Stripped torx screws

Onagoth

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I'm having a lot of trouble getting the torx screws off my JP handguard on my AR15....any thoughts? They are loctited on. I hit it with the heat gun and tried a penetrating lubricant, still no luck.

I've partially stripped 2-3 of them. Thinking of getting the micro grabbits from Can tire for damaged screw removal.

Thanks,
 
Find an Allen wrench that is just a bit too big and drive it into the head with a hammer. There are lots of low quality screws around and I have had torx that no torx wrench fits properly. Replace them with Allen screws and decide if they really need loctite. Should mention as well that these things are easy to drill the heads off, get it apart and then use vise grips on whats left.
 
Should mention as well that these things are easy to drill the heads off, get it apart and then use vise grips on whats left.

When Drilling, I use a left hand drill bit, most of the time, they come out prior to the head popping off. Left hand drill bits are a lifesaver for screw extraction.
 
I've used a product called "screw grab" or something similar that Lee Valley sells. I believe it is valve lapping compound but the grit that is in the mix allows for a worn head to get the friction it needs with the driver.

Maybe try a micro torch with a piece of copper wire or something similar conducting the heat directly to the screw to weaken the adhesive.

Yukon, where's a good source for left hand bits?
 
Provided there's enough surrounding metal, turn the gun upside down and heat the screw head with a Bic lighter.Try them before they cool.Don't laugh it works.Harold
 
If you can get your hands on left twist bits they are truly the best item in your arsenal for really stubborn extractions. Both Snap on and Mac tools have them,@$80. for a set.
Soldering iron is almost the perfect temp for Loctite and precision control of heat dispersion with little to no damage on surrounding area.
 
Any machine tool supplier can sell you LH drill bits for a couple bucks.

Buy a couple of a few different appropriate sizes to fit your needs.

CTire sells a set of screw extractors that are meant to be used in a similar manner, that look a lot like a backwards countersink. Them and LH bits require a drill that will run in reverse, without the chuck getting loose. Only ever seen one drill press that would run in reverse, which would be an ideal machine to use, if you could. A drill press can be used to hold pressure and keep alignment on a screwdriver tip in a screw while you turn the screw back, to keep it from camming out.

I have used a small hammer to tap a driver tip in to the mangled remains of a screw on many occasions. Drive the tip in, then put the adapter on it carefully, so as to not move the tip from the screw, apply lots of pressure to keep the tip in the screw, and then slow torque to undo. Worked a lot of the time, and saved drilling the heads off or having to eze-out the screw.

Have also chopped down the ends of part worn driver tips to get to an unworn or lesser worn section, before driving that into the screw.

Yep, even resorted to finding the closest 'too big' screwdriver tip and driving it in to the screw head in some cases.

Cheers
Trev
 
Well...finally got those damn screws out....all six of them.

After stripping 75% of the material from the heads, I headed out to canadian tire and bought a easy-out, grabbit kit. Using a drill, lots of pressure and a very slow speed I broke the seal on all the screws. While I was out getting the grabbits, I used some penetrating oil on the screw heads as well.

What a #####...very annoying. I will try the left handed bits one day,
 
I use a Weller soldering iron, that I can turn up to 800F

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I tried using a pos soldering iron, did nothing. The heat gun I have actually got everything nice and hot, but still wasn't enough
 
No Loctite is the answer...

I always use butane or propane flame for heat. A heat gun is just too slow if it ever gets hot enough.
 
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