Stripped bolt

No the head is sitting on top of a washer + thickness of the rail. Once rail is off, there should be plenty of stump left to cut into.
That said, I'm not going to risk it myself.
 
"plenty of stump" - you have the piece in hand, I do not - but your picture looks like your gunsmith has drilled into the screw (?) so, will not be a lot of "meat" to work with once the head is removed from that screw (?).
 
tiriaq said:
Do you have a set of Torx bits? Is there one that could be tapped into the socket?
If you can find one that will bite, hold a soldering iron to the head of the screw to soften any Loctite, then try to turn it out. If the Torx bit bites firmly, do you have an impact driver? This might break the screw loose.
Looking at the drawing above, it should be possible to drill out the head of the screw. If the screw socket stripped, it should be soft enough to drill. Use a bit that is slightly larger than the 5mm shank. Drill through until the head breaks loose, leaving only the shank. Don't drill the rail or rifle. The rail should then come off. There should be enough of the screw remaining to grab it with Vicegrips, and turn out the stump. If you try this be very careful to damage only the screw.
Once again. looking at the drawing, can you loosen the clamps holding the rail bases to the barrel? If the rail can be separated from the barrel, the whole screw could be drilled out with minimum risk of damaging anything else.
Click to expand...

Could also try using some JB weld on the sacrificial torx bit to give it some extra bite.
 
Potashminer said:
"plenty of stump" - you have the piece in hand, I do not - but your picture looks like your gunsmith has drilled into the screw (?) so, will not be a lot of "meat" to work with once the head is removed from that screw (?).
Click to expand...

No, it's just wider, not deeper than the intact screw.
 
Grind a slot in it with a small diameter cut off tool if you can get in there...

or drill larger and deeper until the head pops off... remove the other screw first and use it for measuring how deep and how wide you need to drill...
 
Re-reading Post #38 - and looking again at the sketch that you posted in Post #24. As if the "rail bases" come off by removing cap screws from the sides. Would leave just the rail base attached to the rail, by that screw. Gives you an opportunity to see the inside end of that screw hole - I assume that hole and the thread is straight through that rail base. Might be a place to dribble in a drop or two of penetrating oil? Let sit overnight at least? Instead of trying to handle the entire rifle while trying to remove that screw? I do not know what you have for tooling, but could easily enough set that rail into a vice - on your mill or even a good drill press - get centered on x and y planes - square on the z plane - use small centre drills to get started on the drill out - peck away and take out just the head, as mentioned. Of course, easiest if a Torx bit can be found that taps in tightly and gets enough bite to unscrew that screw?? I did have the fortunate occurrence trying to drill out a small screw, after head was removed - I believe the bit "caught" after a good portion of the inside diameter of that screw had been removed - and the whole thing just threaded on out - was a "through hole" with threads all the way. Maybe you can get lucky?
 
Update:

I tried another gunsmith. Dude at Double Tap Sports was able to remove the problem screw in about an hour, and gave me couple replacements that match the thread profile. Not without some cosmetic damage on the rail, but oh well, I can live with that.

CjhOEN1.jpg


And this is what the rifle looks like now with Manticore handguard and charging handle installed:

7U3YzdC.jpg
 
So, OP, I must say I am not sure what the point of this thread was. You had some high end, extraordinarily experienced gunsmiths trying to help ( not me!!) Your original post talked about "bolts" that hold your rifle together - then became about cap screws that attach the scope mount rail - now we have no idea how the issue was resolved - except it was done with "cosmetic damage" to the rail. Mostly, from my point of view, in my place in the bush in Western Manitoba, I learned, basically, not much... I am glad that you have your rifle back in action, I think.
 
Potashminer said:
So, OP, I must say I am not sure what the point of this thread was. You had some high end, extraordinarily experienced gunsmiths trying to help ( not me!!) Your original post talked about "bolts" that hold your rifle together - then became about cap screws that attach the scope mount rail - now we have no idea how the issue was resolved - except it was done with "cosmetic damage" to the rail. Mostly, from my point of view, in my place in the bush in Western Manitoba, I learned, basically, not much... I am glad that you have your rifle back in action, I think.
Click to expand...

There are two pictures in this thread of the problem and the aftermath. I don't know what else to tell you.
 
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