Stripped bolt
- Thread starter kekservative
- Start date
I've already went through the distributor. It would take them 2-3 months to get me a factory replacement. I'm just looking source it locally, and I doubt homedepot would have something like that.
- Location
- Western Manitoba
Need the information as requested in Post #2. For example, the action screws on most mausers are not very "standard" - 1/4" x 22 tpi, and the P14 and M1917 use 1/4" x 30 tpi - not likely to find them in many hardware stores? But, neither are metric sizes, either. And front one is different length than rear one. So, multiple lengths. Multiple head types. Those were my two "guesses" about what OP might need?? Maybe several dozen, perhaps several hundred, other sizes used at one time or another??
It's for Tavor X95. The two large screws that hold the top rail. Idk how that helps you, but there you go.
With that knowledge the prospective gunsmith (who may make you this 'bolt'), just has to figure out the size of that bolt and if he can make it...
If the bolts holding the top rail are the same size - measure the screw pitch... at least with that info some one might respond if they will make one...
I think you will be much farther ahead to simply order the factory part.
You have three options.
Take what's left of your screws to a local machine shop. If their machinists are up to snuff, they can make you a couple up. Won't be cheap.
Go to your local Fastenall store and see if they have something that matches the size and pitch of your bolts, which are likely screws.
The other option is to drill out and thread the holes they fit into for something more available and this could end up being the quickest/cheapest fix.
Definitely take down resale price.
Take what's left of your screws to a local machine shop. If their machinists are up to snuff, they can make you a couple up. Won't be cheap.
Go to your local Fastenall store and see if they have something that matches the size and pitch of your bolts, which are likely screws.
The other option is to drill out and thread the holes they fit into for something more available and this could end up being the quickest/cheapest fix.
Definitely take down resale price.
I already have a gunsmith removing it for me. I'm concerned about finding a replacement.
IF,your gunsmith choice is incapable of measuring the screw diameter & pitch & identify the length required & head type....he's a plumber/hack at best.
idk, I'll ask them
Stripped the head. I'm just going to go around hardware stores looking some something similar.
It's a cheese allen socket head, most likely metric. Likely M8 or something close.
Should I look for a particular metal type? It screws into the chamber block, so likely have to be able take much heat/cool cycling.
I expect that the first thing the 'smith will try would be to see if he could tap in a Torx bit, engaging what is left of the hex in the socket. The screw might turn out. Might also be re-usable.
Drilling the head off and then removing the remains of the screw might be the next step.
Once the screw is out, its diameter and thread pitch can be determined.
While the manufacturer might have gone with a unique used nowhere else on earth screw, in all likelihood it will be a metric socket head cap screw of a standard size. Should be entirely possible to obtain a commercial replacement. Might be necessary to trim the length. Hard part might be buying one screw, rather than a minimum quantity.
Drilling the head off and then removing the remains of the screw might be the next step.
Once the screw is out, its diameter and thread pitch can be determined.
While the manufacturer might have gone with a unique used nowhere else on earth screw, in all likelihood it will be a metric socket head cap screw of a standard size. Should be entirely possible to obtain a commercial replacement. Might be necessary to trim the length. Hard part might be buying one screw, rather than a minimum quantity.
maple_leaf_eh
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
If there is a plan for the offending part already, discuss replacing the 'College of Chinese Technical Standards and Exceptions' pitch and thread with something more recognizable. Metric or SAE are always better choices here in the West. FWIW, the Norinco M305 has odd threads that do not accept M14 or M1A parts.
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