Stripped bolt
- Thread starter kekservative
- Start date
Neat, I'll check it out
If you’re referring to part #16 in the manual, the two top rail screws, they are 4mm allen head, the threads are 10mm long under the head and are M5 x 0.80 thread and pitch.
SpaeNaur has heat treated alloy steel ones. SpaeNaur Part Number HK358-2039.
If possible, take an original screw with you and they will measure it to be sure.
SpaeNaur has heat treated alloy steel ones. SpaeNaur Part Number HK358-2039.
If possible, take an original screw with you and they will measure it to be sure.
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Very interesting. Where did you find this info? My manual only mentions 4mm allen key, nothing about thread pitch or length.
I’ve replaced these before for someone in the same predicament unknown to them thread locker was used and probably an Imperial key not quite the right fit. I’m pretty sure these are the screws I used as I have them marked in my SpaeNaur catalog. Bring one of your screws with you to be sure. Let us know how it works out. Hoping this helps you.
Well, I’m in Kitchener myself and not too far from SpaeNaur.
I’ll go pick up a few screws this week and send them to you. Seems like a long way for you to go. Happy to oblige.
In the meantime, can you take a caliper and measure across the threads to confirm they are indeed 5mm across the threads if you have one of the screws out.
I’ll go pick up a few screws this week and send them to you. Seems like a long way for you to go. Happy to oblige.
In the meantime, can you take a caliper and measure across the threads to confirm they are indeed 5mm across the threads if you have one of the screws out.
I cannot do that right now. The rifle (and the screws) are with the gunsmith in Hamilton to have the stripped one removed. I was hoping to have new screw ready when I get the rifle back.
It works out ok. Will drive to Hamilton to grab rifle once it's done, then up to Kitchener with the screw in hand. I appreciate the offer though.
It works out ok. Will drive to Hamilton to grab rifle once it's done, then up to Kitchener with the screw in hand. I appreciate the offer though.
- Location
- Western Manitoba
Might mention there is more than one "loctite" - I suspect this application wants the blue stuff that is removable - that is usually what Loctite 242 is - screw will not vibrate or come loose but can usually be unscrewed - versus the red stuff that you may as well consider permanent, without various commotion to ever remove the screw again. Similar stuff, in both colours, made by Permatex and others.
And you have a torque spec and a torque wrench to achieve that, right? Generally, more torque than called for will stretch the screw more than wanted, or strip out the female threads in the other part. Not enough torque might leave a wobbly connection, making shear-off more likely??
And you have a torque spec and a torque wrench to achieve that, right? Generally, more torque than called for will stretch the screw more than wanted, or strip out the female threads in the other part. Not enough torque might leave a wobbly connection, making shear-off more likely??
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Yes, the manual mentions Loctite 242, which I believe is blue.
- Location
- NOVA SCOTIA, CANADA
Post a pic showing the problem screw.
Do you have a set of Torx bits? Is there one that could be tapped into the socket?
If you can find one that will bite, hold a soldering iron to the head of the screw to soften any Loctite, then try to turn it out. If the Torx bit bites firmly, do you have an impact driver? This might break the screw loose.
Looking at the drawing above, it should be possible to drill out the head of the screw. If the screw socket stripped, it should be soft enough to drill. Use a bit that is slightly larger than the 5mm shank. Drill through until the head breaks loose, leaving only the shank. Don't drill the rail or rifle. The rail should then come off. There should be enough of the screw remaining to grab it with Vicegrips, and turn out the stump. If you try this be very careful to damage only the screw.
Once again. looking at the drawing, can you loosen the clamps holding the rail bases to the barrel? If the rail can be separated from the barrel, the whole screw could be drilled out with minimum risk of damaging anything else.
If you can find one that will bite, hold a soldering iron to the head of the screw to soften any Loctite, then try to turn it out. If the Torx bit bites firmly, do you have an impact driver? This might break the screw loose.
Looking at the drawing above, it should be possible to drill out the head of the screw. If the screw socket stripped, it should be soft enough to drill. Use a bit that is slightly larger than the 5mm shank. Drill through until the head breaks loose, leaving only the shank. Don't drill the rail or rifle. The rail should then come off. There should be enough of the screw remaining to grab it with Vicegrips, and turn out the stump. If you try this be very careful to damage only the screw.
Once again. looking at the drawing, can you loosen the clamps holding the rail bases to the barrel? If the rail can be separated from the barrel, the whole screw could be drilled out with minimum risk of damaging anything else.
I thought about drilling out method, then use dremel to cut a slot for a flat screwdriver. To be honest I'm scared to #### it up further. It's a 3k rifle....
If I can't find another gunsmith nearby to get this done gracefully, I'll just leave it as is.
The screw head is in flush. Cutting a slot for a flat screwdriver blade with a Dremel would be problematic. Might be possible to cut a slot with a tiny burr, running it like a little end mill across the head.
This isn't rocket science, but it does need someone with skill set to do the job without doing damage.
This isn't rocket science, but it does need someone with skill set to do the job without doing damage.
