strait lino type in 4570 smokless 500 gr loads

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coyoteshooter

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just wondering if that would be o k or should i mix it with ? I HAVE A GREATl load with lyman 2 but the bullet is flat nosed and its poor at 400 yds ...............i have 500 plain base to try and lots of lino any good input from people who actually know.....thanks for the read
 
DON'T WASTE LINOTYPE!!!!

:)

I add 10% of my diminishing supply of 50% linotype / 50% monotype to my stash of old COWW [Clip-on Wheel-weights].
Plus I water quench my bullets for 24 hours, right from the mould [dropped into a 5 gallon pail of water at the bottom of which is an old bath towel]. The nice thing about water-quenching is that I have not found that the bullets soften over time.

I've found that ACWW [air-cooled wheel weight] measure ~9-10 BHN while my alloy [90% COWW + 5% linotype + 5% monotype] water-quenched for 24 hours, DOUBLED in hardness.

I doubt that pure linotype would yield much higher, if any, hardness.

I do not size my bullets, rather shoot them as cast, after tumble lubing with xlox.
 
depending on the condition of the barrel the lino bullet might produce a bit more accuracy than a softer bullet, but keep in mind #2 alloy is not far from linotype in hardness. pure lino is also quite frangible even at low velocity, so not a good choice for hunting. I cooked up about a hundred lbs of lino but I am going to blend it with wheelweight alloy to reduce it to lyman #2 spec and water quench right after powdercoating. parting note is that a pure linotype bullet out of a flawless mold is almost gem like, bright and shiny with razor sharp edges and grooves. very easy to cast a perfect lino bullet even if you don't have years of experience.
 
I've tried straight linotype out of my 303. It went sstraight into a box of wet newsprint and other than losing the gascheck and lube, and having nice crisp rifling, i could have loaded them and fjired them again. I dont think i even lost any weight from them.
Super hard alloy that, if you run the numbers, is very expensive and you might ss well run store bought bullets.
Did it as an experiment and havent needed to shoot anything thst hard in any of my shooting and hunting
 
thanks for the reply from all......i had the idea to just try a few with the idea that very hard alloys would be closer to jacketed accuracy....i have been reading of the diff between lino and mono as a lot of my (lino) is not small letters but 3 and 4 inch by 3/16 bars that i am testing to see if both have similar b n ...........allso the lino bullets pull small amounts of metal from the center of the base ...the size of a pin head no matter how long before i cut the sprue ..i have sharpened thecutting edge of sprue plate wih little change i think its the hardness almost breaking a bit of the bullet out or off the base ......never had thet with softer mix.........im going to compare wieghts ........i will inform all of the test results ...don
 
coyoteshooter said:
thanks for the reply from all......i had the idea to just try a few with the idea that very hard alloys would be closer to jacketed accuracy....i have been reading of the diff between lino and mono as a lot of my (lino) is not small letters but 3 and 4 inch by 3/16 bars that i am testing to see if both have similar b n ...........allso the lino bullets pull small amounts of metal from the center of the base ...the size of a pin head no matter how long before i cut the sprue ..i have sharpened thecutting edge of sprue plate wih little change i think its the hardness almost breaking a bit of the bullet out or off the base ......never had thet with softer mix.........im going to compare wieghts ........i will inform all of the test results ...don
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if you are getting a bit of shrinkage in the base of the bullet there may be voids inside the core that you can't see but could give you fits with flyers and wild groups. turn the heat down on your pot until the melt feels a little more viscous. use a thermometer and watch the temp very carefully as high tin alloy goes eutectic very quickly. moral of the story is run just enough heat to keep the alloy filling the mold and enough to keep it stable if you are tossing the sprue back in the pot as you are casting. high tin alloys melt at a much lower temp than high lead alloys. you can make a lot of changes to a cast bullet by playing with the temp of the alloy in the pot. welcome to the casting rabbit hole.
 
Give the straight linotype a try and see for yourself. (That’s why we do what we do!) If you think it’s a waste, then that will be your own conclusion. As a point of interest , I like clean up the base of my cast bullets by filing off the spruce while spinning the bullet in a drill. And if you’re careful, you can ensure the bullets all have the same weight.
 
size and hardness both have a direct effect on accuracy, it's your duty to take a scientific aproach to both to find what works for you in that particulare firearm. my best accuracy has come from 22-25 BHN bullets, and i've been 3 thou over bore diameter in cases where the neck clearance allows me to be.
 
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