Stripped Hex Screw

texasjohn50

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While trying to remove the screw:cover to my striker block on my M&P CORE with the required O.05” hex screw, the screw stripped in the process. Any recommendations for a gunsmith or machinist in the GTA to remove the stripped screw?
 
The one nice thing about hex/Allen head bolts are, they easier to drill out because they are allready centered for a drill .You know that its softer metals ( because it striped out !) And should drill out easily if your center straight . Last Resort , then locking plyers heating and wiggling it back and forth a little by little so you don't snap it off !
Were pulling for ya !
 
It was a brand new hex wrench, a Wiha I special ordered, and definitely was the same shape as new after attempting to remove the hex screw. If the other recommendations don’t work, I’ll have to send it off to a gunsmith. Any recommendations for this type of work?
 
new wrench but is it rounded from the screw? if rounded grind it flat, take a center punch, lightly hit the screw with the center punch, it will displace metal and tighten the hex, when tight try turning the screw out
 
If heating up etc. does not work get yourself a removal tool, they really work.

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Give the stripped hex screw a couple of good taps with a punch and hammer, then go at it with a Torx as others have mentioned. Sometimes a quick hit unlocks what is a tight screw
 
Before getting more aggressive; clean and degrease the socket, put a dab of JB weld in there followed by a Torx socket. Let the JB harden and give it a try. If it does not work you can remove the epoxy easily, but I have had good luck with this.
 
It is a good idea with allan wrenches to check the fit before you start, if they don't fit the screw tight, get a different one, supplied allan wrenches that come with stuff are not that good ,I fine at times
 
There are a couple tricks I use.

Torx tip, and a hammer, is one of the first, usually. Find the largest that will just fit in the stripped hole, and tap the driver tip in to the mangled socket with a small hammer. Leave it there, and carefully put the driver socket on to it, apply pressure to keep it from camming out. Usually works. Driving the tip in makes it fit the screw head very closely, and the shock often helps to break loose the locking compound, if there is any. Small hammer! 2-4 oz hammer head, tap tap tap!

Applying some grip compound can sometimes help considerably. They sell small tubes of the stuff but a can of valve grinding compound will last tree lifetimes.

Make nice with your Dentist and see if he or she has any old carbide dental burrs that are never going to be used. A Dremel Tool is nowhere near as fast turning as a dental handpiece, but you can use the burr to carve out the corners of the socket to fit a larger size driver tip. Or carve a slot, for a slot tip, or simply remove the head of the screw. They can be used to cut out pieces of broken taps too.

Buy quality screws to replace ALL the ones that are there, to avoid the repeat of the game.
 
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