Stoning 10/22 hammer, Angle vs Depth

one_civic

one_civic

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So I've decided to stone my 10/22 hammer, I know, I know, this has been talked about to death even on rimfire central.

Just wanted some opinion's on what most people prefer, to change the angle of the hammer notch or reduce the depth. I'm not talking about changing anything to the sear, just the hammer.

The way I see it is that if you reduce the depth too much and the sear won't catch, you can always add more depth by stoning the opposite side.

If you change the angle and the sear won't catch than you pretty much have to buy a new hammer. Worse case scenario you go ahead and buy a new target hammer kit off Hical for 50$,
Everybody wins.

Just can't stand that I have a new GM S.S. barrel and the trigger pull weight is taking my target off center.

And just so everyone know's I already polished the whole trigger group silky smooth.

So what are everyone's opinions, personally I would rather reduce the depth and measure it with a vernier caliper than change the angle.
 
Have you considered adding a small piece of shim material to take-up the pretravel instead? It's been a while since I had a good look at my 10/22s trigger group but I seem to remember thinking that was a viable option. I believe when I looked at it I was considering adding it onto the sear but it would work on the hammer as well.

-Grant
 
Why not buy a target hammer and sear and then not have to worry about messing it up and have a better chance of good results? Or at least have the parts on stand by just in case. My understanding is that results from stoning are less than consistent even when done by the same person. Something about inconsistent geometry on the stock Ruger parts...
 
I understand that most hammer's and sear's will vary depending on wear and inconsistency's from the factory, I am a licensed mechanic and am not scared of screwing the hammer up. like I said worse case scenario I buy a target hammer from hical. I would like to try this on my own and am just wondering what most of the DIY's have done. I don't want to spend the money if I don't have to and would be pleased if I could even bring the trigger pull down by half. Like I said, I don't want to really change the angles but would rather reduce the depth, seem's the safest route to go.

So who has done this and what were your results?
 
There are instructions out there to heat the hammer near the notch, drill and tap for a set screw, then reheat and properly cool (reharden) the hammer. Install the set screw and adjust for sear engagement.

I haven't done it yet, but plan to.
 
Don't try to put a set screw in the new style sintered hammer. They become brittle and will break. The old style steel with the bushings it can be done on, but not the new one.
 
I fully support trying it yourself first, you have nothing to lose and knowledge to gain. I reduced the angle on mine a little at a time, testing often. I don't have a pull gauge but estimate it to be around 3-4 lbs. Its a plinking rifle so I was happy with that, I assume you may want to get down under 2.5 lbs.
 
I would be happy like you said supernova at 3-4 lbs. I was shooting my new savage mark 2 and my 10/22 last weekend and couldn't believe the difference. That was with the savage factory setting at 4 lbs. like you said it's a learning experience and worse that could happen would be to buy a new hammer. I actually found a really good website, thought I would share it

http://greatwestgunsmithing.com/videos.htm
 
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