Stubborn Rem-1100 stock nut. Pics added on page 3

Rust is the theme of this project..... I’ve had this thing over a year now, the action was stuck shut and the barrel would not budge.
I got the bolt free with a Kroil soak and a dowel down the barrel but the barrel would NOT come off.

I soaked the extension for days in Kroil from both directions, barrel up and down and heated it up. With the barrel clamped in a padded vice and the mag tube cap on I whacked it with a dead blow on a 2x4.
It didn’t budge so I left it.
1 year later I decided even if I shear the extension I’m getting that barrel off!!
Back in the vice with 4lb dead blow and 2x4 I gave her the good news 4 or 5 times and it budged!! Very little but it did!
I kept going and loosened the cap as I went and I was eventually able to pull the action down and free.
I figured it was hopeless when I saw that cylinder but the more I work on it the more encouraged I get that it just might function again.
I see no structural pitting that would lead to a kaboom so I’m determined to get it running again.









THERE’s A PISTON, SEAL AND O-RING IN THERE!!!









Little bit of work done so far





More to come!
 
Last edited:
Wow. That’s extreme. Sure he didn’t put it in the dishwasher?

I’d dump the whole lot in a tub of Evaporust and get it parkerized.
 
FWIW there is a guy on youtube that restores guns and he boils the parts for a couple of hours in water which apparently "converts the rust to something like bluing which is then wire wheeled off. It seemed an interesting process with little risk of damage to anything if tried,
 
Wow. That’s extreme. Sure he didn’t put it in the dishwasher?

I’d dump the whole lot in a tub of Evaporust and get it parkerized.

I’m going to make up a solution of phosphoric acid, I already dunked the smaller parts in coke to see how it would work and it took about 75-80% of the rust off.
I can make up 20 gallons of a solution similar to or just slightly more acidic than cola for under $10 and is safe for me and the environment.

Parkerizing crossed my mind and I am already setup for it but I’m going to give a KG Gunkote finish in a semi gloss black.
 
FWIW there is a guy on youtube that restores guns and he boils the parts for a couple of hours in water which apparently "converts the rust to something like bluing which is then wire wheeled off. It seemed an interesting process with little risk of damage to anything if tried,

I think you are referring to electrolysis?? There’s a little more to it than boiling in water but not much more and I’m currently toying with that as well.
BUT! Like you said, the process turns the red rust black then needs cleaning off, phosphoric acid will remove the red rust and leave the metal bare and shiny. This is where I want to be to start the process of cleaning up the pitting.
 
You've done well to get it apart without wrecking anything and it looks to be cleaning up pretty good!

Thank you sir!
I’m truly surprised I didn’t damage anything given how much I was abusing it :/

Testament to old manufacturing processes I guess!
 
I did finally manage to get the butt stock off!!



Took a LOT of force!! I thought the nut turned at first but it was just my tool twisting!! I went at it again with all I had and SNAP!!! I thought for sure the tool had broken but no!! The nut turned!!

 
I think you are referring to electrolysis?? There’s a little more to it than boiling in water but not much more and I’m currently toying with that as well.
BUT! Like you said, the process turns the red rust black then needs cleaning off, phosphoric acid will remove the red rust and leave the metal bare and shiny. This is where I want to be to start the process of cleaning up the pitting.

There are 2 types of iron oxide, ferrous oxide and ferric oxide, one is good old red rust and the other is a black oxide formed during rust bluing. Apparently according to this fellow (Anvil) boiling rusted parts converts the red rust to the black oxide . There are no electrolytes or power sources as in electrloysis just boiling water.
 
There are 2 types of iron oxide, ferrous oxide and ferric oxide, one is good old red rust and the other is a black oxide formed during rust bluing. Apparently according to this fellow (Anvil) boiling rusted parts converts the red rust to the black oxide . There are no electrolytes or power sources as in electrloysis just boiling water.

I see Ok thanks for that!
 
There are hex nuts available to replace the original stock nuts on the 1100. Makes it a lot easier to remove, I replaced one last year that the head was split on, shotgun was in similar condition to yours, and the nut was seized on really bad. Ended up cracking the stock going at it aggressively with a 4 way wheel wrench one day after soaking it a long time in kroil. Never thought of trying a spade bit, good idea.
 
There are hex nuts available to replace the original stock nuts on the 1100. Makes it a lot easier to remove, I replaced one last year that the head was split on, shotgun was in similar condition to yours, and the nut was seized on really bad. Ended up cracking the stock going at it aggressively with a 4 way wheel wrench one day after soaking it a long time in kroil. Never thought of trying a spade bit, good idea.

A hex would be so much better!
I’ll look into that thanks.

Sounds like the spade wouldn’t have helped you anyway! Yours sounds like it was stuck a lot worse than mine and as you can see by the picture above, I was testing the limits of that spades integrity as it was!
 
There are hex nuts available to replace the original stock nuts on the 1100. Makes it a lot easier to remove, I replaced one last year that the head was split on, shotgun was in similar condition to yours, and the nut was seized on really bad. Ended up cracking the stock going at it aggressively with a 4 way wheel wrench one day after soaking it a long time in kroil. Never thought of trying a spade bit, good idea.
Where did you find the hex nut ?
 
Back
Top Bottom