Stripping an older BAR

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4ptbuck

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Does anybody know how to strip an older BAR?
I've got the manual, but there are a few discrepencies.

I got the forearm off, action guides, and guide arms.
How do you remove the gas cylinder, the manual say wrench, but all I see it a slotted cap.

Also how do you drop the trigger?
Do you need to remove the stock to expose a hidden screw?

Also, to remove the bolt, does the barrel need to be removed? How's that done?

Thanks for any help.

4pts...
 
You need to remove the stock to strip the action. If you can't figure it out after that you are in trouble...

A little tricky assembling and you will find out why when you do it.....
 
As Dennis said, you need to know how it was put together before you can take it apart.
Generally for the gas tube, a 5/8 wrench is used. Before you go nuts with a screwdriver, check to see if there are flats on the side of the cap.
To remove the trigger, the buttstock does have to come off. If there is a recoil pad, check closely, you will see tiny slits where the screws were put through (they can be either slotted or phillips). Remove the buttstock and look inside the stock-bolt hole with a flashlight. Make sure that the long screwdriver slot engages the slot on the stock-bolt. If you don't, the screwdriver will punch through the side of your stock.
Once the buttstock is off, you will see an aluminum or steel hanger in a milled slot in the steel receiver. Push it up and forward, you should be able to remove it from the rear. If not, push it to the top of the receiver as high as you can. Slowly pull the trigger assembly to the rear (you may have to push down on the hammer if you couldn't remove the hanger). Once this is clear of the receiver, push the dust cover forward so that you can see the hook underneath the charging handle. This has to be lifted up while pushing forward on the c/handle to disengage it from the slot. It should lift clear of the slot in the bolt and dust cover. With this done, remove the bolt. (Check the condition of the timing latch in the side of the bolt while it's out, this is the cause of a lot of jamming problems).
Once you've done this a few times, it gets easy.
Good luck,
Chris
 
Thanks for the help.

On the gas tube, there are flats on the side closer to the receiver. I believe the part I need to remove first is the part closer to the muzzle. This part doesn't have flats, just a slot. I put a screwdriver to it, and it's not moving without great force.

I kinda figured that the trigger removal would encompass removing the stock. I just didn't have that long of a flat screwdriver. Didn't think it'll be as complicated as explained though. Guess I'll need to purchase a long shank screwdriver.

So explain what a good timing latch looks like. Or are you just suggesting a good cleaning.

thanks
 
Pretty brave, taking apart a BAR without someone there who knows helping you, and without a decent set of instructions..
I was going to do a detail strip a BPS ..figured it would be as easy as an 870...
I was wrong and stopped 5 minutes into the job.
 
A good timing latch isn't peened from the bolt and bolt carrier. This part is on the left side of the bolt and almost looks like a paddle with a hole in one end for the retaining pin.
This part doesn't have flats, just a slot. I put a screwdriver to it, and it's not moving without great force.
Click to expand...
Most of the BAR's have a washer, with serations on it, to prevent the gas port cap from coming off. You may have to use a penetrating fluid to get rid of the powder cake buildup.
You failed to mention calibre of the rifle you're working on. Magnums are harder on timing latches than regular calibres.
A good cleaning would be a great idea!
 
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Ok, I bought a 12" screwdriver and got the butstock off.
trigger came out no problem.

Now I can take the charging handle out.
I don't see any dustcover, and I can't tell how it is secured in.

Also, still can't figure out the gas port. There is no excesive build up of crud.
I see a serated washer below the 'cap' with the slot in it. Is this what I am supposed to take off. If I remove it, it will move towards the muzzle. As well, there is a part with 2 flats, but it faces the other way, and if I was to take that off it would move towards the receiver.

Oh, and it's chambered in one of the best, the good old 30-06.

thanks
4pts
 
The cap comes off towards the muzzle. Once this is off, the gas piston is inside and should come out towards the muzzle as well. You may have to take the spring guide off (spring and block as well) to relieve the tension. That way, you can tap the piston out of it's recess in the gas block, carefully(there should be a small roll pin inside the front area (toward receiver) of the g-block that rides in a cut in the piston).
 
I was afraid of that.
I don't think there's any way for me to remove the cap.
Not sure why, but my cap doesn't have flats for a wrench. Just a slot for a screwdriver.

I've got a good fitting screwdriver, but can't put enough torque on it to loosen it. Any more, and I'll strip the screw head.

Oh well. 95% detailed and cleaned.

Thanks for all your help.
 
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