Stuck Bullet in my SMG

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Help please:

BRS-99, 124 g copper plated 9 mm Frontier bullet lodged about 1" up in barrel. Had a very low powder charge due to issue with my reloading press.

I applied oil to the bullet, and tried to drive it out with a wooden dowel. Thought the easiest path would be backwards towards the chamber.

After repeated hammer blows, the dowel broke off at the crown. I continued with another piece of dowel, and that broke, too.

The bullet has not moved at all.

Any ideas?
 
You need a brass rod. :)

I keep a few sizes for different calibers in my bag for just such predicaments.
 
Use a transfer punch. It will set in the centre of the bullet and a brass drift to extended it in the barrel (as so you don't damage the barrel) ..nail the ####er out with a good amount of force...it will come out eventually. I get this all the time when i let my wife help me reload. Use a pound and a half ball peen. Put the muzzle on some wood on a solid surface.
 
most canadian tires usually have a "metal section" ie2ft/2ft display case with ready rod, angle iron, barstock and roundstock and some tube.

id try there first, and as for the direction id hammer it? id go with the path of least resistance, back towards the chamber, though ive never had to do that before. just seems to make more sence to drive it 2" rather then 20"
 
If you wrap a dozen layers or so (or just enough to let the rod slide down the bore) of PVC tape around the rod just above where it will it contact the stuck bullet, that will keep the rod centred. A half dozen wraps or so where the rod would contact the bore at the muzzle will prevent the rod from contacting the bore.
 
Here is what I do if the bullet is close to the chamber. Load a case with a 3/4 load of powder, and insert into chamber carefully, with gun aimed up. Close bolt and shoot the bullet out.

Done this many times.

Note: The case has powder but no bullet!!!
 
i've had a similar sutuation- use a 5/16ths diameter.(.3125) but under 3/8th rod- closer to 11/32s ( .343) if you can get it- a wrap of electricians tape will snug it to almost bore size- then use a brass hammer and tap it out
 
i've had a similar sutuation- use a 5/16ths diameter.(.3125) but under 3/8th rod- closer to 11/32s ( .343) if you can get it- a wrap of electricians tape will snug it to almost bore size- then use a brass hammer and tap it out- always backwards towards the chamber- these things usually stick in the first few inches just ahead if the chamber
 
I loaded a bad batch of reloads with my press in 9MM. God ole Glock 19 was spitting them out at 200FPS sometimes. Anyways, I got a whole bunch of squibs. Not a big deal, had my 5/16ths or whatnot brass rod and punched them out right after.

Once I said #### it and put then gun away. Big mistake. The barrel cooled and shrunk around the bullet. I tried oil and whacking with a hammer but no dice. I had to take my torch and heat up the barrel to warm it up to get the CMJ out.

Still working on pulling that batch of 1000.... :(
 
Here is what I do if the bullet is close to the chamber. Load a case with a 3/4 load of powder, and insert into chamber carefully, with gun aimed up. Close bolt and shoot the bullet out.

Done this many times.

Note: The case has powder but no bullet!!!

My system is similar to yours but can be done indoors. Fill up the space in the barrel behind the bullet with water and fire a primer over it. Depending on the length of your barrel it may take several applications. A 4" revolver or a 5" pistol could be cleared with one or two primers. Water is not compressible, so it acts as a solid rod without the possibility of harming the barrel. There is little noise, a bit of smoke and if you have some soft material for the bullet to fall into it won't dent a hardwood floor.
 
stick with a squib rod idea as the risk of a ring in the barrel from using case and powder is too great to risk imo.

What would be the difference of gas pressure acting on a bullet stuck in the barrel or one that is seated tight to the lands. It makes no difference and cannot ring the barrel, the bore length behind the bullet is now effectively a long chamber. This is not the same as firing a loaded round behind the stuck bullet.
 
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stick with a squib rod idea as the risk of a ring in the barrel or worse from using case and powder is too great to risk imo.


I agree. Push it out with a rod. The pressure will definitely spike in areas where its not designed to do so.
 
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I agree. Push it out with a rod. The pressure will definitely spike in areas where its not designed to do so.

Because there is no gas port on a blowback type action, where the pressure from a reduced charges spikes in the barrel makes little difference. However, driving the bullet out with the pressure generated by a primer fired above a column of water eliminates the more likely damage that could be caused by driving a metal rod into the bore, or to the damage to the crown of the barrel as it bounces against the surface you've placed it against as you drive the bullet out.
 
No offence, but I don't know, :) seems like quite the production for just a squib. But next time somebody gets a squib at a match, I'll mention the water column and the primed case idea ... I'll let you know if they beat me up and take my gear away. :D
 
have you ever seen what happens to a muzzle loader when you dont ram the ball all the way to the bottom. a nice ring appears behind the bullet
 
jesus, just use a squib rod, get a piece of copper/brass rod slightly smaller than the size of your barrel. insert from the MUZZLE end and drift it out back toward the chamber. Do not use a primed case, or slightly charged case. these are all sure ways to get a ring in your barrel, and that includes using water in there. if you can't get it out that way, take it to a smith. other ways to do it include boring the bullet out (carefully duh) but leaving enough for a squib rod to still engage. but that's something a smith should undertake, unless you have access to a nice milling machine setup.
 
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