Stripped screws on SR ...HELP!!

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CDCarts

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Because im an animal with the screw driver..

I managed to strip, not one but two of those little torx screws that hold down the SR flat top rail.

These ones...
SR22arrows.jpg


Now I know these need to be tight because this is what your scope mounts to,

HOW SHOULD I REPAIR THEM??
 
Best bet, drill them out and extract them if you can.

If not, drill them completely out and thread the holes again for a slightly larger screw?
 
That seems like the most reasonable solution.

Has anyone else had this experience?

Is there something I can do so that I don't have to unscrew that top rail everytime I take the thing apart?.. It seems the SR won't slide out of its shell unless the top rail is removed.
 
I too am a ham-fisted basher, and I have stripped more than a few screws in my time of all shapes and colours.

Go to Crappy Tire and buy the "Grabbit" set. It's like a little reverse action drill bit. First you bore out the screw head a little, then attach the grabbit and let 'er rip. The threads, being in the opposite direction, sink into the bored out screw head and bite hard while turning the screw in the proper direction to loosen it. I've never faced a stripped (or even broken) head that I couldn't remedy with this.
 
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Choices are to go oversize on the screw, redrill and tap. Drill out rail to fit larger screws.

Other option, install some sort of threaded inserts into the receiver and continue with the old screw size.
 
CDCarts said:
That seems like the most reasonable solution.

Has anyone else had this experience?

Is there something I can do so that I don't have to unscrew that top rail everytime I take the thing apart?.. It seems the SR won't slide out of its shell unless the top rail is removed.
Click to expand...

Contrary to the Ruger manual the top rail does not have to be removed to take down an SR22.

Once the hand guard and the take down screw is removed, a slight pry between the barrel and the main housing will split the two apart. Done it several times with no issue.
 
If you are taking it apart to clean it, try using a dry film lube instead. My 10-22 now goes for a very long interval without gumming up by using a dry film lube instead of oil on the bolt / receiver.
 
I'm using a graphite based dry film lube. Some people are telling me that because the USAF shuns the use of it on aluminum because of corrossion problems, that I shouldn't use it on a gun. I'm using it and its working fine after over a year's use without any gumming or increase in friction. There are teflon based dry film lubes as well. Look at a hardware store. This isn't a high load application. I used to use G96 spray,but that picked up crud from the powder and jammed it up after a couple hundred rounds. This dry film is way better.
 
CDCarts said:
That seems like the most reasonable solution.

Has anyone else had this experience?

Is there something I can do so that I don't have to unscrew that top rail everytime I take the thing apart?.. It seems the SR won't slide out of its shell unless the top rail is removed.
Click to expand...

I had the same thing happen to me last year on the very day I took it shooting for the first time. It took very little to strip the threads in the receiver. In my case, the scope rail was very loose to begin with and certainly wasn't properly secure into the receiver. When I tightened the bolts it took no effort to strip the receiver. Upon inspection, I could see where the rail wasn't making complete contact with the receiver as there were contact spots on the front of the receiver but not the rear. This no doubt contributed to the situation.

The whole incident put me off entirely on my SR-22 and I haven't had the desire to even want to bother getting it fixed. I had reservations about buying one to begin with and I should have listened to my gut instinct.
 
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