.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the heads up, that was what I was worried about…
so a bit of wide masking tape it is with sanding to follow.
Appreciate the help guys,
Cheers
 
Just thinking out loud here.
Mask off the plastic and strip one side. Then re-mask it and strip the other side. There would likely be a narrow band of wood on each side of the spacer that would need to be done using abrasives or a scraper.
 
In my experience any type of stripper likes to seep under tape.... You are going to be sanding lightly or using steel wool after anyway so apply your stripper right up to about 1/4-1/8 inch from your spacers then sand or scrape those bits after the rest of the stock is stripped.
 
I would 100% not rely on tape. Tape a safety border 2" away from what you intend to protect and do that area by hand after. If it seeps under the tape seam, it will easily go 1.5" if it's liquid in wood.
 
They say a picture is worth a thousand words.




You can see the tape was well wetted with stripper. I do not take the armchair approach and tend to only recommend methods I am familiar with.
 
B_noser said:
They say a picture is worth a thousand words.
You can see the tape was well wetted with stripper. I do not take the armchair approach and tend to only recommend methods I am familiar with.
Click to expand...

Good post.

Also worth a note, if you're masking something thin, having the correct choice of tape widths is important.

1/8, 1/4, 1/2 Inch Wide Fine line Masking Tape

5HtLaJD.jpg
 
When I refinished one of my guns, I allowed the stripper to disolve the white spacer. After the stripper was done, I cleaned the gap, carefully masked it off and filled it with a black epoxy. I think it looks better than the white.
 
The above 3-4 posts are why I suggested using Vaseline or such to coat the White plastic. and then stay away from the White by an ince or so ?
 
Third Rail said:
When I refinished one of my guns, I allowed the stripper to disolve the white spacer. After the stripper was done, I cleaned the gap, carefully masked it off and filled it with a black epoxy. I think it looks better than the white.
Click to expand...

There's a clever thought - I suppose you could colour the epoxy whatever you like. even do some wire inlay
 
Use a proper painters tape as well and you’ll reduce the risk of stripper creeping underneath, if you have any autobody paint/supply shops close buy look for auto paint specific masking tapes. FBS makes both crepe and vinyl masking tapes that don’t allow paint bleed if you use it right, clean and degrease the area first. I usually use windex and the isopropyl to pre and clean before masking, no issues with bleeding under the tape. Regular masking tape will soak up and absorb, painters tape won’t generally. Even the blue 3M painters tape at the big box stores will work better than plain masking tape.
 
Good post.
The masking tape in the example I posted was regular masking tape and the area was prepped with water. There was no creeping or bleed through. However, I did not eave the stripper on any longer than necessary and that might have been a significant factor.
 
wasrupzuk said:
So I’m in the process of refinishing one of my wood stocks.
Step 1 is to strip the old finish, after reading enough threads recommending 1850 I figured I’ll use that.
This stock has white line plastic spacers in the fore end and pistol grip that are glued in/laminated between the wood bits which are non-removable.
I noticed on the stripper instructions it said don’t use it on plastic…every other stripper I looked at said the same thing.
My question;
Should I be worried about the stripper damaging this plastic or is it just a catch all on the can and don’t worry about it for this type of plastic or, if the threat is real what should I use to protect it while stripping?
I was thinking vinyl pinstripe tape but that’s a plastic too.
Any tips are greatly appreciated,
Thanks
Click to expand...

How is the stock finished now? If it's a rubbed-oil finish (like most rifle stocks are), then C1850 isn't the right product anyway. C1850 is for varnish, shellac, urethane, lacquer, etc.

P.S. There's not really anything you can do to save that spacer if you're using furniture stripper. I say just let it dissolve. Pull the ebony / rosewood tip off and put a new spacer in there. .... or better yet, don't. epoxy it all back together or fill the outer edges of the gap with tinted epoxy, steam out the dents, sand (don't go too fine), stain, oil, enjoy.

I like tung oil cut 50/50 with mineral spirits. Boiled Linseed works good too. After the first coat, don't cut it anymore. rub it in with your fingers in very very light coats - generate some heat and build up your layers over a few days. You'll have a really nice and durable satin finish.

Good luck!
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom