Stuck case removal from a die

It is one thing to rip the rim off a stuck case.
It is an entirely different thing to rip the head off.
I don't understand how the OP ripped the head off.
But if there is nothing left to grab, removing the remainder of the case can be a challenge.
The trick is to do it without scratching or scoring the die.

I've had it happen when I wasn't paying enough attention to the brass, before inserting it into the resizing die.

Usually incipient case head separation is quite visible.

If the OP didn't notice the dull stretch ring or didn't know what he was seeing, that's how the whole head gets ripped off, even with proper lube.

Sounds like he may have been a bit stingy on lube???
 
I use both the Forster and RCBS stuck case kits.

The RCBS uses a drill and tap on the bottom of the case. Then you use a bolt and washer contraption to screw the case out of the die.

The Forster uses over size bolts to get the sizing ball back out and then rods to hammer the case out.

I much prefer the Forster and will always try that kit first.

The OP says the "HEAD" of the case was ripped away.
 
My initial suggestion was to toss it and buy a new one - a single die does not cost all that much - especially if you can get it from a 'junk' table .... then I re-read your post "Redding" sooooo yea - they can be expensive for sure.

Your best bet is sending it back as suggested, if they will do it free all you have to do is ship wait & not risk damaging the die. WIN!

If not; seeing as the entire head and not just rim (right?) is gone - an 'easy out' sounds like your best bet to remove it without damaging the die.
 
Thanks again for all your suggestions. The problem is solved. I sent my gunsmith a text message and took the die to him (Sunday morning!). He called me about an hour later to let me know I can pick up the die. He tapped the inside of the case and then gently tapped the tap it out from the opposite side. What he suggested to pay attention to: clean cases well before resizing (extracted case neck was not as clean as it should have been), and don't be stingy on lube. Also - clean dies well after using, disassemble and use a solvent. Excess lube inside a die will dry and in combination with other factors cause a stuck case. I usually do this but it's worth doing again before resizing to be sure. It was likely a combination of all of the above. I have been reloading for 35 years and never had this happen before. Dies are for a 375 H&H Improved (40 degree shoulder) so it's not easy to find a replacement. This afternoon, I used Brasso to polish the inside of the die and then cleaned it well. I also cleaned my cases individually in a drill press, it is much faster for me than tumbling since I usually reload about 20-30 at a time.
 
Don't be stingy on the lube but don't be too excessive on it either. Did that once, put too much on and I ended up with oil dents on the shoulder of the case. No big deal, the next firing removed the dents.
 
I may have to change to a different lube. I have been using Lee lubricant all these years. My 458 is very susceptible to dents in the cases with Lee, even a tiny amount.
 
I use the Imperial sizing die wax for just about all resizing- reloading, however recently i had better results using Hornady Unique Case Lube to resize 300 Weatherby back to 300 H&H.
 
When I didn't have money for brass and still don't, i would take 270 case's and resize to 257 in 1 pass using Imperial Sizing Wax and then trim with a small pipe cutter, also take 30-06 down to 25-06 the same way and fireform. Best wax ever made in my thought's.
 
I may have to change to a different lube. I have been using Lee lubricant all these years. My 458 is very susceptible to dents in the cases with Lee, even a tiny amount.

You also really need to clean the vent holes. That's why you're getting dents, plugged vent holes.

Lee sizing lube is good stuff, so are most of the lubes on the market.

A couple of folks here are raving about Imperial, it's great, better than most. I use RCBS, Imperial, Lee, Bonanza and a home made concoction using lanolin

None of them work as well as they should when the temps are to low. I crank up the heat in my shop, a couple of hours before I start reloading and take the lube into the house so it's viscosity is very low when applied.
 
Give Fluid Film a try. It is now my go-to lube and, yes, it is the lanolin based automotive undercoating. I use the liquid, but assume the aerosol sprayed on a pad would be as good.
 
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